TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

[mbrusa]

The assistance parameters of the hybrid mode are the same used in the two modes, torque and power, combined with the same level.
To decrease the low cadence assistance you have to decrease the torque assist values.
Try power assist with startup boost enabled, the assistance adjustment with the two startup boost parameters is finer.

 

[devboy-greg]

This is a first ride report using the new V20.1C-LCD3 firmware.
14.5miles ridden with 1,137ft climbing, 155wh of battery used.

I have to say right from the start that this is a massive improvement for me and the style of riding I do which is trail/enduro. The Hybrid mode along with the field weakening are fantastic updates.

I installed the software onto my lightweight full suss trail bike which has the 36v motor, KT-LCD3 display, custom 48v 320wh battery, no brake sensors.

In Hybrid mode the low end torque is addictive, then as you start to ramp up cadence the power just builds and builds, nothing too aggressive, very smooth ...awesome!

I tested the other modes which all work as expected, but hybrid is the one for me, I can configure the power curve to the type of riding I’m doing, lots of low end torque for technical forest riding or high speed power when riding a flow trail. I can’t think of any commercially available bikes that offer this level of customisation.

So now I’m torn, as I’m also really excited about the new wireless functionality that @casainho and the other developers are working on, which is going to be a game changer with the possibilities it will offer.

I guess my utopian wish would be this software with it’s hybrid mode that sees the wireless functionality as just another display?

Thanks for all your work along with all the other developers and contributors to the TSDZ2-Sphere!

 

[ahagge]

I'm contemplating a TSDZ2 purchase to use with this great firmware, and I have a question about the 860C display version:

Do user-modified settings remain intact if the firmware is updated to a newer version?

Unless I'm missing something, it seems like it would be a HUGE chore to have to go into each and every setting and check/set it every time you do a firmware update.

It depends on the changes, yes in case the data structure in eeprom has changed, but it is unlikely in the short term.
Otherwise with any other modification, the user data remains intact.
But don't worry, once you have mastered the parameters, with the 860C it only takes 2 minutes to set them up.

Thanks - that's what I was hoping to hear! Do you have plans to manage the EEPROM structure changes, so that users are notified when it happens (eiter on-display, in release notes, or with a major version bump)? It would be good for us to know when we have to check everything vs when we can be confident that if we install an update, that we can leave the settings alone.

 

[mbrusa]

If with future updates there is the need to delete the data memory, it will certainly be notified!

 

[plpetrov]

In common they all have the same base firmware, v7 of mspider65 which derives from 20beta1, to which I have added other changes.

Currently mspider65 has released a new and improved version of his software. According to his tests and the user reports, it brings improvements to v7 that you have taken as a base for your your development. Have you already implemented any of those changes in your version and do you think onboarding them can make this firmware even better.

Currently I am looking for alternatives to version 1.1, where it seems the development has stopped for a year now and even the known bugs and issues has not been fixed.

 

[Elinx]

Currently mspider65 has released a new and improved version of his software. According to his tests and the user reports, it brings improvements to v7 .......

For what I understand is the most important improvement of mspider65 v11 the calculation of the exact position of the rotor with use of the information given by the hall sensors. This results in less wasted energy and heat.
imho in theory, same power with less current and heat, so more km's or miles on one battery discharge possible.

 

[mbrusa]

I have seen the new version of mspider65, there are very interesting improvements, I did not insert them immediately so as not to further delay the release, I think I will do it in a next version.
I don't know when, programming is a winter hobby for me, going towards the summer the time to devote to the PC will be less and less.

 

[HughF]

Put the time into the LCD3, you won't be disappointed.

Because I'm totally incompetent at finding stuff on the wiki, can you point me to a link in how to open the lcd3 and access the programming header?

 

[dameri]

Put the time into the LCD3, you won't be disappointed.

Because I'm totally incompetent at finding stuff on the wiki, can you point me to a link in how to open the lcd3 and access the programming header?

I hope this video helps you. It's made by jbalat who was very active here when TSDZ2 open source prjoject begun.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxEHDFCaKH8

 

[HughF]

Put the time into the LCD3, you won't be disappointed.

Because I'm totally incompetent at finding stuff on the wiki, can you point me to a link in how to open the lcd3 and access the programming header?

I hope this video helps you. It's made by jbalat who was very active here when TSDZ2 open source prjoject begun.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxEHDFCaKH8

Perfect, thanks. I'll have a look at this next week when I'm back at work

 

[HughF]

With SW102 does not complete the compilation, not having the display to test, I have not investigated the problem.
Maybe someone who has SW102 and is able to compile can try.

Would you like me to send you an sw102 for testing? You can keep it, no charge.

 

[jeff.page.rides]

For the past couple of months, I have been helping test this new version of firmware 20.1C for the 860C!
I have to say it's the best version of firmware I've ever used on the TSDZ2!
Last year mbrusa improved the firmware 20.1 for the LCD3 so it was much safer and better than before!
Then the last few months he was able to add the 860C and 850C displays to the 20.1C firmware and improved it for all the displays!
I want to publicly thank mbrusa for all his work getting his version of 20.1C working on all the displays. And working with me the last two years to make MAJOR improvements to his version 20.1C on all the displays!
THANKS!
Jeff

 

[elfnino]

I am trying to flash engine with TSDZ2-v20.1C-860C.hex (https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-860C/releases/tag/v20.1C-860C) and when trying to open the file withSTVP I get error " FILE line 7: not in Intel HEX format!"

(no such issue with the TSDZ2-v20.1C-LCD3.hex)

 

[mbrusa]

With SW102 does not complete the compilation, not having the display to test, I have not investigated the problem.
Maybe someone who has SW102 and is able to compile can try.

Would you like me to send you an sw102 for testing? You can keep it, no charge.

Thank you for the proposal but I would wait, the fw certainly works also with SW102, the problem is just being able to compile, it gave me an error, something about nrf is missing to install, I will try to investigate.
For this I ask if there is anyone available to compile.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Perfect, thanks. I'll have a look at this next week when I'm back at work

As a tip, follow Jbalat’s guide but don’t bother to solder in a header, simply connect your ST Link wires to a 0.1” pcb header strip, insert the header into the pcb holes, hold the header at an angle to make contact with the pcb’s holes side edges, program.

The LCD is very easy to open, can I suggest putting a thin line of silicon grease along the rubber gasket to ensure it closes correctly and seals from water ingress.

A bit of a complaint on the LCD3 remote keypad, twice now I have over tightened the small screw that tightens the plastic band around the bar to try and get it to grip on the bar. The band has broken when I’ve taken the bike out from the warm garage, into near zero conditions and has shrunk ever so slightly. Can I suggest putting a turn of insulating tape on the bar to give the band something to grip into and require less tension on the screw.

 

[maximusdm]

Hello,

I read the wiki and I have some points unclear.

1. How can you select one of the assist modes and how to select hybrid mode?
Previous version had the modes mutually exclusive so when one is active the other are not. Now the values are used for other features like startup boost.

2. How can I use the EMTB assistance levels?
EMTB it not a standalone mode, but EMTB is like before the last assist level.

3. I set the coaster brake value to 0 since I do not use it. I have brake engaged error. If is set it to default value(25), I get no error.
I think this is caused my torque sensor which has a very low offset to 38 (menu 11/torque value).

 

[mbrusa]

Hello,

I read the wiki and I have some points unclear.

1. How can you select one of the assist modes and how to select hybrid mode?
Previous version had the modes mutually exclusive so when one is active the other are not. Now the values are used for other features like startup boost.

From the LCD3 manual:
- Set assist mode
There are 5 assistance modes available, the choice is in the main screen.
P - POWER ASSIST assistance proportional to the power on the pedals
S - TORQUE ASSIST assistance proportional to the torque on the pedals
C - CADENCE ASSIST assistance subordinated to the movement of the pedals
E - EMTB ASSIST assistance with progressive percentage of the torque on the pedals
H - HYBRID ASSIST combined torque + power assistance
At level 0, ON/OFF button to view the current mode, UP/DOWN button to change, ON/OFF button to confirm. Assistance values for all modes from 1 to 254, for eMTB from 1 to 20.

2. How can I use the EMTB assistance levels?
EMTB it not a standalone mode, but EMTB is like before the last assist level.

EMTB can be set as an autonomous mode that uses all levels (choose E), and as the last level in the other modes.

3. I set the coaster brake value to 0 since I do not use it. I have brake engaged error. If is set it to default value(25), I get no error.
I think this is caused my torque sensor which has a very low offset to 38 (menu 11/torque value).

It's possible, I'll check.

 

[HughF]

Perfect, thanks. I'll have a look at this next week when I'm back at work

As a tip, follow Jbalat’s guide but don’t bother to solder in a header, simply connect your ST Link wires to a 0.1” pcb header strip, insert the header into the pcb holes, hold the header at an angle to make contact with the pcb’s holes side edges, program.

The LCD is very easy to open, can I suggest putting a thin line of silicon grease along the rubber gasket to ensure it closes correctly and seals from water ingress.

A bit of a complaint on the LCD3 remote keypad, twice now I have over tightened the small screw that tightens the plastic band around the bar to try and get it to grip on the bar. The band has broken when I’ve taken the bike out from the warm garage, into near zero conditions and has shrunk ever so slightly. Can I suggest putting a turn of insulating tape on the bar to give the band something to grip into and require less tension on the screw.

Will do, cheers for the Info. I've ordered another St link as my current one has a connector soldered onto it for programming motors through the speed sensor port. Probably be next week before that gets here, then I can try the lcd3

 

[mbrusa]

Hello everybody.
Jeff.page.rides, always attentive and precise, pointed out to me that the 850C display is not mentioned in the title of the thread despite the availability of the bin file, I had omitted it on purpose so as not to induce someone to buy it, and instead orientate on 860C which is much better.
However, I forgot in the opening post to inform those who already have it of this possibility.
Remedy immediately, updated signature.
I take this opportunity to thank Jeff for his collaboration with 860C, not only for the tests but also for his always useful suggestions, but above all for having stimulated me, urged me to adapt the new osf to the 860C display, I never would have thought of doing it.
Thanks to Rydon for the tests with 850C, to Jbalat and Waynemarlow for the tests with LCD3, and the friends of the Italian Jobike forum for the tests with stock display.
Rydon has already written it, I too feel obliged to say thanks to everyone who contributed to osf, starting from Casainho without him there would be none of this, Buba, Marcoq, Stancecoke, kalthekaffe, mspider65, .. it would be an endless list. I close by thanking casainho and all the developers of 860C, a truly exceptional software, I limited myself to reaping what others have sown. Thank you all.

 

[HughF]

With SW102 does not complete the compilation, not having the display to test, I have not investigated the problem.
Maybe someone who has SW102 and is able to compile can try.

Would you like me to send you an sw102 for testing? You can keep it, no charge.

Thank you for the proposal but I would wait, the fw certainly works also with SW102, the problem is just being able to compile, it gave me an error, something about nrf is missing to install, I will try to investigate.
For this I ask if there is anyone available to compile.

I'm an embedded software dev by day, but on Linux - If I can setup the toolchain then I can perhaps try and compile. I only use Ti Code Composer studio on Linux as we target some odd Ti silicon, and on windows we target Atmel so are heavily invested in Atmel studio.

If you can point me towards the toolchain setup then I might be able to help with the compilation.

 

[mbrusa]

Hi HughF,
I managed to compile, I sent you the zip file for SW102 with private message, you can try and if you confirm that it works I release it. Thank you.
The hex file for the motor is the same as for 860C.

 

[Elinx]

Tsdz2 -36V, 250W, display -XH18
I have tested the new version v0.20.1C over a short drive on the flat and windy Dutch roads and am very happy with the improvements.

0.20.1B was already good, but apparently it can be even better.
Especially the status of the setting is a welcome addition to working with a default display.
The boost function works satisfactorily and the hybrid mode could be usefull in more hilly terrain conditions.

I will probably have to lower the torque assist levels, because now I found there is a big difference with hybrid and the boost/power function. Is there anyone who has already done this and wants to share their torque assist settings?

Thanks to mbrusa and other developers who have taken the Tsdz2 to the next level with their efforts.

 

[HughF]

Hi HughF,
I managed to compile, I sent you the zip file for SW102 with private message, you can try and if you confirm that it works I release it. Thank you.
The hex file for the motor is the same as for 860C.

Received via PM, thanks. I will get this tested on Monday evening when I am back in front of my working bicycle (my hardtail mountain bike). The bike I have with me this weekend, although it has an SW102, the motor controller has filled with water and is now scrap :|

 

[AZUR]

Hello everyone,

Thank you mbrusa for all this work.

I am very satisfied and very interested in testing this version of OSF. I hope it solves the problems that the firmware has. I detected and worked to demonstrate, through several videos on YouTube, (and for that I spent many hours) that the engine does not respond immediately when we start pedaling.
This problem happens, when we are pedaling, and without stopping the bike, we stop pedaling and start pedaling again a few moments later. The engine does not respond immediately when you start pedaling.

This problem is especially important when riding mountain trails, where due to the difficulties of the paths, with many obstacles, we have to stop pedaling and press the pedal again to start pedaling a few tenths of a second later.

If the engine does not respond immediately, we can fall to the ground.




In the picture the highest voltage is 52V.
I have 2 bikes, one with a 48V motor and the other with a 36V motor. The batteries have 15S. Which are 15x3.7 = 55.5V or 15x4.2 = 63V.
I know other people who also use 15S batteries.

Can I use the 15S battery? What values ​​should I use? I have an 850 display and an 860 display.

After all the investment I made, in time and money, I was a little unmotivated with the firmware that was available.

I now sincerely hope to be excited again.

Thank you mbrusa

 

[Waynemarlow]

Can I ask a question, why the need to run a 15S battery, it pushes the voltage up into the realms of having to replace the capacitors on the controller, serves no real purpose now that the field weakening is starting to give good cadence up to about 120 rpm and basically makes the batteries more expensive as you have to use specialised BMS’s and chargers.

Wouldn’t the simplest thing be to simply use 48 volts or even 52 volts that most use ?