High amp Anderson connectors arcwelded shut?!

E

ebike_rocket

10 mW
Joined
Jun 16, 2011
Messages
28
OK,

So, in this on going saga of my orange beast, after a lot of advice regarding connectors, I purchased a set of 40 amp anderson pole connectors. Still had a small spark on connection, but it worked fine... until today. I did a quick run of about 6 miles, and came back to find that the connectors permanently arc welded themselves together. Anderson connectors.

Any suggestions? Maybe I should get rid of connectors all together and get a big ass circuit breaker switch?
 
I second what "Ypedal" said. And his tutorial is great.

I've been using Anderson connectors for years, run 1500 watts, 60 volts lipo and never had them fail either.

Just replace them, and try again, good luck.
 
Yeah, some kind of problem happened, It could be a poor crimp, or a conector backed out of the housing. Once it's making a high resistance contact the connector melts for sure.

I've seen the same thing on construction site extension cords many many many times. One thing wrong with the plug and it gets flaming hot.
 
You're doing something badly wrong.
 
They're crap. Don't use em. There are those that swear by them ( I used to be one), and those that have many problems with them. Not worth the risk/hassle. Use 4mm bullets, xt60's, xt150's, ec5's. Anything but andersons.
 
Not since I've stopped using andersons.
 
Andersons work fine if you use a proper crimping tool. I've used them for over a decade without any issues.
 
These connectors can be poorly assembled and lead to poor results. You need to understand what you're doing and the basic connectors design.

I've been running 45A PP's on just about everything for years. I have them on my current bike all around, and run 160A phase current through them, they don't even get warm.

They are a very good connector, but I have witnessed people assemble them absolutely horribly. If the contact is misinformed, bent, crooked, covered in solder, or the shell is deformed/melted, things wont work well.
Bullet plugs are hard to screw up, and sure are cheap, but they are an inferior connector, electrically and mechanically.
 
As others have stated, there are a few things that can cause issues with an Anderson connector, they can actually be quite a fussy connector to get right, you do need to take care and be aware of a few important things, but if done properly they are very good.

IMO, if there has been an issue with an anderson connection it can almost definitely be traced back to a not so perfect assembly job or using them well beyond their spec. Also the spec is only valid with a specified wire gauge and in free air.
 
You can't have any solder excess on the connector. They should go together fairly easily with a click when inserted.If difficult to assemble expect problems. I'm running 28s 5p a123 methods 100v 100a controller.
 
I used to be completely sold on andersons for everything. I still am for any connection that sparks as you connect for sure.

But I did have to learn to do them right. How to tweak the spring back up occasionally, how to bend the tip back down occasionally, how to tell when it's clicked in solid, when it appears clicked in but can still wiggle loose, and how to crimp them so you got a good solid connection without any projecting metal that interfered with the connector going into the housing.

I don't see much benifit anymore though, in converting all your lipo packs to andersons. Just having a few conversion plugs with a bullet on one end, and andersons on the end to connect to the controller is not a bad way to go. Or have the resistor on the controller to limit the spark.

The one time I had an anderson overheat, it was at 36v also, 800w, and the contact was backed out of the housing. When I ran 26s 40 amps, I went through every single connector very carefully, and never had a hot connector at 4000 w.

No matter what connector type is used, the same rule of better be right applies or it will melt.
 
Look at how many amps I put through my Anderson's....
You need to make sure you don't have china knock off Anderson's (yes they exist)
[youtube]5N_GWgJ6yUI[/youtube]
 
If you're unable to assemble Anderson connectors properly and then claim they're crap, you probably have no business working with RC Lipo.
 
Ykick said:
If you're unable to assemble Anderson connectors properly and then claim they're crap, you probably have no business working with RC Lipo.
Click to expand...
+1
 

Or have the resistor on the controller to limit the spark.
Click to expand...

Ykick wrote:If you're unable to assemble Anderson connectors properly and then claim they're crap, you probably have no business working with RC Lipo.


+1
Click to expand...

They should come with a warning on the bag; WILL NOT WORK IF IMPROPERLY INSTALLED.

If you do a shitty job doing a bullet connector, you just get a high resistance connection or it falls apart. If an anderson fails, it's melted and welded. Fun.
 
It's not the crimping method. I use the $45 crimper. It's everything dogman listed above. Just not worth the hassle. Anytime you need to bend the connector a bit to get a solid connection, that is time wasted. There are plenty of other connectors that are fairly hassle free. I just don't see the point in using andersons unless they are low voltage, non-critical connections. In my opinion they have no business on phase wires, or battery connections (except a no spark connection). In your opinion, I'm doing it wrong. WHEN you have issues with them, be sure to post up.
 
Again, as I said before, ANY kind of plug can melt down if it's got high resistance. However, I have noticed that anderson housings do melt at a fairly low temperature. But so will the cheap plastic covers for 4 mm bullets if you have an issue with them. With bullets though, you can use heatshrink if you like.

Nevertheless, I'm going back to bullets on all future lipo and if an anderson is needed I'll use an adapter. I too, am tired of having to fuss with so many andersons. There are quite a few ways they can go wrong. I still like em fine on the bike itself though, for phase connections and connecting to the battery.
 
I too don't think Andersons are worth the trouble.

I just use whatever connector that comes with the battery for building the Battery pack and ec5 connectors for pack to controller with 5.5mm sprung connectors for phase wires.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9194__EC5_5mm_Connector_Pair_.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9763__Polymax_5_5mm_Gold_Connectors_10_pairs_set_.html
 
I hated APPs and thought I'd only ever need bullets, but after building a bunch of fun electronics projects I see the value of an easy to disconnect sexless connector.

That being said, on an ebike I think the only place they have is on a beginners bike or on the charging harness. Even for that x60s can be used and are better for the application and cheaper.
 
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