2018 Schwinn Hybrid 21 speed Model S2508WMC

jeteye

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Hello Everybody,

I have a like new bike and was wondering if it would be worth it to do a E-Bike Conversion. I live in the foothills of NC and am borderline disabled fighting neuropathy.
I was thinking along the lines of a 48-52 volt 20AH battery with a 1000 Watt rear hub motor. I notice a lot of the information is dated 5 to 7 years old. I weigh 270 lbs and would like a range of Aprox 60 miles. Is there an ebike up grade kit or should I just fork out the bucks for a new ebike? Is there an ebike recommendation thread?
Thanks in Advance.
 
Ready to roll ebikes won't likely be 1000W or 20ah - so a conversion could get you there likely for cheaper. That Schwinn mtb looks "OK" for conversion. The frame triangle has some battery space - I think these are 29er/700c wheels?

FYI, I would expect more like 30 mile range rather than 60 with that setup, unless you use assist very sparingly.
 
Ready to roll ebikes won't likely be 1000W or 20ah - so a conversion could get you there likely for cheaper. That Schwinn mtb looks "OK" for conversion. The frame triangle has some battery space - I think these are 29er/700c wheels?

FYI, I would expect more like 30 mile range rather than 60 with that setup, unless you use assist very sparingly.
The rear wheel is 28 X 1 5/8 X 1 1/2. It has a Shimano derailer and disc brake. Could I increase my battery size? Maybe Regen? Not sure how much real estate is available on the frame. I do have a rack on the back that might be used for more battery. At the end of the day I may never see 30 miles unless I am camping for the weekend.... Thanks for your input.
 
Regen would likely only help a bit. You can mount bigger or multiple batteries, of course, but the bike gets heavier. Battery range is tough to estimate as energy use is so variable. I had a 100w 9C style DD motor on a heavy bike, and using a 22ah battery, only ever saw about 30 mile range. Had I set the assist very low and pedaled a bunch, with few hill climbs, I could have done better.
 
Here's an idea if you need 30 mile range frequently, 60 mile range infrequently.

Get two identical batteries. If common hailong type with slide-in plug-in mounts it can be easy to swap out the battery for fresh one when required.
 
I have a like new bike and was wondering if it would be worth it to do a E-Bike Conversion. I live in the foothills of NC and am borderline disabled fighting neuropathy.
I was thinking along the lines of a 48-52 volt 20AH battery with a 1000 Watt rear hub motor. I notice a lot of the information is dated 5 to 7 years old. I weigh 270 lbs and would like a range of Aprox 60 miles.
What slopes do you deal with? Climbing hills will take a lot more power than riding on the flats, and more the higher the weight of the system, bike, and rider.

What speed do you want to go? Faster takes more power nonlinearly.

It's likely to take quite a large battery to go 60 miles. Commonly at 48v, going 20mph, on the flats with no wind, it would take around roughly half an Ah per mile, given no other unusual loading, or start/stop traffic, etc. That would be at least a 30Ah battery, with no hills at all. If you have hills, it could double that requirement easily, or more, to 50-60Ah or higher, which is a really big heavy battery. Even if you assume as little as half a pound per Ah, that's 30lbs of battery, or more...but it's more likely to be heavier than that, like 3/4pound per Ah or more, making it 45lbs+ . If it's only a 30Ah battery, at 48v that's 48 x 30 = 1440Wh. A 60Ah battery would then be 2880Wh. (Wh is better to use because it's more common to denote range / usage this way, in Wh/mile).

Some numbers (these only assume always riding uphill, which you won't be doing; you'll need to determine how many miles of uphills you have, vs on the flats, vs downhills, to actually determine battery size needed for range, and note that winds will increase power usage just as riding faster would, for the same reasons):

If we assume fairly steep slopes of 20%, and riding at as fast as the system will go up that slope, with 350lbs total weight (assuming a really big heavy battery and a large heavy DD hubmotor), it's going to take over 4kW of battery power (around 100A at 48v; a smaller controller won't even go up the hill in the simulator) to generate a bit more than 2kW of motor power just to go a bit more than 16mph, and it will melt a "1kW" hubmotor motor in less than a couple of minutes (will probably overheat the controller, too). This uses almost 300Wh/mile, which means 60 miles of this would take 60 x 300 = 18000Wh, which at 48v would be a 375Ah battery, and you would have to pull a trailer to carry that; it's not going to fit on a bicycle frame. So this isn't practical at all.

If yo'uve only got 10% slopes to deal with, then the same setup gets you a bit more than 23mph, only taking 3kW of battery power, only taking a 65A controller, overheating in just over 3 minutes, with only about 130Wh/mile battery usage that doubles the range.

If we take the system weight down with half the size of battery, call it 300lbs total rider/bike/system,and the controller down to 60A, you get about 23mph for only 3kW battery usage and 2kw motor power, overheating in 4 minutes, power usage dropping to 122wh/mile, range about 62 miles (if the motor didn't melt).

Dropping the slope to 5% power usage drops to over 2kw battery usage supplying oaver 1600w motor power, usage of almost 80wh/mile, range going up to almost 100miles with the 160Ah battery, speed going up to over 27mph.

All of the above assume full throttle all the time, too, so you will get better performance to varying degrees depending on the slope by using less than full throttle--but going too slow can end up heating the motor faster depending on conditions and motor / system setup.


A middrive that lets you shift gears depending on terrain/conditions to let the system stay closer to it's efficient zone will work in greatly varying conditions better than a hubmotor, for the same amount of power available, to keep a lighter system. It still takes a certain amount of motor power to do a task, so you can't get below however much it takes to do the job you need it to...but it may take less battery power because the system is more effiicient so your battery lasts longer.


You can use the simulator linked above to figure out the power required to do whatever job you have to have it do, and then you'll have a good guesstimate of the motor power required for that. Then that can be used to guesstimate battery power required, which along wiht the wh/mile guesstimate the simulator cna give you can be used to find out the batttery size and capabilities.
 
I couldn't locate the exact model, but your bike probably has a relatively light aluminum frame. IMO, you would be better served with a steel 26" bike (90's model, maybe) since the choice of conversion systems will be greater. There are threads in the review section that will help you, and the "1000w" direct drive motors haven't changed that much recently. Any YESCOM, Nine Continents, e-Bikeling direct drive motor should be adequate, but the most important item is the battery. The best course for someone new is to procure from a trusted supplier and em3ev would be my choice.
 
I stay away from frames with holes in the frame for cable routing, I had a top tube with holes in it for cable routing and when hanging a battery off the top tube, the top tube of the frame cracked after about 2 years. Batteries were a 36v 20ah and a 48v 15ah, to give you an idea of weight, in 18650 form and the newer larger format, 21700. I rode normally, normal curb hops, cracks in the path type stuff, no jumping.

Do what 2old stated, get an old frame for cheap and convert it, and stay away from the department store bicycle shaped junk.
 
Depending on where you reside there may be a plethora of 90's or so steel bikes for $100 - $200; one thing to consider is the later ones will have 27.2mm seat tubes. This doesn't sound important, but can be a factor if you decide to use a suspension seatpost down the line.
 
Depending on where you reside there may be a plethora of 90's or so steel bikes for $100 - $200; one thing to consider is the later ones will have 27.2mm seat tubes. This doesn't sound important, but can be a factor if you decide to use a suspension seatpost down the line.
Definitely sound advise.
 
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