[Advice] Please critique my planned build (250W conversion)

[Taco1991]

Hello,


Request
I am a newbie to electric bikes but I have a few thousand miles on my normal ones, so I am familiar w/ biking in general. I was hoping the group could provide insight to my first build - check compatibility, recommendations for improvements, etc... My goal is plan twice, buy once.

Background
I've tried the http://www.emazingbike.com/products/daedalus-72pv and it fit my needs perfectly. - Commuting - I pedal but want help on .5 mile 300 ft climb at the end of my commute. I don't want sweaty dress clothes. Total commute 3 miles one way. I don't care about top speed. As long as I can get up a hill wo/ sweating, I'm good.

My overall plan is to build two bicycles w/ the same specs for pedal assist
1. Novara Buzz
2. Cannondale Quick 6 Women's
Both have rear racks attached

My overall goal is minimal weight, and stealth and price

HUB
Planned Purchase: Q100C CST 36V350W Rear Driving E-Bike Motor Wheel - 201 RPM

• • http://www.bmsbattery.com/ebike-kits/617-250w350w-q-85100sx-motor-e-bike-kit.html

1. Planned location is rear. This should be better for:

• a. Hill climbing
  b. Torque breaking drop outs.
  c. Security, since I lock the back wheels

2. Geared - I do not want a direct drive

3. Security -Do locking axels exist? I currently use Pinhead skewer locks and would like something similar?

4. Torque - Do I need Torque arms for rears or am I being paranoid? The Novara is all steel and the Cannondale is aluminum w/ a front carbon fork aluminum dropouts (front and rear)

5. Cassette - Is Q100C the only 8 speed cassette option?

Battery & Control
Planned Purchase: Either Set
• 36V10Ah Right Off Bottle Battery Pack with Charger

• ○ http://www.bmsbattery.com/36v/571-bottle-ebike-battery.html

• 36V S06S Sine Wave Integrated Controller for New Bottle Case

• ○ http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/668-36v-s06p-integrated-controller-for-new-bottle-case.html

• ====OR=====
• 36V12.5Ah Bottle-09 E-Bike Battery & Charger

• ○ http://www.bmsbattery.com/36v/683-bottle-ebike-battery.html

• Sine Wave Controller for 09-Case

• ○ http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/698-sine-wave-controller-for-09-case.html

1. I like the idea of it being an all in one package.

• a. Volts: Any reason to go 24V?
  b. Controller: Do I want Sine wave or Torque simulator?

2. Rain

• a. Which one fair better in the weather. I plan to have the battery laying on the rack shelf/deck. If I get caught in the rain, what do I do?
  b. If I leave the bike outside and remove the batter can the holder survive weather?

Computer
Planned Purchase:
• S-LCD1 E-Bike LCD Meter

• ○ http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/548-s-led770-e-bike-led-meter.html

• ====OR=====
• S-LCD3 LCD Meter for S-Series Controllers

• ○ http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/670-s-led770-e-bike-led-meter.html

1. Better - Which done is a better display and why?
2. Theft - I'd prefer something that couldn't be easily stolen

Pedal Sensor
Planned Purchase:
• PAS--Pulse Padel Assistant Sensor With 12 PCS Magnets

• ○ http://www.bmsbattery.com/ebike-parts/504-pas-pulse-padel-assistant-sensor.html

• Mount - Both bikes have a triple
1. Can I mount it on the chain ring side?
2. How much space does it need?
3. Can I mount this on the non- chain ring side?

Brake cut off
Planned Purchase:
• HWBS - Hidden Wire Brake Sensor 1pcs

• ○ http://www.bmsbattery.com/accessory/459-hwbs-hidden-wire-brake-sensor.html

1. Is this needed? Do I have cruise control or something that would require it? Is it an extra kill switch if something goes wrong?
2. Any reason not to mount it on rear as it is the same location of the geared hub?

 

[mlt34]

Welcome to the forum and welcome to ebikes!

I'll try answer all those questions, there were quite a lot.

First of all that's a great motor, many people are very happy with it. If you want to use a casette, that's one of your only options. Good option though.

Axle locks aren't really common for hubmotors. The motors themselves are harder to steal since they don't have quick releases, but technically anyone with an adjustable wrench can take it off in 60 seconds or less. Standard advice is to always use two locks, with at least one going between the hub motor and the frame (and the locking object if possible).

Torque arms are not necessary with that motor @ 36v in a steel dropouts. If you've got an aluminum fork and want to go with a front motor then you can maybe get away without one but I wouldn't. Aluminum rear dropouts are still probably fine with that motor. It comes with torque washers that act like mini torque arms. @ 36V and 15A controller you'll never see more than 500 watts with that motor, and if you're pedaling then you'll see a lot less.

http://www.bmsbattery.com/36v/567-bottle-ebike-battery-controller.html this battery has the integrated controller you'll want (get the S06S, not the S06P) and has more battery than you'll need, especially if you're pedaling. If you want to go more waterproof, you can get the 09 style frame battery which comes with waterproof connectors. As it is, the right off style battery hides all your connectors down inside the case, so it's largely water resistant. You still don't want to leave it outside without a cover during a downpour, but I've done lots of riding in heavy rain and I've been fine so far. A cheap bicycle cover is a good thing to keep stashed into a saddle bag though.

24V is doable. The power will be noticeably less, but if you are pedaling then it should be fine. For someone who wants to ride the ebike like a motorcycle without any pedaling at all, it would be a little underwhelming, but for a pedal assist bike it would be ok. The difference in price probably won't be more than like $40 or $50 though, and you actually have fewer battery options when you drop down to 24V. The bigger advantage is that it would be lighter by a pound or pound and a half.

People seem to like the 3 style display better for more options/parameters, but it doesn't super matter. I'm fine with the first display. I'm actually fine with no display. But you'll want one for adjusting the amount of pedal assist power you're after, I'd imagine. I personally hate pedal assist, as it's weird for me when it kicks in and out with my pedaling. It can even be disconcerting. I much prefer a hand throttle because I know exactly when I'm giving throttle and releasing. Thats a personal preference though, and its totally up to you.

PAS sensor can go on either side, but there's more room on the non chain ring side. I'm not entirely sure how many mm of clearance you'll need on that part, someone else needs to chime in on that. Remember, I don't use them

The hidden wire brake sensor is an alternative to the brake levers. Basically it cuts power to the motor if you are pulling the brakes. It's an extra safety, I rarely use them. I just know not to give throttle and brakes at the same time, which should be obvious to most people. If a new rider was flustered they could just clamp down on everything though, brakes, throttle, bar, everything, and so that is a safety to cut motor power if you are braking. If you enable cruise control, that's also how you turn off the cruise control.

Hope that info helps!

 

[ic3wall]

Welcome to the forum and welcome to ebikes!

I'll try answer all those questions, there were quite a lot.

First of all that's a great motor, many people are very happy with it. If you want to use a casette, that's one of your only options. Good option though.

Axle locks aren't really common for hubmotors. The motors themselves are harder to steal since they don't have quick releases, but technically anyone with an adjustable wrench can take it off in 60 seconds or less. Standard advice is to always use two locks, with at least one going between the hub motor and the frame (and the locking object if possible).

Torque arms are not necessary with that motor @ 36v in a steel dropouts. If you've got an aluminum fork and want to go with a front motor then you can maybe get away without one but I wouldn't. Aluminum rear dropouts are still probably fine with that motor. It comes with torque washers that act like mini torque arms. @ 36V and 15A controller you'll never see more than 500 watts with that motor, and if you're pedaling then you'll see a lot less.

http://www.bmsbattery.com/36v/567-bottle-ebike-battery-controller.html this battery has the integrated controller you'll want (get the S06S, not the S06P) and has more battery than you'll need, especially if you're pedaling. If you want to go more waterproof, you can get the 09 style frame battery which comes with waterproof connectors. As it is, the right off style battery hides all your connectors down inside the case, so it's largely water resistant. You still don't want to leave it outside without a cover during a downpour, but I've done lots of riding in heavy rain and I've been fine so far. A cheap bicycle cover is a good thing to keep stashed into a saddle bag though.

24V is doable. The power will be noticeably less, but if you are pedaling then it should be fine. For someone who wants to ride the ebike like a motorcycle without any pedaling at all, it would be a little underwhelming, but for a pedal assist bike it would be ok. The difference in price probably won't be more than like $40 or $50 though, and you actually have fewer battery options when you drop down to 24V. The bigger advantage is that it would be lighter by a pound or pound and a half.

People seem to like the 3 style display better for more options/parameters, but it doesn't super matter. I'm fine with the first display. I'm actually fine with no display. But you'll want one for adjusting the amount of pedal assist power you're after, I'd imagine. I personally hate pedal assist, as it's weird for me when it kicks in and out with my pedaling. It can even be disconcerting. I much prefer a hand throttle because I know exactly when I'm giving throttle and releasing. Thats a personal preference though, and its totally up to you.

PAS sensor can go on either side, but there's more room on the non chain ring side. I'm not entirely sure how many mm of clearance you'll need on that part, someone else needs to chime in on that. Remember, I don't use them

The hidden wire brake sensor is an alternative to the brake levers. Basically it cuts power to the motor if you are pulling the brakes. It's an extra safety, I rarely use them. I just know not to give throttle and brakes at the same time, which should be obvious to most people. If a new rider was flustered they could just clamp down on everything though, brakes, throttle, bar, everything, and so that is a safety to cut motor power if you are braking. If you enable cruise control, that's also how you turn off the cruise control.

Hope that info helps!

I know this thread is already 2 months+ old but I'm planning to use the same setup. Can the integrated controller mentionned above be used with a throttle alone instead of a PAS ?