TSDZ2-necessity of the iron bracket on non-drive side?

[stratohunter]

I received a new frame with an odd design (please see picture below). It's internal routed and has a wide cable outlet at the bottom of the downtube. As such, the motor cover won't close due to the nut on it interfering with the downtube opening (at the red arrow). I'm considering grinding down this nut to free up some space.

Typically, there is an iron bracket (shown at the blue arrow) securing the motor cover via its two nuts onto the bottom bracket. With one of the two nuts removed, it probably won't make sense to put the iron bracket back. I really don't want to remove any material from the frame anyway.

So here comes my question, is it okay to run without this iron bracket? In my opinion, the TSDZ2 is secured mainly by the fixing block tying to the chainstays, so the iron bracket is not that important, right?

 

[endlessolli]

I would think that leaving it away is not a good idea, as this bracket helps to 'hold' the weight of the little internal motor symmetrically.
Otherwise the weight of that motor is only held asymetrically on the left side and esp on bumpy roads etc there is a chance that the enclosure of the TSDZ2 will break due to fatigue etc. (And that happens - I saw people reporting this)

 

[pxl666]

in marin rift zone I had to heavily cut bike and motor housing to fit it tight so it's possible the case for you too...

 

[stratohunter]

Otherwise the weight of that motor is only held asymetrically on the left side and esp on bumpy roads etc there is a chance that the enclosure of the TSDZ2 will break due to fatigue etc. (And that happens - I saw people reporting this)

Good point. But as the weight of the motor part is not huge (likely <1.5kg), shouldn't the flex be small enough to last for years?
And do you have a link how someone broke the casing by not using this iron bracket? I can't find someone not using it on the web (as this part has too many names) and that's also why I'm posting here

 

[stratohunter]

in marin rift zone I had to heavily cut bike and motor housing to fit it tight so it's possible the case for you too...

I probably won't go that far if I can get away by modifying the motor. For me, the last thing to touch is the frame since it's the most expensive and risky part.

 

[endlessolli]

Good point. But as the weight of the motor part is not huge (likely <1.5kg), shouldn't the flex be small enough to last for years?
And do you have a link how someone broke the casing by not using this iron bracket? I can't find someone not using it on the web (as this part has too many names) and that's also why I'm posting here

Here is one example:
https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/my-tsdz2-casing-broke-are-shell-replacements-worth-it-or-should-i-consider-other-options.44262/
(Not the exact same part left out, but similar idea)