14kw continuous 94% efficient motor.......

[AussieJester]

I am amazed it's still inch sizes and not metric ! , even though general manufacturers what I know have gone that way for quite some time even in the good old U as of A (slight pun intended from a european :wink: )

We have some 'old timers' here Fligh High i imagine after 20-30 years of using imperial it would be hard to change to metric
for them, old habbits die hard and all that haha... I'm baffled how you using imperial in small measurements less than 1/4 of an inch
im lost as to how the measurements go after that, metric is sooooooooo much easy.

KiM

 

[swbluto]

im lost as to how the measurements go after that, metric is sooooooooo much easy.

KiM

Indeed, plus you don't have all those pesky conversion factors. *shudders*

 

[GGoodrum]

We don't actually call them imperial measurements over here, it's either inches, or metric.

I'm afraid I'm guilty of being an old timer. Even as an engineer all my life, and one who has spent a great deal of time overseas, in Asia and in Europe, metric hasn't really stuck. I still have use my fingers pinched together to visualize that 2mm is about 1/16th of an inch.

I remember back in the '70s there was a big push to convert, but it fizzled out and I haven't heard a peep about it since.

-- Gary

 

[AussieJester]

I remember back in the '70s there was a big push to convert, but it fizzled out and I haven't heard a peep about it since.

USA is one of the few remaining countries in the world that haven't converted to the metric system i believe

Countries in green are officially metric

Behind the times USofA peoples catch up

KiM

 

[recumpence]

I agree metric is a much easier system to use. However, one major issue with metric (and the reason my reductions do not use it) is thread pitch. Threads cut into aluminum are MUCH stronger with a larger pitch. I hate fine threads. They strip soooo easy compared to good old heavy, deep, american pitch threads. I cannot tell you how many times I have run a 1/4-20 tap through a stripped out 6mm hole as a repair. Once that is done, I have never had that same hole strip out again.

I will admit, that is the ONLY thing I like about American pitch, however........

Matt

 

[AussieJester]

I agree metric is a much easier system to use. However, one major issue with metric (and the reason my reductions do not use it) is thread pitch. Threads cut into aluminum are MUCH stronger with a larger pitch.

There are 3 different thread pitches in metric Matt Is the coarsest alot finer than imperial is it... I shall have to make a note to check next time i have the drive out i guess I know i had to grind a metric allen key to disassemble it :: curse imperial :: hahaha

KiM

 

[Miles]

Yes. 1/4" UNC is actually a coarser pitch than M8...

 

[rodgah]

try working on cars (not going to name names here because i love them kim) that are half imperial and half metric.....its ok when you know that is the case, but spare a thought for the people that dont really understand this and continue to use metric on everything...rounding it all of course in the process, then someone IE me having to then try to remove all of these damn rounded headed bolts *CURSES IMPERIAL*. But since its on such a nice car an everything i just think of the imperial parts as part of the dark side....the imperial army that is....

 

[AussieJester]

try working on cars (not going to name names here because i love them kim)

You would be talking of the car that is almost always :lol: First On Race Days Rodgah

Thanks Miles...i always use the 1.25 pitch myself

KiM

 

[rodgah]

You would be talking of the car that is almost always :lol: First On Race Days Rodgah

haha no no, the one that has a buick derivative engine in it....ie from vn till vy commodores, although the alloy tech has alot of torx bolts on it which is yet again another pain in the ass.

 

[AussieJester]

You would be talking of the car that is almost always :lol: First On Race Days Rodgah

haha no no, the one that has a buick derivative engine in it....ie from vn till vy commodores, although the alloy tech has alot of torx bolts on it which is yet again another pain in the ass.

HaHa shouldn't have any trouble getting them apart they barely 'Holden' together
from new. on a quiet day you can hear them rust.

KiM

 

[flyinmonkie]

You should try working on any American car post 1989. Body is all SAE (standard automotive engineering, that's what they call it there. They through the imperials out over 200 years ago now). And the engine is all metric because it was built by Toyota or Honda. That's why I liked working on airplanes, SAE no mater what country is was built in. Only needed one set of tools, not 3 including the special automotive tools designed to stop you form fixing your own car.

Clay

 

[etard]

Well maybe you Aussies should actually come up with your own car instead of us U Ass of A'ers having to design frilly bodied examples of our own autos to suit your frock wearing style. :lol:

 

[recumpence]

I hate to break up this wonderful banter, but, I have some motor info to share........... :wink:

The cans should be at Astro any day now (we could not find decent keyway 1/2 inch shaft, so we machined our own).

In the meantime, Bob setup a 3 inch stack 3220 (the same internal structure as this motor) and did some dyno-endurance testing. He ran one at 5,500 watts for 10 minutes wrapped in insulation (no cooling what-so-ever) as a thermal test. After 10 minutes, the windings started to smell, but it still was running. He said it takes 60 seconds for the core temp to reach the outside of the can. So, he is doing some calculations of what the motor can take based on that. Also, once he has our finned cans in hand, he will dyno test these for 10 second, 60 second, 5 minutes, and 10 minutes at various wattages to get a true rating for each. However, the preliminary numbers look VERY good. The 14kw number should be fine for our usage. He said his only concern may be using these motors at that ouput for extended periods without active cooling. However, in the ebike, or dirtbike applications where power is consumed in short bursts of a few seconds with a few seconds rest, the output should be through the roof, far over 14kw.

Also, he tested the motor up to 27,000 rpm without any problems. So, we know it is durable.

Matt

 

[AussieJester]

etard- actually Holden and Ford both make their cars right here in OZ ...Holden even exported their Monaro to the USofA for
a period during 2000 You fellas rebadged it as the Pontiac GTO ...your welcome :lol:

I hate to break up this wonderful banter, but, I have some motor info to share........... :wink:

Sorry Matt...

KiM

 

[recumpence]

etard- actually Holden and Ford both make their cars right here in OZ ...Holden even exported their Monaro to the USofA for
a period during 2000 You fellas rebadged it as the Pontiac GTO ...your welcome :lol:

I hate to break up this wonderful banter, but, I have some motor info to share........... :wink:

Sorry Matt...

KiM

Keep the banter going, I don't care.

Heck, I drive a Toyota. :wink:

Matt

 

[AussieJester]

Keep the banter going, I don't care.

Heck, I drive a Toyota. :wink:

Matt

Nothing wrong with Toyota they make some fine cars and 4x4s IMO

So ...uhm...Matt, is one of these motors in a Motoped type affair on the cards
for you in the near future ? :wink:

KiM

 

[etard]

How the hell does he spin this motor that fast? What kind of controller does he use? I'm sure he has the best, what ever it is.

AJ,
The recent GTO has to be the ugliest "sport car" ever produced, that big V8 does sound good though. But what a sacrilege to a car that has songs written about it.

 

[swbluto]

I hate to make comparisons, but there's another bad boy on the block, so it only seems right.

Currently, it seems the highest continuous mechanical RPM the motor can stand is 6000 RPM or so. Future designs may increase that, but that's the number for now. If this motor can continuously withstand 12k or some other high number, I have a feeling that this motor will have greater continuous power limit than Hal's making it "The bad boy" on the block. :wink:

There's value to being the best out there. Wealthier or the more spendy patrons tend to go for the best, with little regard to price (Assuming there isn't a huge price difference). Also, I have a feeling that the proportion of "spendy customers"/"budget buyers" will be a little higher with these motors because the market floor of ~$500 will weed out alot the budget buyers who'd probably just buy an $100 HXT and call it good.

 

[recumpence]

My motor has been tested (the rotor has been tested) at 27,000rpm without failure. Bob did that with a Castle Controller.

Right now, AFAIK, the Kelly controller is the best option. That controller can be ordered with a "High Speed" option. That brings the electric RPM limit up to 70k. That puts us in the 9,000rpm zone with this 8 pole motor.

Oh, Bob wound the lam stacks last week and should have the motors in hand Monday. We should have these back shortly. They will need sensors fitted, however. But, that will take place ASAP.

Matt

 

[katou]

If I was building a new high power vehicle that could use this size motor, I do not have any question which one I would purchase.

The Shumaker Big1 (like the name? You can have it for free) has a lot of history behind it already. I really feel like I could buy it, and it would perform out of the box to stated specs.

It will be a while before the Colossus has the kind of reputation for reliability that the Shumaker inrunners already have. Not to mention the fact that Bob, as a motor manufacturer can test that motor six ways from Sunday. Hal is doing a fine job, but he simply doesn't have access to the same equipment that Bob does.

I don't see much competition between these two personally.

There are many companies that make a fine 15 amp circular saw too, but for the refinements and brand confidence, I'd buy the DeWalt or Bosch.

JMHO,

Katou

 

[recumpence]

The ony real issue I can see with Hal's motor would be the lack of history (as Katou mentioned). That being said, it will not take long for them to build a reputation.

I am friends with Hal. I have no intention to step on his toes. But, that being said, we are truely apealing to different audiences (different parts of our audience).

I think it is good to have more than one option. There will, inevitably, be someone who bench tests both motors against each other. I will not, though. I do not want to be in any kind of competition with anyone else on this.

But, I obviously would love to know this motor is the best option. I would not be marketting it if I did not want to sell them.

I will still have buyers, no matter who's motor seems best. Some people will buy the lower cost option always. Some will always buy the lighter and prettier option.

Matt

 

[02jze]

Heck, I drive a Toyota. :wink:

Matt[/quote]


me TOO. TOYOTAS rock. cressida with a 2JZ (twin turbo supra motor) Looking at 400 to 450 hp on next tune.

 

[recumpence]

Ahh, very nice!

I just sold a 76 Kawasaki H1-500 triple to a guy who was driving a square bodied MR2 with an Acura motor in it. Also, a friend of mine is building the same setup, but with the newer round bodied MR2.

My 95 Camry has 239,000 miles on it. Mife wife's 2005 Highlander has 98,000 miles. Other than a couple oil drips occasionally, they are awesome!

Matt

 

[recumpence]

Bob from Astro just called me. He has the motors in hand and his words to me when we spoke were "This thing is BITCHEN!" That says alot coming from an old guy! :wink:

Anyway, I will keep you guys posted on the progress.

Matt