Whats your best wh/distance?

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calab

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I seem to not get below 37wh/mile (23wh/km) on a ride of steady real pedaling but not over doing it, just keep spinning/pedaling.
The total ride of 18 miles for the 650-700wh battery. Which is what I am down to now since my other battery is down. I feel the range anxiety hit hard and I do not like it one bit, time to throw money at it. Leaf 35h 1500w, 36v and 52v with 36v 35am I hit 239lbs this morning. Aerodynamics are sitting upright, cruiser style, tires are 26x1.95 front hub knobby mtb tread and 700x33 rear smoother.

Measured by Google Maps, not a Cycle Analyst, even though I have owned a C.A. and used it one time, I think. Collecting dust now for 5+ yrs.

On a lazy day, with active lazy pedaling, its very common for me to get 48wh/m or 30wh/km.

Maybe if I really tried my best, made the ebike setup more atuned for road, wore lycra for better aero and pedalled like a madman, maybe 20wh/m (12wh/click)

ps I charge using Satiator which measures my total wh, I did a complete drain and complete fill up when the charge got down to 0.4a charge rate for 650-700wh.

Knowing I get about the same distance with the other battery, its safe to say I got a total of 1300-1500wh at my disposal. I need an additional 1kwh for the times I know I will need it. I dont think its worth it to build an emergency battery of 10s1p of 25r or higher amp discharge sony's.
 
usage seems pretty high. what's your terrain, wind, riding style, speed, bike configuration, bike/rider/etc weight, etc.?

my extremely unaero and very heavy (400-500lbs+ with me on it) sb cruiser trike doesn't use all that much more power, at perhaps 50-60wh/mile, at 20mph max, avg 16-18mph, stop/start traffic, no significant winds or slopes or hills. That's with dual rear hubmotors at 14s (52v) about 80A/4kw peak, about 20A/1kw continuous (depending on conditions). No significant power input from me, my pedalling is too weak to make any contribution anymore (I can ride at about 1mph for a short time when it's geared way way down). .


calab said:
I seem to not get below 37wh/mile (23wh/km) on a ride of steady real pedaling but not over doing it, just keep spinning/pedaling.
The total ride of 18 miles for the 650-700wh battery. Which is what I am down to now since my other battery is down. I feel the range anxiety hit hard and I do not like it one bit, time to throw money at it. Leaf 35h 1500w, 36v and 52v with 36v 35am I hit 239lbs this morning. Aerodynamics are sitting upright, cruiser style, tires are 26x1.95 front hub knobby mtb tread and 700x33 rear smoother.

Measured by Google Maps, not a Cycle Analyst, even though I have owned a C.A. and used it one time, I think. Collecting dust now for 5+ yrs.

On a lazy day, with active lazy pedaling, its very common for me to get 48wh/m or 30wh/km.

Maybe if I really tried my best, made the ebike setup more atuned for road, wore lycra for better aero and pedalled like a madman, maybe 20wh/m (12wh/click)

ps I charge using Satiator which measures my total wh, I did a complete drain and complete fill up when the charge got down to 0.4a charge rate for 650-700wh.

Knowing I get about the same distance with the other battery, its safe to say I got a total of 1300-1500wh at my disposal. I need an additional 1kwh for the times I know I will need it. I dont think its worth it to build an emergency battery of 10s1p of 25r or higher amp discharge sony's.
Click to expand...
 
Disclaimer, Many don't call this ebiking, but we got nowhere to go.

My wife gets about 7WH/mile. I have a 48V10AH pack on her bike. I don't normally track it, One time last year, she tacked up 45 miles, and my wattmeter said it took 6.4AH to recharge the battery, Bike has a 20A controller and a Q100H motor with average speed of 11.7 mph, and 120 pound rider. KT LCD3 display says about 110 watts being used,

I've found that I'm around 10-12 WH/mile at the same speeds, measured across several different motors and bikes, but it doesn't change. I'm 200 lb (oink). I'm using 120-140 watts.

Running my BBS02 on throttle only, around 16-18 mph, I think that draws 20-25 wh/mile,
 
For test runs, its always flat.

When I leave the house its down hill for 1.5miles at 2-4%, then I stick to flat terrain along the river which has 20' of 8-12% that I coast up.

Asphalt path with sections of bad bump cracks.

Throttle is steady, pedaling is always steady. I keep track of the normal rides I do but for a total ride average those are my #'s posted in the first post. Speed is important, I did runs at wot knowing the drain will happen but I wanted to know how far. The faster I go, the less I can ride.
Wot distance was so short, it was a joke.

All my riding is done mostly at 15-20mph, with short bursts of 20-25mph to pass, or a run up to a hill.

I am going to make it a goal of mine to try to dip down below 20wh/mile. Should be a great workout! :thumb:
The hardest for me will be getting into the 12wh/mile area, but these are the games I play to achieve a great workout and lose weight.
Not having a vehicle is great for fitness, if I have a lot of time on my hands. If I had a vehicle, I'd be lazy pretty quick.
 
Absolute best economical consumption, for me, is at 5-15% throttle, 84% efficient, 15-20mph, and consumption of 22-30wH/mile. At this rate my pack is forecast to provide 90+ miles of riding. Zero human input. About 3-5A @ 72v nominal. Average around 300-400 watts.1800wH pack.

105lb bike, 180lb. rider.
 
calab said:
...I stick to flat terrain along the river...
Click to expand...
Riding along a river by definition is either an ascent (upriver) or descent (downriver). Otherwise it would be a lake! :lol:
 
I wonder if there's a computational error here, or incorrect assumptions about battery capacity, something like that.

15-20mph with pedaling ... you can see on the motor simulator, you're supposed to be able to expect 27wh/m WOT at 26mph. Cut back to 2/3 throttle, 18mph, and cut that in half. I do maybe a little better with a similar setup, similar except that my aero profile is better and I have road tires.
 
True, but there are always lots of little small 5' slight gradients going up and down, I've done tests coming and going.
Having elevation gain info would be nice, or a tracking gps/map for speeds to upload to the forum.
Nope, I just eyeball it, back of the napkin maths, which my maths aint up to snuff lately. English/Grammar skills, different story.

For the other guys computational error post, I have traced my exact same route on the Trip Simulator and its not the same.
I could be out of the efficiency range for the motor winding and speeds I ride, I know I need more windings for my slower speeds, but I do not want to limit the 4% of the time I hit wot for giggles.
With all the small hills, and un-even throttle, un-even pedaling could just all add up. So yes, not flat.

99t4 said:
calab said:
...I stick to flat terrain along the river...
Click to expand...
Riding along a river by definition is either an ascent (upriver) or descent (downriver). Otherwise it would be a lake! :lol:
Click to expand...
 
A monster of an LWB semi-recumbent, overall weight a bit south of 350lbs, single stage belt drive:

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/96665315

7.5wh/km, thats 12 wh/mile, average moving speed ~20 mph.

That's not particularly fast by ebike standards, and I pedal pretty much all the time though, cause I'm more of a 'plain' cyclist and I need that excercise... but not 'hard', and assist completely takes away extra effort for the... well, not hills, more like 'terrain undulations' that we have here :) But given the overall weight, the feel like damn mountains unassisted.

My current battery is 30Ah 8S LIfepo, so theoretially I can keep that up for about 100 km which I intend to do soon.
Next goal is installing a couple of solar panels and having nearly unlimited range.
 
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