Controllers in general. Many on the market but which one gives the most reliability? Which one should I get?

[leffex]

The question is wide.

Let's say I have been using a few controller at around 2kw - 14kw depening on what measurment you use to decide controller power.

My history of controllers:

Sabvoton 72150 + 50a extra flux is is the most powerful I have used I think. This controller has some kind of hall-sensor error after a few minutes ride 10-30 minutes and then stop working and needing a few hours cooldown which will not work. Oh. my car stopped working on the road I just park on the side waiting 3 hours before going to work... 95vx150+100a flux 450phase.

Lingbo-mc.com controller from a Super Soco TC modded with a shunt mod so at least 20-30% extra power. I feelt more but the original settings where 72v + 45A so about 2,5kw. Modded for high power it worked for a while giving out "current to high" errors. Scraping of some shunt mod juice I got it back to work better bit still with some small nuisances when riding.

Generic chinese 24fet Greetime - worked, stopped working, worked, stopped working, sold it, started to work. Sensorless function was great. Start was a little jerky.

Generic Chinese 15fet Greentime - worked, stopped working, worked, stopped working, sold it, started to work. Sensorless function was great. Start was a little jerky.

Gerneric Chinese 6fet Lyen expensive edition. Worked for 2 weeks then it decided to go in reverse. Died in the rain. Also it was sensorless. The best function with that controller, though,

Generic 500w. Worked. Sensorless funciton.

I'm looking for a new controller obviously and a few are at my feet. A original non-oem TC-max controller uping voltage and amperage to 88v and 80a I think. Shunt available and also modification of drivers setting via software.

Another option. A Votol em100, em150 or em200. Size of the 200 I guess is like 50cm or 25 inches so pretty large.

Vesc, vedder original version 72v x 100a with FOC or sensorless motor compatability. But I have had no esc in the past so I don't know more than they are very sensitive but how sensitive? Is it even an option? I'm not in the air flying so I won't die if the controller blows after a year. And that cost would be totally fine. saving 2000 dollars and paying 400 when it brakes down is fine then repeat if the controller really is "fly".

 

[leffex]

I just got a new controller that I will try very soon. For my original controller I believe it may have a burp at the "key switch" or so to say a wiggly cable connection. I will try to sort that first. I cross my fingers hard it will work and then I will solder the shunts red hot and fatten them up a little to the most extreme level I've had.

Back to the new controller.
It seems to have a lot of feets. 18 in total. I haven't opened it up to check exactly which ones they are but the 1,2kg or 2lbs controller have a special mode and function that I think may score gold. Same thing here. If it works flawless I will try to beef up the shunt and juice it up a little and hope for the best.

The mode is as follows:
Sine wave
Square wave
Sensorless

Until later.

 

[nicobie]

Excellent. Be sure to let us know.

 

[j bjork]

It sounds like it is a bicycle you want a controller for?
I think the nucular 24fet is a nice one in that case, dont need any mods to be powerful.

 

[leffex]

It sounds like it is a bicycle you want a controller for?
I think the nucular 24fet is a nice one in that case, dont need any mods to be powerful.

It could work but a lot of tweaking on that one. I like fast and bolt on connections and also the sensorless function. When I asked the nucular guy he said the sensorless mode was very basic or slow. I don't know what he means but guessed he meant that the speed was way low, effeciency was bad and all that. I need speed and power all the time and no downtime at all. 100% reliability.

The original controller on my bike has given me that power but it gives out errors that is very annoying. Like driving a car with belt sign on continuously or that you need to re-apply throttle every time because it just stops working. That is not good for driving and safety. Maybe I solve it with a bad connection for the "key" on/off function of the original controller or I try the one I bought if it works and then shunt it hard.