mindgames11
1 mW
Discerning the peak voltage for a controller seems more straightforward to me by looking at the voltage ratings on the caps and checking the spec sheets for the output semiconductor devices.
However for the motor... since no one actually provides even an index card of truly useful information about their devices, I'm much more at a loss.
My understanding is that Power handling for motors is limited by heat- overall temperature increase from current, friction, whatever; and by breakdown of the dielectric shorting out the windings.
I'm considering a mid drive. Likely a 48v 750w BBS02. Can these be operated with 36v batteries?
I have a 250w 36v Kuo + A2B that I recently purchased and am about to put on the road. I'm likely going to run it at the suggested 36 volts, although I'm likely to swap out the controller at some point, whether it craps out, or whatever. The battery connector is a 5 conductor, so if I want to connect one of the other 36V batteries that I converted from their proprietary BMS to "ordinary" "here's the charge wires, here's the power out wires", so I'm going to need to figure out how to modify the battery connector dock on the bike (or splice/add positive and negative wires from the controller and circumvent the battery dock).
I have a few other E bike and scooter motors with 36 and 48 volt ratings. I'm wondering how I can make educated guesses as to if I can feed the 36v motors 48, and what I should be attentive to and what types of caution I should exercise when operating the motor on a vehicle.
some unrelated questions that I may make postings for provided I can't find suitable answers, but will include here in the hope that I can get more input:
1: What's the best way to add an on/off switch to a battery?
2: I have half a dozen 10s3p (iirc) batteries with nice, genuine LG INR MJ1 cells. If I end up really liking this 36v Kuo folder (I've come to not mind the insane weight of the DD motor in the rear wheel of the 28 inch wheel bike equipped with a 52v pack that was my first purchase into the electric vehicle world. I've got a serious chain and U lock combo and it lives outdoors in the city since the size and weight made hauling it up even one flight was irritating) a 10s6p battery might be a superb option to have if I want a longer range, not to mention the better ability to supply power (although again, I don't know what the 250W rating is, continuous or peak;if it's a conservative rating, etc.) I have some battery testers. two four cell devices and four one cell devices. Since it's kinda a pain to make new packs, would be be wiser to set up some kind of a dual-battery draw system, or just bite the bullet and pull apart a few of these packs and find if there's two packs with the cells close enough together in spec that I can use them in the same assembly?
3: has anyone used a hub motor for a scooter on an E bike, or a scooter hub motor or e bike hub motor as a mid drive, or a side mount drive?
Years ago I wished that I could add a lightweight system that I could add to a 20 inch bmx that once I pedaled up to speed (twenty-ish mph), I could engage it and have it keep me at the top end without my having to keep high cadence and instead leaning down low for aerodynamics and ability to give more attention to traffic and road surface conditions.
However for the motor... since no one actually provides even an index card of truly useful information about their devices, I'm much more at a loss.
My understanding is that Power handling for motors is limited by heat- overall temperature increase from current, friction, whatever; and by breakdown of the dielectric shorting out the windings.
I'm considering a mid drive. Likely a 48v 750w BBS02. Can these be operated with 36v batteries?
I have a 250w 36v Kuo + A2B that I recently purchased and am about to put on the road. I'm likely going to run it at the suggested 36 volts, although I'm likely to swap out the controller at some point, whether it craps out, or whatever. The battery connector is a 5 conductor, so if I want to connect one of the other 36V batteries that I converted from their proprietary BMS to "ordinary" "here's the charge wires, here's the power out wires", so I'm going to need to figure out how to modify the battery connector dock on the bike (or splice/add positive and negative wires from the controller and circumvent the battery dock).
I have a few other E bike and scooter motors with 36 and 48 volt ratings. I'm wondering how I can make educated guesses as to if I can feed the 36v motors 48, and what I should be attentive to and what types of caution I should exercise when operating the motor on a vehicle.
some unrelated questions that I may make postings for provided I can't find suitable answers, but will include here in the hope that I can get more input:
1: What's the best way to add an on/off switch to a battery?
2: I have half a dozen 10s3p (iirc) batteries with nice, genuine LG INR MJ1 cells. If I end up really liking this 36v Kuo folder (I've come to not mind the insane weight of the DD motor in the rear wheel of the 28 inch wheel bike equipped with a 52v pack that was my first purchase into the electric vehicle world. I've got a serious chain and U lock combo and it lives outdoors in the city since the size and weight made hauling it up even one flight was irritating) a 10s6p battery might be a superb option to have if I want a longer range, not to mention the better ability to supply power (although again, I don't know what the 250W rating is, continuous or peak;if it's a conservative rating, etc.) I have some battery testers. two four cell devices and four one cell devices. Since it's kinda a pain to make new packs, would be be wiser to set up some kind of a dual-battery draw system, or just bite the bullet and pull apart a few of these packs and find if there's two packs with the cells close enough together in spec that I can use them in the same assembly?
3: has anyone used a hub motor for a scooter on an E bike, or a scooter hub motor or e bike hub motor as a mid drive, or a side mount drive?
Years ago I wished that I could add a lightweight system that I could add to a 20 inch bmx that once I pedaled up to speed (twenty-ish mph), I could engage it and have it keep me at the top end without my having to keep high cadence and instead leaning down low for aerodynamics and ability to give more attention to traffic and road surface conditions.
