Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

I wouldn't buy any controllers from leafbike. Every controller they've sold has been very low quality and low efficiency. You will probably be unhappy with it both short and long term.

Do consider just buying a completed wheel and match a much better controller to it.
 
Does Leaf ever off sales better than their current $50 off a $349 purchase?

Thanks
 
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Does anyone know where to get replacement bearings for this motor, and any guides on removal/installation?

I have a Leafbike 1500W 4T in my mountainbike conversion, with over 20k miles on it from previous use in an electric velomobile build including in rain/snow/salt/thunderstorms/ect. The bearings are shot and make significant resistance, and I can hear them grinding. I took the motor apart and determined the cause is the bearings.
 
The Toecutter said:
Does anyone know where to get replacement bearings for this motor, and any guides on removal/installation?

I have a Leafbike 1500W 4T in my mountainbike conversion, with over 20k miles on it from previous use in an electric velomobile build including in rain/snow/salt/thunderstorms/ect. The bearings are shot and make significant resistance, and I can hear them grinding. I took the motor apart and determined the cause is the bearings.
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I'm interested in this too. I think my motor has had a bad bearing since I bought it. The symptoms only show up when accelerating while going around a curve, making a slight grinding/rubbing sort of sound. I haven't notice resistance; the wheel is true with no tire rubbing, etc.
 
E-HP said:
I'm interested in this too. I think my motor has had a bad bearing since I bought it. The symptoms only show up when accelerating while going around a curve, making a slight grinding/rubbing sort of sound. I haven't notice resistance; the wheel is true with no tire rubbing, etc.
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Ball bearing identification is usually molded on the seal, small, but readable. Typically starts with "6" (i.e. 6902 or 6204). 2RS following the number usually means two seals (one on each side).

The last 2 digits in the 6xxx number typically indicates bore diameter. Ball bearings with a bore diameter of 10, 12, 15 or 17 mm have the following size code identifications:

00 = 10 mm
01 = 12 mm
02 = 15 mm
03 = 17 mm
 
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Here's the rotor side housing bearing in a MXUS F15 (front hub). Bearing #6001. Google found numerous retailers for this bearing.

Bearing-MxusF15.jpg

Component manufactures' outsource common items, such as bearings. Then they issue their own PN, and resell it reaping a tidy profit. If the hub was manufactured in Asia, it could easily have bottom-of-the-barrel bearings installed. Just match the bearing PN, and purchase quality (for likely less $) from reputable bearing suppliers/manufacturer.
 
Bullfrog said:
Is there another 72v controller anyone would recommend?

Thank You :)
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Depends upon what power requirements you have. But anything 3 kW peak or below, you can't go wrong with a Grin Phaserunner. It's an FOC controller and you can easily configure it for whatever application you want. It also does 96A peak phase current, which is plenty for this motor.
 
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The Toecutter said:
Depends upon what power requirements you have. But anything 3 kW peak or below, you can't go wrong with a Grin Phaserunner. It's an FOC controller and you can easily configure it for whatever application you want. It also does 90A peak phase current, which is plenty for this motor.
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Thanks...the Phaserunner is a good option but I would like to supply at least 50A (battery) and 150A (Phase) as well as use a 72v battery so I am probably not going with the Phaserunner.

Any additional suggestions from anyone? Thanks
 
I'd also recommend a VESC. Perhaps the Flipsky 72200 Pro ? or something along those parameters.
 
Bullfrog said:
Thanks...the Phaserunner is a good option but I would like to supply at least 50A (battery) and 150A (Phase) as well as use a 72v battery so I am probably not going with the Phaserunner.

Any additional suggestions from anyone? Thanks
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I’m using this dumb sabvoton clone with a Cycle Analyst in front of it. Mine came with a lower current cap than advertised, so I shunt modded it to 91A but keep it capped to a 7kW max using the CA. I bought a second for backup, since they were cheaper then with no shipping charge. With the Leaf, it’s unrideable without the CA to tame the throttle, just as a warning.


 
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For reference, the bearings on my 2020 Leafbike 1500W 4T cassette-compatible motor are labelled as 6902 RS on the drive side of the aluminum case plate. The bearings inside the cassette freehub are the smaller 6901 RS.
 
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Guys....Thanks for the replies regarding 72v controllers.

I bought a 4T Leaf motor kit and plan to start with my 52v battery just to see how well it works. I already have a 72v battery as well and I'll try it eventually.

Another question...is anybody running Automatic Transmission Fluid as a coolant? If yes, have you been able to keep it from leaking?

Thanks again.
 
I'm trying to remember the consensus on ATF vs Statorade? I kinda remember Justin testing both side by side by who knows where that test is, probably somewhere in that 86 page thread, but I'm not sure and I can think of reasons why both would be better. Although the question of if ATF is only slightly better is it worth the added mess and sealing issues?
 
Bullfrog said:
Another question...is anybody running Automatic Transmission Fluid as a coolant? If yes, have you been able to keep it from leaking?
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ATF can gradually eat certain things and i don't suggest that route.

The motor is very efficient and climbing mountains is the main reason you'd ever need cooling. Statorade would certainly suffice.
 
One thing to consider is that ferrofluid will be held between the rotor and stator by the magnets. Not only will ATF cause corrosion of sensitive components in the motor, it isn't going to stay put.

Use Ferrofluid so that you minimize potential problems. It's worth the extra $20. Better than having to repair or replace a $300 motor.
 
I have used ATF in my MAC for years and no problems with deteriorating anything. ATF is very inert. The only thing it will attack is something made from petroleum that has a very similar chemical composition like some types of O-rings but now most "good" O-rings are made out of FKM/Viton so not a problem.

On the other hand, I did have a problem with leakage on my rear brake rotor...it doesn't take much ATF to destroy your brake pads...and that can get exciting, put on brakes and it feels like my bike goes faster.

I also measured the wattage consumption with and without ATF and as long as I kept it around 5-5.5 ounces of ATF in the motor, there was NOT any measurable drag...in a MAC you have to have that much to thermally couple the stator to the shell. A lot less would work for a Direct Drive motor.

Ferro fluid has a significant advantage if it is easier to keep in the motor but I don't have any hands on experience with Ferrofluid...yet.

I plan to pull my motor open and see how well it is sealed then decide whether to go with ATF or Ferrofluid.

Thanks to all for the input :).
 
Ferrofluid in a DD is supposedly leak-free in DD motors.

Surprised to hear you have multiple years of ATF in a mac without issues other than the classic ATF leaking issue.

Opticool seems has better materials compatibility than ATF, but for MACs, materials compatibility seems good enough. It doesn't have inherent lubricating properties like ATF though, and also nobody on our forum has tried it.
 
neptronix said:
Opticool seems has better materials compatibility than ATF, but for MACs, materials compatibility seems good enough. It doesn't have inherent lubricating properties like ATF though, and also nobody on our forum has tried it.
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I've been thinking of maybe in the future oil cooling my G062s and was thinking a low viscosity silicone oil with a nylon gears on steel suitable wear/friction additive like PTFE would be a good option for better material compatibility and lubricity. The Leaf is getting Statorade though.
 
neptronix said:
Ferrofluid in a DD is supposedly leak-free in DD motors.

Surprised to hear you have multiple years of ATF in a mac without issues other than the classic ATF leaking issue.

Opticool seems has better materials compatibility than ATF, but for MACs, materials compatibility seems good enough. It doesn't have inherent lubricating properties like ATF though, and also nobody on our forum has tried it.
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Although ATF or other coolents have been used to keep the motor from melting, I’m wondering how quickly the motor cools. With Staorade, I see the motor cool down at about 1C per second initially, with around a 30C drop within a couple of minutes. I’m wondering how quickly the temps drop when your coolent is hot, since liquids retain more heat than air inside the motor.
 
neptronix said:
Ferrofluid in a DD is supposedly leak-free in DD motors.
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I dont' have any links, but there are some posts around here about motors where all the FF / SA "disappeared" over time, and it had to be refilled.

There are also some where it was suspected that something in the FF / SA degraded the glue/etc securing the rotor magnets.

I don't recall the conclusions in any specific cases though.
 
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