Yep, the QS really as a lot of "unsprung" mass... :roll:
I think I give the bike a try as it is on 19" front and rear and later maybe have it re-laced to 24"DH and 18"MX here in Germany.
Possibly downgrading to a lighter motor.
I tried in vain with CNebikes and evelbike.
they said they cannot offer the big motors with cross patterns. I also tried pushing them to do 3x or 4x on their front wheel... nope. seems I am the only one asking them
I am looking for something that can take some beating offroad and fits the Enduro Ebike frame. The 17" looks nice and probably is a good choice on the road, but a cast wheel is not what I am after for this bike.
Thank you for your input I am more positive to try the radially laced option now.
it is a 273 in 19" wheel.
i guess there is no other way to lace it (or they could't find the right length spokes? :| )..
actually, i looks like they bent the spokes to force them in radial position.. :roll:
for me as a mechanical engineer it feels a very bad idea.
at heavy loading, jumping, or cornering.. i do not see a real issue, but a spoke is made and basically can only bear a force along its axis.
and in the rear there are torques in two directions (braking and accelleration) that must be...
it only happens sporadically when in the transition from coast. so it's still spinnng forward but i think it's braking a bit.
battery seems okay. the next seonds i can accellerate strongly (stronger than the request when the issue happened).
good info!
next time i will try what happens when i disconnect the display.
battey voltage (SOC) is good. it only happens when i apply the throttle bit. the motor delivers negative torque then.
maybe some setting is so off that i pull down battery voltage below what the display can handle. :shock:
Hey there,
I have a strange phenomenon with my Kunteng sine wave controller KT72SVPRKD-LCD + KT-LCD3 running on 72V and would be interested to hear your opinions.
Very sporadically when I reapply throttle from coast condition there is no power and the display goes blank. It feels like a short...
what is your experience riding the 24" bicycle front and 19" moto rear mix?
is the front really still larger in diameter than the rear?
I'm considering road tires of the same dimensions, but guess the rear will be quite stiff vs the bicycle tire.
slightly wider rear would actually be beneficial for cornering characteristics.
smaller diameter like 17" or 18" could make sense though if you don't need the clearance.
what was wrong and where did you source the frame?
here in china it's a rule that the front and rear wheel of everything cheap with two wheels must be comically misaligned.. :lol:
thank you.
that sounds like a special width. so it's similar to the leili frame in that respect. probably the room is necessary between the cranks to accommodate the wide frame and the batteries inside of it.
..no use for all the cranks that i have sitting around.. :roll:
looks very nice!
does this frame have a standard bottom bracket width (like 68mm?)?
i had too many bad experiences with the taper square type and would want to change it.
otherwise it's only the pages of batteryuniversity.com
..but that's general stuff. not answering my questions, such as how the battery's characteristics change after capacity is reduced due to the different wear mechanisms.
any more real experience with cheap taiwanese/chinese forks here?
my bomber z1 is losing oil and i think it's time to upgrade to DC with simple coil and oil sump (no cartridge!).
Hi there,
I would like to understand the mechanisms that age Li-Ion due to
- low voltage
- high voltage
- high temperature
and the results besides loss of capacity.
Any pointers to good online resources?