Recent content by twilloug

Yep figured I could do that if I need to. Found some on line just don’t know what one looks like on stock machine. Thank you for the description though. It sounds like that would work.

Got the escooter up and running. Now in need to find a kickstand for it. It is an older Currie Scoot-e scooter. New motor, controller, throttle and paint job. Need to find a kickstand for it. I took some photos of where the kickstand would go. Not sure which one I need and how it attaches...

Thx for the feedback. I got the chain figured out and operating good. Added an offset link. Now just have to figure out how to add spacer for battery space. The battery is about 1/2” too tall for compartment so cover doesn’t sit flush.

The tensioner is not spring loaded. It is just set in a position and tightened down. Before I shortened the chain I was able to push the tensioner to where it contacted the the chain on the wheel sprocket and chain was still not tight enough. With chain shortened one link, it is now too tight.

The picture shown has the tensioner installed correctly based on the responses here. You can see the see the slack in the chain is stop to much. The motor is fixed, the wheel axle location is fixed with the “tabbed” axle washers. So I tried removing a link from chain. Now it is too tight...

I compared the new and old motor sprockets. They appear to be same size. It is like the drive gear for new motor is in slightly different location.

I have an older Currie escooter. I replaced the motor with a 500 w motor and now the chain is too loose. I tried to take a link out and now it is way too tight without any chain tensioner. My question is whether the chain goes on the outside of the tensioner or between sprocket and tensioner...

Kind of old post but I did finally get the new bus installed and the battery appears to be good. Now I need to get chain adjusted so it is tight. Does chain go around tensioner or between tensioner and sprocket?

The Escooter has been on the back burner for a while. Got back to getting it running. I have not replaced the bms on the battery yet but i did some more testing. The motor operates when the charger is plugged in and throttle applied. I also got the motor to operate without the charger...

Thanks again for all the responses. I don't need to go fast just want scooter to work. It sounds like i need a better battery rated for higher amps. Again i dont need to go full throttle all these time i just want it to work. Where is the best place to get such a battery?

Guys, so attached is a picture of my cells. Look to be 2.55 ah cells. Max dicharge current of 7650 mamps per cell. Not sure if grade b or a. I will snap a photo of scooter when i get home. I have more space in the battery compartment which i will show in photo.

Just to clarify, i bought the 500w motor and controller off ebay to replace the stock 300w motor/ controller combo that came on the unit. When tested the controller. Motor and new throttle with my battery it didnt work. I just bypassed the bms on battery because i was thinking the motor/...

Again thank you everyone for your comments. I did some research and the 18650 cells in my battery have a max continuous discharge current of 7650mA each. So with 4 in parallel, that would be a max of 30.6. So my 28amp motor and 30amp controller should be fine right. Note the cells are eve...

Thanks for all the great information. Looking at the 45 or 50 amp bms. I assume i need the seperate port configuration in lieu of common port. Does seperate port mean i get a 3 wire configuration with P-, C- and B-?

Sorry for all the questions but i think i am missing something. I believe the existing bms failed because it was only rated for 15 amps. So if i am going to replace it, wouldnt i want a 30 amp bms to match the 28 amp rated motor and 30 amp controller? I see a lot of 20 amp bms but wouldnt...