Recent content by jasonf150

Serious question, how do you figure the PP75 is good to 200+ amps when it's rated for 75? The reason I ask is bc I have PP45's and I wonder if I can run them up to 100+ phase amps?

+1

Both chargers are charging to full capacity just fine, although I will start leaving it on the charger overnight to ensure a good balance. (verified by the voltmeter on the battery itself) I cut out the bad connector and soldered the wires together. Now the CA reads the same as the voltmeter...

yes the controller has a switch with the charger not connected its still reading 51.9v right now. i am going to solder the positive where the bad connector is and *hopefully* that solves it.

OK, I apologize for not doing more testing the other night. Here is what seems to be the case. First off, the battery IS in fact charging full. When tested at the battery, it measures the normal fully-charged voltage of about 58.4 So the chargers are both fine and doing their job. The issue...

Dang! I wasn't aware of that practice. I discharge over 80% almost every time. And I thought I was doing good to remove the charger once I saw the charger turn off. Geeze. Going to start doing as you suggest today!

I think my last comment came across the wrong way. It was meant like, "awe crap, it needs to be taken apart and reassembled", not like, "you're crazy, you think it needs to be taken apart". I do appreciate any advice you guys give me, please don't take that last post the wrong way. I was...

so you're telling me the battery pack needs to be disassembled and the individual cells balanced?

Thanks for the reply. I guess I need to look into redoing the connector. As far as the battery charge level...now tonight it only charged to 51.4v. What's up with that? It's not even nominal voltage. That means it's not charged right? I don't want to get stuck on the way to work tomorrow...

What does it mean when my positive batter connector (going from the battery to the controller) is melted together. It's not horrible, but enough to where I can't pull the connection apart. I can see where the plastic of the connector is melted a little. 52.8v, 9.2aH A123 40a 12fet controller...

Just for some perspective. My total cost was around $2250. Brand new Specialized Hardrock 29" disc brakes ~$550 motor kit from ebikes.ca (highly recommended by me and others) - $815 - HS3540 hub motor, laced into 29" rim ($90 extra) - kit included cycle analyst, throttle and controller -...

So I'm tyring out a new "battery box". I know I'm not the first to come up with this idea, but it's at least new to me. I screwed a shelf into the water bottle stays, and sat the battery on it. Then used VETRAP to wrap it all tight. The nice thing about this is that most of the cables are...

I have that motor on a 29" mountain bike running 52.8v a123 lifepo4. Great setup. I get ~35mph and about 13-15 miles range running 26mph avg. That said...I wish I got the HT3540. It'd be nice to have a little more off-the-line power. Drunk skunk is right though. If you're happy with 25 get a...

I run the hs3540 with a cellman a123 lifepo4 @16s4p (9.2aH). My commute is 12 miles and I use about 7.5aH. I have one pretty easy hill. That's averaging ~27mph with a top speed in the low 30's. I run a 29" hard tail mountain bike. I like my setup bu would change to a HT3540 for more torque...

For those interested in the 16s4p triangle. big version: http://11.a.hostable.me/images/16s4p.jpg