From what I can tell you'd need a USB-serial cable, but what your specific controller connection wiring would be (if your controller even has the connector, and it's firmware has the option to do this), I don't know.
Chinese Retro Scooter - Running at 72v versus 60v
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marqueemoon
1 mW
It's exactly the same as the setup shown in the OP's pictures, which is why I was hoping they might still be around... OP mentions software, drivers and using Windows 10, all of which I have, but not sure if you just plug the USB lead from the bike's controller into the laptop, or if some other converter/cable is required?
If it's already got the USB cable, then that should connect directly to your computer's USB port. Your computer will detect it and ask to install the driver software.
AFAIK you don't turn on the scooter (you actually should disconnect it's battery), and the USB powers just the MCU for the programming bits.
Then you open the programming software and (usually) select which com port it should talk to, which is normally the only one listed in the dropdown or menu.
AFAIK you don't turn on the scooter (you actually should disconnect it's battery), and the USB powers just the MCU for the programming bits.
Then you open the programming software and (usually) select which com port it should talk to, which is normally the only one listed in the dropdown or menu.
marqueemoon
1 mW
Did it this morning, worked a treat... I had the added complication of having to re-attach the serial - USB adapter, as it had become detached at some point. For the benefit of any other Quazzar owners who may find themselves with this problem, the connections are: red=VCC, black=GND, green=RXD and yellow=TXD. Now I have to figure out why the horn doesn't work...
Probably the horn button switch itself, or the wires to it. (the connectors at the horn itself are usually fairly secure for most of the types I've seen).
marqueemoon
1 mW
Turned out to be simpler than that, the traction battery was flat, so the thing that converts 60V->12V for the lights etc. was only knocking out 11.5V. Happily I only paid for this contraption was I thought it was worth without a battery, as I was pretty certain the battery would be shot. Next job is to get it rebuilt.
marqueemoon
1 mW
So I'm now the proud (?) owner of two Quazzars (don't ask 
) and three battery packs... Quazzar #1 now has an MOT and is road legal and everything, and the de-restriction appears to have worked (40mph on the flat, albeit severely reduced by hills). In case anyone else didn't know, the red thing that looks like a kill switch on the right hand bar control actually selects low or high power...
I'm just wondering if any of the other Quazzarists in this thread have had any success in extracting more power via the stock controller, or if I'm going to have to fork out for a new one? If anyone has ideas about what I can try next, I'm all ears... not massively worried about blowing the controller up as I have Quazzar #2 for spares. Cheers.
) and three battery packs... Quazzar #1 now has an MOT and is road legal and everything, and the de-restriction appears to have worked (40mph on the flat, albeit severely reduced by hills). In case anyone else didn't know, the red thing that looks like a kill switch on the right hand bar control actually selects low or high power...I'm just wondering if any of the other Quazzarists in this thread have had any success in extracting more power via the stock controller, or if I'm going to have to fork out for a new one? If anyone has ideas about what I can try next, I'm all ears... not massively worried about blowing the controller up as I have Quazzar #2 for spares. Cheers.
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