Recent content by wil

I haven't had any issues with it so far, although perhaps I can increase efficiency with a better connector. The copper pins don't look scorched, the tape that was holding it to the bike isn't distorted from heat and it didn't feel hot after a run (it's under a few layers of thick tape though)...

Absolutely! I've been running well above the rated power with no issues so far. I'm concerned that I will strip the gears from torque eventually, but that is a concern with any plastic geared motor. If looking at the Dillinger kit I would advise trying to get a torque sensor based system...

From where you are then those parts are just a press fit, so if it's too stuck you will need to essentially just pull harder unfortunately. The best bet would probably be a gear puller of some kind, and to carefully pull out the stator from the inside. You would need to be careful not to hit...

Looking at your picture closely I can see you still have the speed sensor visible through the cutout in the top case. On mine this was tied to the stator, and the stator stayed in the more inner half of shell when I separated the two halves of the wiring shell. Is the thing you are having...

They should be already as opened as you need. That piece you are holding is the top piece in the picture here with the wiring. I never got it physically as separated as you appear to have it because A: The wiring is potted to this top case B: The wiring is wired to the core wiring, which is...

Personally I would MUCH rather spend $20 and not have to deal with SMT assembly myself, I think offering partially populated is a great idea with these.

Update: Oil fill has started leaking 6 months post fill. It's leaking from both the wiring side, and from the case closure past the o-ring. Wiring side is worse than the case side. Good thing is that both these spots mean no oil gets on the disk.

It's out of scope of this project, but if you had a controller setup for USB C PD and ran power through a motor phase to use as a boost convertor you could have a nice little 100 watt charger available anywhere.

The G360 may have slightly less efficiency, BUT it comes with an O-ring seal on the case, and a very well potted wire exit. The brake mounting screw holes also are not drilled through to the internals meaning they are no longer a leak point. I have mine filled with 100ml ATF and haven't had a...

They definitely aren't scammers, I did get the correct motor from them, but they were absolutely pathetic/useless at the same time in regards to time and communication and your experience sound similar to mine with them.I got a spare set from Gomax when I ordered my motor, see if they will sell...

Hey top to bottom phase FETs again! I thought you went against that in the cheap FOCer because of induction concerns? Also is that a "4 layer" PCB made of two sandwiched PCBs I spy, or just a rendering thing?

Depends on your goals! Way too slow I think for me personally). I think mine would actually suit a 29er more than a 26" at the 75v I run so that at full speed it would be at a point with higher power available. This is the two at 52 volts in 29" wheels...

Mine is the slow, 260 rpm version. The 11t on the sim does seem to be a 330rpm @ 36v, so 9.16rpm/v. Bafang only seems to offer 260 or 420 rpm versions, and the supplier I bought from also only could offer those two. They are also rated at 36, 43, 48 volts. Plugging those numbers in, the ones...

I'm sure it already comes into your testing but as the G360 has the slightly inner set magnets + spacing between them would it not have a reluctance component to the torque and therefore require field weakening to hit peak efficiency values? Or does the rotor design not cause enough for it to...

Yeah, should be correct, I have exact tyre dimensions + the the controller shunt was measure and is not just an approximate guess. My bike is a mountain bike, but has a longer bar reach than normal, so I am more lent over than would be considered full upright. I didn't really think about it...