Recent content by Tremelune

What are the chances there's one that will charge the battery to a specified voltage, then drain the battery to a specified voltage, and report the time/load that it took...that doesn't cost a grand? A big thing I'm hoping to avoid is babysitting. I go in search...

Good point about uniformity! I'm mostly wondering if I fried any of them during the various times they spit sparks at me... I'll take a look at battery capacity testers...I think that was the search term I was...searching for!

I have 48 2014 Leaf modules for a project, but I won't be using them all. Some of them have been used more than others, and I'd like to use the "best" of them. Is there a simple way to test each module for condition/strength/runtime? All cells have a reasonable 3.8-3.9V, but that doesn't tell...

My project is using a Nissan Leaf motor that I need to spin up to 10k RPM to get a car to 75mph. In order for the motor to reach 10k RPM, it needs 360V nominal. In order to reach 360V, I need 400 lb worth of Leaf battery. I would love to cut that pack in half (or more), as I don't need that much...

Yep, sorry—I suddenly witched to the EU definition of Low Voltage - 50-1000 VAC, 75-1500 VDC.

Thanks! My take-away is that everything is pretty much the same, but with "Low Voltage" (50-1000V AC, 75-1500V DC): - Use wire with sufficient insulation for the maximum expected voltage, regardless of current (or it might arc). - Amps are amps regardless of voltage, and that amperage...

I'm in the process of converting a Rover Mini to an EV using a Nissan Leaf. I'm at the point where I'll need to start doing some high voltage re-wiring to relocate the batteries and power module. I'm handy with crimpers and soldering irons, and I've worked with thick wiring for high-power 12V...