Help 18FET Lyen Controller

[RyanMc]

I have a pedal bar bike. I am not very tech savvy but here is my issue.

I have a Cro Motor. It’s a 5,000 watt continuous motor with a maximum burst output of 12,000 watts for only a few minutes.

I have a Cycle Analyst and a Lyen 18 MOSFET controller. The controller has a hot electrical smell so I think something got hot. Cycle Analyst still turns on and I have a throttle pedal connected to that that when depressed will move the bike. When I depress the pedal, the cycle analyst recognizes it and there’s a bar that moves up and down showing it’s pressed but the bike doesn’t move.

It’s powered by 6 12 volt batteries. I’ve emailed Edward Lyen but haven’t heard back and in the past he hasn’t had replacement boards to make a new controller.

Am I able to use another type of motor controller? If so what and how?

Any help is greatly appreciated! I have a few pictures of the connections! I need to get back up and running!!

 

[amberwolf]

If the controller failed, knowing why will help you ensure a new one won't. But if you don't, that's ok, we can still find you one that will do the job you need it to.

How much battery current is the present controller rated for?

Does it have any customized settings? Or is that all in the CA?

If the CA is doing all control/limiting/etc functions, then you just need a non-ramping (instant-start) throttle-only controller that can operate above 84v (typical full charge for a "72v" battery) (so a "100v" controller would work), that can handle at least as much current as the present controller.

There are probably thousands that can do the job, depending on the current required.


BTW, if there was anything that changed or occured between the time the system worked and the time it didn't, it would be helpful to know, as some kinds of failures can indicate other problems outside the controller.

 

[RyanMc]

If the controller failed, knowing why will help you ensure a new one won't. But if you don't, that's ok, we can still find you one that will do the job you need it to.

How much battery current is the present controller rated for?

Does it have any customized settings? Or is that all in the CA?

If the CA is doing all control/limiting/etc functions, then you just need a non-ramping (instant-start) throttle-only controller that can operate above 84v (typical full charge for a "72v" battery) (so a "100v" controller would work), that can handle at least as much current as the present controller.

There are probably thousands that can do the job, depending on the current required.


BTW, if there was anything that changed or occured between the time the system worked and the time it didn't, it would be helpful to know, as some kinds of failures can indicate other problems outside the controller.

Thank you so much for the reply.
I’m sorry it took me until now to see it. I was able to have someone send me another motor controller and CA. I plugged everything in how it should and when I press the pedal, the CA shows on the left side it being depressed but bike doesn’t move.
The CA shows correct volts. Until where it shows 80V it says 0.00 A. I’m wondering now if it’s something else.
Sterling at Bend Electric mentioned something about the motor not working when the brake was depressed. I don’t know where to go or who to get help from as I’m not savvy in any of this.
If someone is in the area - I’m near Toledo, OH.
Thanks!

 

[amberwolf]

Thank you so much for the reply.
I’m sorry it took me until now to see it. I was able to have someone send me another motor controller and CA. I plugged everything in how it should and when I press the pedal, the CA shows on the left side it being depressed but bike doesn’t move.

Some things you may have to ask the provider of the new parts: Is the CA configured (in it's setup menus) and wired the same way yours is? If not, it may not work the way you expect it to, or at all, since it is highly configurable and what it does in response to input depends on it's setup.

Is the controller the same as yours? If not, it might not operate as expected either; for instance it's phase and hall wire combination to the motor's phase and hall wires to operate the motor may be different, and so it would not be able to run the motor well or at all. Or if it's other wiring is different, or it's voltage range is different, etc.

If they also don't work, it could be the batteries or the motor or some other part of the system, but it could just be the CA not setup for your specific system. Knowing the differences between them and what you already had may be necessary to know why they aren't working, in addition to knowing what you already have.

In the meantime, some things you can try:

On the CA, with the system setup and on, ready to go, press the left button on the CA once. This gets you to the diag screen

First, are any of the letters on the lower left capitalized? If so, this prevents the CA from sending the normal throttle out to the controller.

Next, does the Out on the right track the same voltage as the In on the left? If not, what does it do? If it stays below 1v, it means it is not sending a throttle signal to your controller, so the controller won't do anything.

Once we know those, we can proceed with other steps.

The CA shows correct volts. Until where it shows 80V it says 0.00 A.

This is confusing. Do you mean that in some places it shows a different voltage than 80V for battery voltage? If so, please state exactly which place on which screen that it shows you each of these things.

All the screens are listed here,

Cycle Analyst V3 - Grin Products - Product Info

The Cycle Analyst display is our first flagship product released in 2006 and now in its 3rd generation. While the hardware design may be showing its age, it still has capabilities and functionalities that are unmatched by modern ebike systems with their pretty colour screens. This device also...

ebikes.ca

so you can copy/paste the images of the screens and then tell us which one you are looking at and exactly what your screen says there, whenever you refer to something on the CA.

The 0.00A (A is amps, V is volts, which are totally separate things) means that no current is flowing, which is normal if the motor isn't running and the CA has been calibrated correctly for the shunt in the system.

Sterling at Bend Electric mentioned something about the motor not working when the brake was depressed.

Yes. If you are braking you aren't accelerating or cruising, so the motor should not be commanded to run whenever you brake (by pedal or lever, etc).