Recent content by wobble

Its got a red and green light to signal charging and full charge so i guess it can't be that bad, i paid £15 GBP for it. Some of the better chargers are much more than i'd like to pay, being around £30-40. Woop! Guess i wont need a new battery for a while if my charger chargers to 41 by...

The charger output when unloaded is 42.0V, and it doesnt get too hot to hold, it is quite warm however. I'd guess about 50 degrees C. I knew that i'd get more cycles like that but did'nt realise it would be double

I could check the cell group voltages, but i'd rather not remove and destroy the packaging. I do remember that all the cells were balanced at 3.6V when building it, and the battery has only gone though one complete cycle from 41.1V to 33V, followed by charging back to 40.9V. Yes, i'm using a BMS.

I recently built my own 10s4p ebike battery from LG M29 cells. The problem i have is that when fully charged it only reached 41.1V. Subsequently, after a full discharge (down to 33V cut off from controller) it not only reaches 40.9V after a full charge. I am using a cheap plastic brick charger...

Thank you for the help everybody. I now know that i have a torque issue. My 2500rpm motor wont be efficiently using current with my current gear ratio of 2:1. I must figure out a way of increasing the ratio to 10:1 to have a usable bike

I've ordered a wattmeter like this which will be delivered tomorrow, so hopefully i'll have some decent results to share

I think i've done it right, heres an image of the setting i used

Thanks I think ill get the Bayite display because it will be more appropriate. Im not totally sure my current readings are correct to be honest Connecting the multimeter in series with the motor and battery wouldnt start the motor at all

Okay. I was reluctant to believe this at first because I bought two of the same motors and they are both displaying the same behaviour. I guess the manufacturer is at fault. Would connecting the 26.7A rated motor to the battery capable of supplying 40A cause problems for the motor? Even if just...

Thanks for the help, i think i have it wired correctly now! I wish i could measure the actual current of the motor but i couldnt find any multi-meters which can read above 10/20A Everyone seems to think that this no-load current over 19A is suggesting a faulty motor as no-load current is...

I really appreciate all the help you guys are giving me, i dont know what i'd do without it! https://imgur.com/a/Fv4MjX5 thats a picture of my throttle connections (left) going into the controller (right) The voltage between the green and black varies from 0.8V (zero throttle rotation) to 3.6V...

I've tried my best to answer your questions: I measured the throttle voltage between two of the wires which go from the throttle to the controller 1. The throttle voltage at zero rotation is 4.4V 2. The throttle voltage at max rotation is 4.4V 3. The motor draws more current that i can read so...

So the throttle sohuld vary voltage and not current?

The throttle was about 4.4V and it is able to vary the speed of the motor. The seller of the controller had paired it with the throttle and sold the two together in a package deal.

The motor has never heated up, its the controller which is heating up. The controller is supplying over 19A of current to the motor in an unloaded state. The motor runs when connected to the battery, but im not able to test it loaded without it ripping the chain off of the sprocket instantly...