Magic Pie Conversion - Controller Failing?

It's likely the hall sensors as you've suspected. It *could* just be a poor connection between the controller and motor connectors though it would be worth testing the hall sensors before doing any work: https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf

Thanks for the reply. I don't suppose the internal controller module also contains the sensors..? It would be nice if I could "just" replace that.

Unfortunately no, the hall sensors (which basically tell the controller the position of the motor) are always located on the motor stator in a typical ebike motor. How did you run it in sensorless mode? I didn't think Magic Pie controllers could be swiched; or did you use a different controller?

magic pie internal controller failures are common, you should rule out the hall sensors and if they are working correctly i would consider running a more durable external controller

pwd said:

Unfortunately no, the hall sensors (which basically tell the controller the position of the motor) are always located on the motor stator in a typical ebike motor. How did you run it in sensorless mode? I didn't think Magic Pie controllers could be swiched; or did you use a different controller?

Click to expand...

I replied to this once, but don't see it now. Again, I didn't do anything: the controller just switched to sensorless mode on its own - with a slight boost in power and speed, and the only downside was having to 'nudge' the bike forward an inch to start moving.

How do I test the hall sensors? The "test" on the old e-scooters I used to ride was to switch to the backup hall leads, something I don't think is an option now.

LeftieBiker said:

I replied to this once, but don't see it now. Again, I didn't do anything: the controller just switched to sensorless mode on its own - with a slight boost in power and speed, and the only downside was having to 'nudge' the bike forward an inch to start moving.

How do I test the hall sensors? The "test" on the old e-scooters I used to ride was to switch to the backup hall leads, something I don't think is an option now.

Click to expand...

Check out the link in my initial reply.

+1 on the recommendation to check the hall sensor wiring connector to the board. Seems like they had trouble in the past with silicone caulk keeping it from making a good connection. Try cleaning it all out and retry. It's the BLACK 6 pin. (With only 5 used...)




If your nervous about testing the motor's hall sensors with full battery power involved, or want some more information on testing...
See this thread on how to bench test using your own 5vdc wall wort (or any other) supply, and 10K resistor.

Testing BLDC motor's Phase Wiring - Hall Sensors and Wiring. - Electricbike.com Ebike Forum






Regards,
T.C.

Thanks for the suggestions. However, my health is so poor now that a teardown, with no high chance of success, isn't in the cards. Instead, I'm going to install a 1500 watt DD rear wheel, with a 1k/1.5k controller and kit I picked up last Winter. If I have to R&R another rear wheel, I'm going with a new one, and one with more power.