Broke PAS disc, replaced with seemingly similar one, but assist makes bike too fast.

[synfayette]

I got the Hyper women's bike off Amazon
Model: HYP-E26-1200

the chain came off the spokes when I was assembling it and it broke the disc with the magnets on it.

I bought the "Brand: HUDAMZKY KT D12 Bike Magnets Pedal Assist Sensor Ebike Easy Crank Installation PAS Sensor" off Amazon.

I put the disc on and turned the bike on.
I did -not- install the sensor.

Since I just assembled it and the disc broke before I tested the assist, I don't have a baseline for this bike.
But after I put on the new disc and tried riding it, when the pedal assist engages it goes much faster than what I would think is normal for the first level (1 out of 3)

I've been riding my husband's bike (ecotric 26" fat tire) and it goes up to a level 5 (I'm assuming this will give it more of a variability on speeds than mine) and it's level 1 is like a nudge so that's what I'm using as a reference for my bike.

I decided to change the sensor but apparently I got the waterproof version and mine is the pin version. I've already ordered the pin one from Amazon now.

But in the meantime, is there a way to "fix" my speed?
The video for the disc said if I had a certain brand controller to change the c1, or if a different brand to change the parameters. I've tried googling how to change the controller parameters but aside from using an led panel I don't see a way.

My panel is an LCD 36v 810 but the only manuals I can find for it are for an s810 which is slightly different.

 

[Mongo]

Congrats for diving into the repair, but I'm curious if Hyper's support department (866-204-9737 Monday - Friday | 8am - 5pm (CST), service@hyperbicycles.com) has responded? Maybe, just maybe ("yeah sure, Mongo") has/will ship the correct disc, under, cough, warranty ("yeah sure, Mongo").

Before you dive further into a potential sensor-related mess.

 

[E-HP]

Since I just assembled it and the disc broke before I tested the assist, I don't have a baseline for this bike.
But after I put on the new disc and tried riding it, when the pedal assist engages it goes much faster than what I would think is normal for the first level (1 out of 3)

I've been riding my husband's bike (ecotric 26" fat tire) and it goes up to a level 5 (I'm assuming this will give it more of a variability on speeds than mine) and it's level 1 is like a nudge so that's what I'm using as a reference for my bike.

But in the meantime, is there a way to "fix" my speed?

My panel is an LED 36v 810 but the only manuals I can find for it are for an s810 which is slightly different.

The behavior you are describing may be controller related, not PAS related. In general, controllers can be speed or power based with respect to throttle and PAS. With speed based, a signal input translates to a certain speed, and the controller will provide all the power it can until hitting that speed. With power based, the signal equates to a certain power level, so acceleration will change with the assist level. Your husband’s fat bike may or may not be the same, but fat tires will dampen the acceleration, so hard to tell.
Cadence PAS on most bikes functions only as an on off switch when pedal movement is detected. More sophisticated setups will use pedal cadence to adjust assist, but not likely in your case.
You can test the speed vs power by putting it on level 1 and feeling the acceleration up to the level 1 speed. Then put it on 3 to see if it accelerates faster to that level 1 speed or not.

 

[lnanek]

Could be the old magnetic disc had fewer magnets than the new one. So the bike thinks you are pedaling much faster than before. Like if the old disc had 5 and the new one 10, then the bike would think you are pedaling twice as fast.

If you have no display and no advanced settings that can be adjusted, you might be able to just switch back to the old disc and fix it with super glue or suguru moldable glue. Or cut out half the magnets on the new disc.

 

[synfayette]

Congrats for diving into the repair, but I'm curious if Hyper's support department (866-204-9737 Monday - Friday | 8am - 5pm (CST), service@hyperbicycles.com) has responded? Maybe, just maybe ("yeah sure, Mongo") has/will ship the correct disc, under, cough, warranty ("yeah sure, Mongo").

Before you dive further into a potential sensor-related mess.

Thanks!
I sent them a msg before the post also asking for the manuals \ wire diagrams.
We'll see what I get.

 

[synfayette]

Could be the old magnetic disc had fewer magnets than the new one. So the bike thinks you are pedaling much faster than before. Like if the old disc had 5 and the new one 10, then the bike would think you are pedaling twice as fast.

If you have no display and no advanced settings that can be adjusted, you might be able to just switch back to the old disc and fix it with super glue or suguru moldable glue. Or cut out half the magnets on the new disc.

Forgot to mention that it had the same number of magnets on the replacement.
I haven't held them up together to check the placement but by eyeballing they seem the same distance apart.

 

[fill]

Is this perhaps just a misunderstanding of how the new ebike system works? the generic controller pictured will probably have its pedal assist levels (pas levels) limited by speed, Not Power..

So in pas level 1 where the speed may be limited to circa 5mph? and pas level 2 where the speed may be limited at 10mph?
the bike will accelerate at full power until that limit is hit and the power will cut off..

It can be shocking 1st time on the bike when it feels like its rocketing away when used to gradual speed control in a car or m/cycle..

However once you get used to it, and remember you only need crack a brake lever to engage the motor cut off it is as easy as ridding a bike , excuse the poor humour.

edit btw yours (pictured above) is not a KT (Ketung) Brand controller.

 

[Mongo]

As @synfayette wrote (very helpful diagnostic details, BTW), the bike's behavior was never experienced, so maybe the abrupt startup is just the way this bike plays. Not that it cannot be tamed down, but if it were me, I'd get it back to working factory stock and then tweak it from there as needed / as possible.