xyster
10 MW
Weird can be cool too, but "crystalyte killer" 
Noooooo....
Noooooo....
Cooling, ruggedizing, the Unite MY1018 motor
- Thread starter Reid Welch
- Start date
Geebee
1 kW
It's a Crystalyte killer if you look at the go for dough.
Reid Welch
1 MW
Gratified that GeeBee and D-man get the joke:
To get the go for little dough....uh oh:
the basic Currie cost exactly, to within ten dollars,
exactly what the new lipo pack cost!
And I did my homework on that pack: BatterySpace's price for the assembled pack with PCM is no more than the cost of the component parts;
most of which (the cells) are sold at higher prices to the RC folks.
----------
The bike has been a great deal of fun and adventure, meeting new people here and also during the many rides. Invaluable.
I am happy. Greedy, but happy. More AH......
choo! Excuse that please.
:lol:
To get the go for little dough....uh oh:
the basic Currie cost exactly, to within ten dollars,
exactly what the new lipo pack cost!
And I did my homework on that pack: BatterySpace's price for the assembled pack with PCM is no more than the cost of the component parts;
most of which (the cells) are sold at higher prices to the RC folks.
----------
The bike has been a great deal of fun and adventure, meeting new people here and also during the many rides. Invaluable.
I am happy. Greedy, but happy. More AH......
choo! Excuse that please.
:lol:
Scooterman
10 µW
That is one wild looking setup! (Now where does the dry ice go in???) 
Reid Welch
1 MW
ha ha, yes, we'll have to do some trials at the running track.
Joking aside, the ventilated motor offers opportunity for semi-controlled experiments of chilled air feed, like from ice cubes; and dampened chilled air, like on the swamp cooler principle. With the Drain Brain it should be possible to -see- the effects on the running--cold air on, do a lap, cold air off, do a lap, that sort of thing.
=Have ordered a spare motor from TNC Scooters
=Will take Matt's suggestion to heart and order on Monday a 36V Currie controller (the red "long range" bike) because it will have something of a lower current rating--easier on the new battery. And it will be less liable to short out, being a 36V controller.
Thanks all for bearing along with my jokings.
Maybe a few pictures if I can find them in the old thread.
"Ruggedizing" means here that the loose-fit ball bearings were all secured to the shafts with a bit of bearing mount loctite. The OD's were not left a floating, slip fit; they were very slightly glued with rubbery, inert "Perfect Glue".
This act stopped the motor from making occasional squeals and squeaks.
The Gear Case of the motor was provided with two 8/32 holes, so that soft synthetic moly grease could be pumped though; even changed out if that's wanted. The holes are sealed by a regular faucet washer (compression type) with its screw. Simple and greasetight.
The motor was gently aligned by ear on assembly of the case halves;
there is some slight wiggle room in setting the front and rear plates, which
affect the mesh of the pinion to the reduction gear. This is the critical part of making a quieter motor--set it for minimum noise whilst running the motor unloaded on 6 or 12 V. Do that before greasing the gear case.
Oh, use a dental syringe or similar, to pump grease into the case.
Leave the screw plugs OFF until the motor has run idle and hot for while,
so the excess grease may self-eject. The remaining excess of grease will eject in time from the output shaft, after which no more grease will leak.
I have not greased this motor since its assembly hundreds of miles ago.
Seems not to be any need. The gear mesh has settled in to fine, relatively quiet fit. Spur gearing always makes some noise. Usually spur gears of hard steel on hard steel, as these are, are -very noisy-.
However, if you get the first fit "ideal", then do not disturb that fit ever again if you can avoid that. In time, the mesh may polish out to become
very quiet under modest loads. In this respect, the gear motor is much like the Model T transmissons I used to operate: Planetary spur gears.
Most sound like coffee grinders in low gear. But a few, even with countless miles on them, are virtually silent in low gear. We don't why,
luck of the draw. Same here to some extent with the Unite. But get the mesh right (feel the backlash out), and let it run in and never take it apart again. Because you'll lose the wear pattern, pretty surely.
---
Joking aside, the ventilated motor offers opportunity for semi-controlled experiments of chilled air feed, like from ice cubes; and dampened chilled air, like on the swamp cooler principle. With the Drain Brain it should be possible to -see- the effects on the running--cold air on, do a lap, cold air off, do a lap, that sort of thing.
=Have ordered a spare motor from TNC Scooters
=Will take Matt's suggestion to heart and order on Monday a 36V Currie controller (the red "long range" bike) because it will have something of a lower current rating--easier on the new battery. And it will be less liable to short out, being a 36V controller.
Thanks all for bearing along with my jokings.
Maybe a few pictures if I can find them in the old thread.
"Ruggedizing" means here that the loose-fit ball bearings were all secured to the shafts with a bit of bearing mount loctite. The OD's were not left a floating, slip fit; they were very slightly glued with rubbery, inert "Perfect Glue".
This act stopped the motor from making occasional squeals and squeaks.
The Gear Case of the motor was provided with two 8/32 holes, so that soft synthetic moly grease could be pumped though; even changed out if that's wanted. The holes are sealed by a regular faucet washer (compression type) with its screw. Simple and greasetight.
The motor was gently aligned by ear on assembly of the case halves;
there is some slight wiggle room in setting the front and rear plates, which
affect the mesh of the pinion to the reduction gear. This is the critical part of making a quieter motor--set it for minimum noise whilst running the motor unloaded on 6 or 12 V. Do that before greasing the gear case.
Oh, use a dental syringe or similar, to pump grease into the case.
Leave the screw plugs OFF until the motor has run idle and hot for while,
so the excess grease may self-eject. The remaining excess of grease will eject in time from the output shaft, after which no more grease will leak.
I have not greased this motor since its assembly hundreds of miles ago.
Seems not to be any need. The gear mesh has settled in to fine, relatively quiet fit. Spur gearing always makes some noise. Usually spur gears of hard steel on hard steel, as these are, are -very noisy-.
However, if you get the first fit "ideal", then do not disturb that fit ever again if you can avoid that. In time, the mesh may polish out to become
very quiet under modest loads. In this respect, the gear motor is much like the Model T transmissons I used to operate: Planetary spur gears.
Most sound like coffee grinders in low gear. But a few, even with countless miles on them, are virtually silent in low gear. We don't why,
luck of the draw. Same here to some extent with the Unite. But get the mesh right (feel the backlash out), and let it run in and never take it apart again. Because you'll lose the wear pattern, pretty surely.
---
Reid Welch
1 MW
Humor break again. In the old thread
when the bike was first put over to 36V and the first version blower was fitted,
my cousin Hartford Tommy made a video review of the bike's upgraded performance.
Tommy is a special case....
when the bike was first put over to 36V and the first version blower was fitted,
my cousin Hartford Tommy made a video review of the bike's upgraded performance.
Tommy is a special case....
xyster
10 MW
Apparently...
his Jewish-Cuban accent is quite unique.
Nice video :lol: but I'd like to know: what happened to the screaming 48v Blue Mongoose?
Can you or one of your many errr..."friends" run a test of the little unite at 48 volts with a 48v brushed controller for us?
http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=101215
Is that too much to ask?
After all, you live in Florida and restore old cars, you must be swimming in money ...
bluthermal
1 W
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2008
- Messages
- 58
I'm wondering where I might find one of those blowers like at the beginning of this thread. I'm also wondering exactly what I need to do (electrical circuit wise) to run either a 24V blower or 12V fan, like in this thread, when the power off the brushed controller is from a 39V LiFeP04 Ping battery. I don't know how to step it down properly. I remember seeing an example of a blower somewhere in Endless-Sphere, possibly from fechter, but I have been unable to find it again.
TylerDurden
100 GW
Fechter has a blower on his vego.
A DC-DC convertor can run the blower... that's better than tapping a cell, which will un-balance the pack.
A DC-DC convertor can run the blower... that's better than tapping a cell, which will un-balance the pack.
Hello all my name is Ross,
First I thought I would introduce myself. I am new to this forum and have been away from electric (scooters, bikes) for a while. I started out on the Zappy forum 5 or 6 years ago and monkeyed around with a foldable z-cruiser. It was perfect for my bus commute. The buses were great north-south but not east-west. I would take the express for the distance and then hop off for a short 1-3 mile scoot where ever I needed to go. 8) Eventually I changed jobs, bought a truck and my scooter started collecting dust. But these days I am excited again about electric vehicles and have determined to have some kind of alternative to my fossil fuel burner. I have really appreciated this forum's members and all the advice, photos and know how that is given on this forum. So... I thought I would try to add to the bulk of knowledge in some way. I hope this is the right place to post this project. It seems relevant to what Reid has done and I hope it adds to his discussion.
The bike I bought on Craigslist is a Mongoose mountain bike that runs a Currie 450 Watt (read 250 Watts apparently) chain drive motor. Inspired by what Reid has done, I decided to come up with my own version. Instead of just having open holes, I decided to have sealed brass fittings and clear air tubes to supply the air to the back of the motor. The reason being that it's often wet here and I don't want the motor sucking in rainwater and road dirt and reducing the life of the motor. So here is my little "how to cool your motor" explanation.
Since this if my first post, I am hoping that I get the photos right. Here goes...
-Before drilling the ventilation holes, cover the drive shaft/gear box hole with tape to prevent metal shavings from going in.
-I drilled four 1/2 inch holes on the inside case to add brass fittings.
-I drilled 5/16 eight holes towards the center and seven 7/32 holes around the edges. No particular ventilation flow theory here, just puting in as many holes as I could with out removing the motor brush plate. *Be very careful if you do it this way by checking and double checking where exactly you will be drilling from one side to the other. And restrain your drill pressure and immediately back off as soon as you make it through the aluminum. Otherwise you will end up blasting through the brush plate and could damage it. Once through the aluminum, I finished drilling through the brush plate with the very lightest of pressure.
-Here is the 80 mm cooling fan. Compliments of my local computer guy down the street for free. It pulls less than 1 amp of power.
-Here is the PlumbQuick 4" to 4" rubber fitting (Model # P1056-44 by Fernco) that I found at the local hardware store (True Value) for the fan housing. It fits over the outside of the casing perfect!(http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexible ... -couplings)
-Here is the other plastic fitting that fits just inside the 4" to 4" rubber fitting. It's ABS plastic 3" to 4" connector.
-These are the brass pipe fittings that I used. They were the largest that would fit in between the case fins.
-Clear plastic tubing.
-7/16 brass fitting tap. Perhaps not entirely necessary, but small amount of threads that you put in the holes helps hold the fittings in place while the epoxy is setting up. You will have to fiddle with where the thread starts are to make them work right.
-Make sure that when mounting and glueing the pieces that the fittings do not extend beyond the inside face of the motor case. You don't want the winding hitting the ends of the tubes and causing damage.
-Top view of a couple of the fittings. I chopped the end of one off one and shaved to tops of the rest because I thought I might have a clearance issue. Turned out not to be. Make sure that you don't end up gluing the fittings in a direction that won't work or you don't like. Check it first by holding it back up the the black steel motor mounting.
-The CRC Minute Mend two part puddy epoxy that I used. I love this stuff because it's not really messy and all you have to do is just slice off a chuck and kneed it together until it's fully mixed. I recommend using some latex gloves to keep it off your fingers.
-Fittings epoxied into place.
-Side view of a couple of the fittings.
-Here I cut half of the fan shroud with the dremel tool. Not pretty, but it works. *Make sure you know which way the fan blows and don't cut the wrong side.
-I cut the 4" to 3" abs adapter so the fan would sit back into the rubber fan shroud and shield it from water.
-Here is the foam gasket I used to seal the fan to the 4" to 3" adapter.
-And here is the computer fan/foam gasket matchup.
And here is the final product. I ran the clear tubes up to short length of 1 1/2" OD plastic plumbing tubing with some barbed 1/4" and threaded black plastic fittings.
I still need to get a voltage reducer for the fan and hook it up but it's mostly finished. Smartly I decided to add the fan cooling first before overvolting the motor so I wouldn't toast it.
Let me know what you think. I think the whole overvoltin thing would be all around more successful with fan cooling. Heck, run a tube to the controller and pull air through that too. I might try that next.
First I thought I would introduce myself. I am new to this forum and have been away from electric (scooters, bikes) for a while. I started out on the Zappy forum 5 or 6 years ago and monkeyed around with a foldable z-cruiser. It was perfect for my bus commute. The buses were great north-south but not east-west. I would take the express for the distance and then hop off for a short 1-3 mile scoot where ever I needed to go. 8) Eventually I changed jobs, bought a truck and my scooter started collecting dust. But these days I am excited again about electric vehicles and have determined to have some kind of alternative to my fossil fuel burner. I have really appreciated this forum's members and all the advice, photos and know how that is given on this forum. So... I thought I would try to add to the bulk of knowledge in some way. I hope this is the right place to post this project. It seems relevant to what Reid has done and I hope it adds to his discussion.
The bike I bought on Craigslist is a Mongoose mountain bike that runs a Currie 450 Watt (read 250 Watts apparently) chain drive motor. Inspired by what Reid has done, I decided to come up with my own version. Instead of just having open holes, I decided to have sealed brass fittings and clear air tubes to supply the air to the back of the motor. The reason being that it's often wet here and I don't want the motor sucking in rainwater and road dirt and reducing the life of the motor. So here is my little "how to cool your motor" explanation.
Since this if my first post, I am hoping that I get the photos right. Here goes...
-Before drilling the ventilation holes, cover the drive shaft/gear box hole with tape to prevent metal shavings from going in.
-I drilled four 1/2 inch holes on the inside case to add brass fittings.
-I drilled 5/16 eight holes towards the center and seven 7/32 holes around the edges. No particular ventilation flow theory here, just puting in as many holes as I could with out removing the motor brush plate. *Be very careful if you do it this way by checking and double checking where exactly you will be drilling from one side to the other. And restrain your drill pressure and immediately back off as soon as you make it through the aluminum. Otherwise you will end up blasting through the brush plate and could damage it. Once through the aluminum, I finished drilling through the brush plate with the very lightest of pressure.
-Here is the 80 mm cooling fan. Compliments of my local computer guy down the street for free. It pulls less than 1 amp of power.
-Here is the PlumbQuick 4" to 4" rubber fitting (Model # P1056-44 by Fernco) that I found at the local hardware store (True Value) for the fan housing. It fits over the outside of the casing perfect!(http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexible ... -couplings)
-Here is the other plastic fitting that fits just inside the 4" to 4" rubber fitting. It's ABS plastic 3" to 4" connector.
-These are the brass pipe fittings that I used. They were the largest that would fit in between the case fins.
-Clear plastic tubing.
-7/16 brass fitting tap. Perhaps not entirely necessary, but small amount of threads that you put in the holes helps hold the fittings in place while the epoxy is setting up. You will have to fiddle with where the thread starts are to make them work right.
-Make sure that when mounting and glueing the pieces that the fittings do not extend beyond the inside face of the motor case. You don't want the winding hitting the ends of the tubes and causing damage.
-Top view of a couple of the fittings. I chopped the end of one off one and shaved to tops of the rest because I thought I might have a clearance issue. Turned out not to be. Make sure that you don't end up gluing the fittings in a direction that won't work or you don't like. Check it first by holding it back up the the black steel motor mounting.
-The CRC Minute Mend two part puddy epoxy that I used. I love this stuff because it's not really messy and all you have to do is just slice off a chuck and kneed it together until it's fully mixed. I recommend using some latex gloves to keep it off your fingers.
-Fittings epoxied into place.
-Side view of a couple of the fittings.
-Here I cut half of the fan shroud with the dremel tool. Not pretty, but it works. *Make sure you know which way the fan blows and don't cut the wrong side.
-I cut the 4" to 3" abs adapter so the fan would sit back into the rubber fan shroud and shield it from water.
-Here is the foam gasket I used to seal the fan to the 4" to 3" adapter.
-And here is the computer fan/foam gasket matchup.
And here is the final product. I ran the clear tubes up to short length of 1 1/2" OD plastic plumbing tubing with some barbed 1/4" and threaded black plastic fittings.
I still need to get a voltage reducer for the fan and hook it up but it's mostly finished. Smartly I decided to add the fan cooling first before overvolting the motor so I wouldn't toast it.
Let me know what you think. I think the whole overvoltin thing would be all around more successful with fan cooling. Heck, run a tube to the controller and pull air through that too. I might try that next.
I decided after opening the controller and seeing what looks like two thick wires off the controller burning the potting material with the standard 24 Volts, that I should include controller cooling as well. The smaller tube will tie in with one of the larger tubes.
For those who made it here for cooling this particular motor, I later saw this thread after I tacked mine on the end of Reid's. TylerDurden did a way better job than me on hole drilling and he even cut fins in the casing.
Check it out.
Another Cooling a Currie/Mongoose/Unite MY1018Z thread
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2163&p=28218#p28218
Check it out.
Another Cooling a Currie/Mongoose/Unite MY1018Z thread
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2163&p=28218#p28218
vanilla ice
1 MW
Nice. Needs some matte black spray paint.
Add a water mister to spray in to the pvc intake manifold when you go WFO.
Add a water mister to spray in to the pvc intake manifold when you go WFO.
