Tangent Ascent 6000w on an NS Fuzz

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Sep 10, 2016
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Updating a bit: So my Tangent Ascent mid-drive kit arrived, and I began building what will become the most awesome electric bike ever! (That’s my opinion and I’m sticking by it.) Pics attached.

Some specs for the curious: the motor is an Astro Flight 3220, a 6000-watt unit designed for huge R/C planes. It makes peak power between 6,000 - 10,000 RPM, so zoooom! This 4-turn motor’s windings use the highest grade of sintered samarium-cobalt magnet, offering a power-to-weight ratio 2-3 times greater than other motors, and a peak efficiency as high as 94%.

The motor is wrapped in a finely machined, finned aluminum casing, operated by a teeny power controller (compared to most behemoths out there - mine is that little finned box with green lettering on one side of the mounting bracket). It puts down the power through an integrated 20:1 internal-reduction eccentric reduction gearbox with zero parasitic power consumption (a patented item) and 2:1 secondary chain reduction, so the motor spins 40 times faster than the crankset, enabling me to pedal as well, if I can manage to keep up. There’s a freewheel (the silver thingy with a gear attached) that allows me to just stand on the pedals while the motor does the work, if I prefer.

The lithium battery is a 52-volt, 20-amp-hour monster that uses the fastest-discharging 18650 Samsung cells rated at 25R, sufficient to power this machine almost to its max of about 9 horsepower, 200 lb-feet wheel torque at 20mph, 65 lb-feet torque at 45mph, and a top speed well above that with the right gearing. It comes with a Cycle Analyst V.3 computer control unit that does All The Things, including allowing me to create three different power-control settings (say, one for street-legal, one for unlimited racing, and something reasonable in-between).

The bike itself is a crazy downhill monster, an NS Bikes Fuzz with 8″ of fork travel to absorb high-speed bumps, a 4-bar Horst-link suspension (a design with significant rearward axle movement to absorb vertical obstacles), hydraulic disc brakes, and tons of other great features. Plus it’s big and long, with 650b (27.5″) wheels, adding stability at speed on pavement or over rough terrain.

So yeah, most awesome ebike ever.

EDIT: Just finished building my new bike using the awesome Tangent Ascent mid-drive kit on a long-travel NS Bikes Fuzz downhill racer I got from a local. I’ve left the Cycle Analyst at full power (6000 watts), and will report soon on how it went!
 

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Mündawg said:
Oh shit just read your post. The chain snapped? 6000w seems too much for bike gears. i would stick to <3000w in the future.

Thanks, Mundawg. The chain stayed on the bike, just ripped free of the chainring and wrapped itself around the right-side crank. Check out the picture. Not sure how clearly you can see it, but when I finally gave it more than half throttle, something went way wrong. The chains both ripped free, and the one that goes all the way to the rear wheel wrapped itself so hard and fast around the bottom bracket that it bent the freewheel almost an inch sideways. Oh, and the pedals, now free of having to drive the bike, whirled forward with the full force of that motor.

Yes, I will have an impressive, pedal-shaped bruise on my calf. The back feels pretty interesting at the moment, too. But, hey, I survived! There's hot-rodding for you.
 

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litespeed said:
Awesome build!

Tom

Thanks, Tom! I'll update as I mod (and repair) it. Probably going with a Gates belt drive next. At least if that goes catastrophic, I'm less likely to suffer.
 
Hey McKitterick, great build, the reason the chain came off is because the suntour chainring is not a narrow wide, i've been digging around and although raceface only do a 38t as their biggest, these guys http://www.amber-bikes.com/ do a 44 which would be insane top speed with an 11t at the back. The carnage was also aided by the fact that the high crank cadence (more than normal pedalling) combined with losing the chain wrapped it all up and i guess you know the rest :)

Hope you and the bike are on the mend.
b
 
hyperdash said:
Hey McKitterick, great build, the reason the chain came off is because the suntour chainring is not a narrow wide, i've been digging around and although raceface only do a 38t as their biggest, these guys http://www.amber-bikes.com/ do a 44 which would be insane top speed with an 11t at the back. The carnage was also aided by the fact that the high crank cadence (more than normal pedalling) combined with losing the chain wrapped it all up and i guess you know the rest :)

Hope you and the bike are on the mend.
b

Thanks so much for the advice and well wishes, hyperdash! I'm much better now, but with winter full-on here in Kansas, and end-of-semester work cranked up, I've not started rebuilding yet. But soon, once I turn in grades!

Chris
 
Powerful mid drives are hard all bicycle drive train components, not only the chain. Prepare for better chain, chainring, rr sprocket, guide and tensioner... Make a perfect chainline alignment and add a safety guide to prevent a broken chain to slap your leg (but I guess you know that already). :wink:
 
MadRhino said:
Powerful mid drives are hard all bicycle drive train components, not only the chain. Prepare for better chain, chainring, rr sprocket, guide and tensioner... Make a perfect chainline alignment and add a safety guide to prevent a broken chain to slap your leg (but I guess you know that already). :wink:

Thanks, MadRhino! Yeah, I figured that out :)
 
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