Recent content by athflying

Just as a follow-up, I was able to fix the issue. The sensor has just a little Freeplay and apparently it had slid forward just a touch.i slid it back the PAS is back to normal. Took a 10 mile ride and was cruising between 25-30 mph no problem. ....until I hit a screw. Went right through the...

I have the setup in my sig with the exception of just getting a new 48V 13.5 amh battery from Luna Cycle in the same style "Dolphin" case. Prior to this battery, everything worked great except one morning the old battery wouldn't power up and with some help from the board found the battery had...

Awesome thanks...yes it's a 48V unit

I bought this a couple years ago (also in my sig) https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery...r-battery.html and it's powering Hub Q100h w/S-LCD3. The battery lasted less than 6 months. Life kind of got in the way and basically that pack is trash now. I want to replace the battery, I believe this is...

Assuming that was my root problem, would that keep the pack from powering up or just run at reduced capacity? What are my options for a direct replacement that would plug in to existing wiring if it's completely toast?

I finally was able to do this today. Here is what I got below: B1 - 0.2 B2 - 4.3 B3 - 8.3 B4 - 8.2 B5 - 12.3 B6 - 16.4 B7 - 20.5 B8 - 24.5 B9 - 28.4 B10 - 32.5 B11 - 36.6 B12 - 40.7 B13 - 44.7 I am guessing there is a problem at B1 and B4. Looks like each new pin should increase by about 4 volts.

So I had a baby and this project went to the back burner. I would like to get my bike back up and running. Is the battery toast from sitting so long?

What are my options at this point?? If nothing happens when the switch is jumped, assuming something in the BMS is bad?? I would rather not spend another $3-400 if just the board is bad.

Mine looks the same. I tried that before and no change, but not fully knowing what I was doing, didn't go any further. Just tried again and no change in voltage with that jumped.

I was going to, but knowing so little about the internals I didn't want to break anything and make it worse. What is the best way to do so? If I find out the switch is bad, then what?

Because it reads 53V where the charger connects but only 4V out to the bike. Also the button no longer lights up when the battery is switched on.

Checked the connector where the charger connects to the circuit board and it reads 53V. So I think it's not the charger but the BMS itself or the switch that activates the battery.

Ok....didn't even charge 10 minutes, green light kicked on and fan on charger off. Battery reading just over 4V. So does this mean the charger is trash??

Just now getting back around to this. Haven't touched since last post. I am getting 3.65V at the battery terminal to motor. Started charging and fairly quickly got to 4V. Will check again once charged.

So before I break anything or make a bad situation worse. Where do I jump the switch at?? I am getting 3.72 volts at the connector that goes to the motor. I jumped what I thought was the switch at the circuit board (unplugged the white connector and jumped the now exposed wiring in the...