drummerian
100 W
incredibly cheeky bump.
Has anyone else got controller advice?
Has anyone else got controller advice?
MAC motor worries
- Thread starter drummerian
- Start date
999zip999
100 TW
Whoops
Hi just wanted to include my issue incase others land here for advice.
I had what seemed to be hall failures on a mac. It started from day one with minor sync issues as I slowed on uphills or sped up on downhills. It would start to sound funny until I released the throttle quick and reapplied and then seemed ok.
One day it packed in and on investigation two of my hall wires where looped and kinked around a phase wire, snapping the wires inside. The remaining strand of wire gave me months of reduced performance and seemed impossible to diagnose until the motor totally stopped working.
Sometimes (only on cold nights probably due to less resistance in the remaining strand of wire ) I would get 20 percent more torque.
I pulled the black sheath off and saw the bent wires so gave them a little tug and they both snapped. After replacing that section its like a rocket. I only upgraded to a 50v battery due to the poor range and constantly fading performance and now wish I hadnt as its total overkill lol. So even testing the halls with a voltmeter can throw you up the wrong path. Maybe there is a way to check wire resistance in these cases.
I have had no major issues in a year of weekend riding but am very aware of how the internals are laid out and release the throttle each time I see a bump in the road. I gently engage the clutch before opening it fully.
My gears are perfect looking but did finally have a clutch seize moment this week. My woodruff key is starting to deform and may have pushed up into the clutch. I turned it around for now and seems ok. It was after a loooong climb and feels like the bearing may have heated up and cooled while engaged, seizing it into place.
I was going to order a whole new kit (controller,spokes, all the upgrades etc) and asked if paul? cellman would consider throwing in a clutch to repair my old one at the same time. After nearly spending £1300 he resentfully agreed including a £10 part but said he didnt feel they owed me anything as it was over a year and out of warranty on top of the fact I was using the 40a controller. So for now I am just going to patch up the old one as I dont like taking things im not owed. I am usually doing 12mph behind my gf and a 24v conhis motor but the vendor doesnt know this and can assume iv been using my dh rig like a looney for 18 months lol. But your situation is different and hope he is helping you out?
Anyway what I am thinking is have you asked for replacement parts or just been told sod off because you have a 40a controller like me? I got it as he states it a efficient and reliable controller option.
Now I have full power I have sometimes been throwing too much down and shocking the clutch (same old version as yours) and seized it literally a week after fixing the weak hall wires. So I would conclude this old clutch cannot take a single bad 40a launch. By bad I mean wot from a standstill etc. Let me know how your getting on and if my ramblings can help somehow.
I had what seemed to be hall failures on a mac. It started from day one with minor sync issues as I slowed on uphills or sped up on downhills. It would start to sound funny until I released the throttle quick and reapplied and then seemed ok.
One day it packed in and on investigation two of my hall wires where looped and kinked around a phase wire, snapping the wires inside. The remaining strand of wire gave me months of reduced performance and seemed impossible to diagnose until the motor totally stopped working.
Sometimes (only on cold nights probably due to less resistance in the remaining strand of wire ) I would get 20 percent more torque.
I pulled the black sheath off and saw the bent wires so gave them a little tug and they both snapped. After replacing that section its like a rocket. I only upgraded to a 50v battery due to the poor range and constantly fading performance and now wish I hadnt as its total overkill lol. So even testing the halls with a voltmeter can throw you up the wrong path. Maybe there is a way to check wire resistance in these cases.
I have had no major issues in a year of weekend riding but am very aware of how the internals are laid out and release the throttle each time I see a bump in the road. I gently engage the clutch before opening it fully.
My gears are perfect looking but did finally have a clutch seize moment this week. My woodruff key is starting to deform and may have pushed up into the clutch. I turned it around for now and seems ok. It was after a loooong climb and feels like the bearing may have heated up and cooled while engaged, seizing it into place.
I was going to order a whole new kit (controller,spokes, all the upgrades etc) and asked if paul? cellman would consider throwing in a clutch to repair my old one at the same time. After nearly spending £1300 he resentfully agreed including a £10 part but said he didnt feel they owed me anything as it was over a year and out of warranty on top of the fact I was using the 40a controller. So for now I am just going to patch up the old one as I dont like taking things im not owed. I am usually doing 12mph behind my gf and a 24v conhis motor but the vendor doesnt know this and can assume iv been using my dh rig like a looney for 18 months lol. But your situation is different and hope he is helping you out?
Anyway what I am thinking is have you asked for replacement parts or just been told sod off because you have a 40a controller like me? I got it as he states it a efficient and reliable controller option.
Now I have full power I have sometimes been throwing too much down and shocking the clutch (same old version as yours) and seized it literally a week after fixing the weak hall wires. So I would conclude this old clutch cannot take a single bad 40a launch. By bad I mean wot from a standstill etc. Let me know how your getting on and if my ramblings can help somehow.
Raged
1 kW
bionicdan said:
To be fair, £10 is nothing for you, but might pay a part of a days days wage for an employee in Asia... and a business that keeps giving out free stuff doesnt stay in business for long. I run a MAC10T with a 12FET 40A 3077 controller on 14S3P (58V) and abuse the crap out of it with the amount of torque it puts out (front wheel pops off the ground on launches and I sort of bunny hop)... And it can still do 50km/h on the commute with a 29er. I expect it will eventually break something, but I dont expect replacement parts for free. eBikes are too open for abuse.
Yeah thats fine but both our motors seemed to have been supplied with defects and it sounds like the OP has had to order new parts after only using it for 4 miles. Hopefully that isnt the case but if it is that sucks. I checked my gears inside this week, they look absolutely new and do not abuse my motor like you may have. I pedal like mad when going up hills too as I feel the motors pain lol.
I tried to ask for advice a few times and only ever get responses when enquiring about buying things. You seem to be buying a very unique motor here and its good fun when its working but your not buying much warranty or support. I just feel a bit bad because I recommended the mac to the OP but do remember telling him Iv read cellman is quick to blame the user for things where there is any doubt.
Its taken me a year to get my motor working at full power after constant head scratching and wondering if its working right. If it had been like that from day one I would be a perfectly happy camper. Its been fun all the same
A little gesture of goodwill and a sorry youve had problems would have been enough to have me buy another full kit in the hope it runs perfectly.
Ps I also bought the £600 a123 amp20 48v battery from em3ev.com and its awsome
I tried to ask for advice a few times and only ever get responses when enquiring about buying things. You seem to be buying a very unique motor here and its good fun when its working but your not buying much warranty or support. I just feel a bit bad because I recommended the mac to the OP but do remember telling him Iv read cellman is quick to blame the user for things where there is any doubt.
Its taken me a year to get my motor working at full power after constant head scratching and wondering if its working right. If it had been like that from day one I would be a perfectly happy camper. Its been fun all the same
A little gesture of goodwill and a sorry youve had problems would have been enough to have me buy another full kit in the hope it runs perfectly.Ps I also bought the £600 a123 amp20 48v battery from em3ev.com and its awsome
