19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)

[Rix]

I wonder if they'd do better on lighter machines? One review said it was a great cold weather tire, but not in summer. Maybe it has a niche as a fat tire for slow winter driving?

That's a possibility if indeed its actually 11.5 pounds. I tossed the tire with out weighing it after I mounted the maxxis Desert IT, which weighs about 16 pounds with tube. Tubes for these size tires can hit the 3 pound mark easily if. Neat option could be to go with a Tubliss system to minimize weight, but still these tires are huge. Wait till you get your hands on one and compare it to the biggest bicycle fat tire you can find, it will probably be the same difference over comparing a fat tire to a regular MTD DH tire.

 

[Rix]

Here is an excellent example of how different manufactures tires can differ in size. Both of these tires are 2.75x17, the wider one is the Shinko SR241 and the narrower one is the TR1 by IRC. ID and OD are identical. Over 1/2 inch difference in width.

Rick

 

[sythacus]

I would highly recommend against washers, and offer the nipples we pair with my moped spokes. I keep 12, 13, and 14g nipples with 6mm barrel in stock. Send an email through the site about them and my worker will get you set up, since we don't have them for sale by themselves at this time.

http://holmeshobbies.com/Holmes-Custom-Moped-Spokes.html


If you got the spokes and nips through us already, we could take your old nipples on trade in credit.

I tried contacting you through your site a while back, but never received a reply. I have two 1.85x19 aluminum motorcycle pro wheels (the ones suggested by this thread) that I am trying to mate with a cromotor and a hope pro ii hub (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hope-Pro-2-II-Front-EVO-36-H-Mountain-Bike-MTB-Disc-Brake-Hub-20-MM-Blk-/151259176473?pt=US_Hubs&hash=item2337bfde19)

I would like to purchase spokes, but need assistance with sizing the length and getting the correct nipples. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Ugrd]

I would highly recommend against washers, and offer the nipples we pair with my moped spokes. I keep 12, 13, and 14g nipples with 6mm barrel in stock. Send an email through the site about them and my worker will get you set up, since we don't have them for sale by themselves at this time.

http://holmeshobbies.com/Holmes-Custom-Moped-Spokes.html


If you got the spokes and nips through us already, we could take your old nipples on trade in credit.

I tried contacting you through your site a while back, but never received a reply. I have two 1.85x19 aluminum motorcycle pro wheels (the ones suggested by this thread) that I am trying to mate with a cromotor and a hope pro ii hub (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hope-Pro-2-II-Front-EVO-36-H-Mountain-Bike-MTB-Disc-Brake-Hub-20-MM-Blk-/151259176473?pt=US_Hubs&hash=item2337bfde19)

I would like to purchase spokes, but need assistance with sizing the length and getting the correct nipples. Any help is appreciated.

Holmes charges people for calculations, which is why he probably never responded to you. Calculating them yourself isnt that hard at all, actually il calculate this myself for you, FOR FREE

I got the dimensions of your Hope Pro II from http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/hope-pro-2-hub-dimensions-587371.html

Looks like the flange is 54-56mm so we will average that out to 55 for our calculations.

(19.5mmL - Center - 34mmR) for the flange spacing which adds up to 53.5mm.

Diameter of spoke hole is 2.6mm.

The rim diameter that someone else suggested in this thread is 460mm (Which I used personally for my own bikes pro wheel rim)

Using ebike.ca's calculator http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/spoke-calc.html we input our specs.

Which brings us to 204.8 which rounds up to 205mm. I normally add 1mm just for safety but that's just me.

Make sure your spokes will be able to fit through a 2.6mm hole.

Heres a picture of the calculator:

If someone wants to quickly make sure I didnt mess up somewhere but im pretty sure thats all correct. The only thing is that im not sure if the hubs specs are 100% correct as ebay is normally cheap, different than actual manufacturing.

For your cromotor, if you can find the Hub Flange Diameter of that and then input that in the calculator you will find those spoke lengths. Finding that measurement shouldn't be that hard if you search for it.

Happy riding,
Ugrd

 

[GiantEV]

CST 2.0x19" tire

I should note that although the tire looks new, the manufacturer's paper label that came on the tire looks aged, as if stored in a warehouse for a while. I thought I read somewhere that some of these tires were older before purchasing them, so I was prepared for it, but I thought I'd mention it in case others are interested in trying this tire.

From a website referenced on an earlier page:
http://www.myronsmopeds.com/category/parts/tires/

19-1 tire 2.00-19
Cheng Shin C109
DI151-023014
(23×2.0) $30

< These 2.00-19 tires are NOS, new old stock. They were made in the 1980′s, but do not have any cracks. They have become smashed and bent from being in a tightly wrapped bundle for many years. The shape becomes normal after mounting and inflating.

Just adding confirming info. How are they holding up?
My rims are at the house waiting. After much searching, and reading this thread multiple times, finding my top choices never seem to be in stock anywhere... I'm going with the Vee Rubber VRM 013 moped tire.

https://www.treatland.tv/vee-rubber-vrm013-moped-tire-19-x-2-25-p/vee-rubber-vrm013-19x2.25.htm Rated 43J = 62mph (99.7kph) and 342lbs (155kg). Sounds like enough. Still spokes to get or lacing to outsource.

The CSTs are holding up pretty well. They are only 2ply and seem similar to a bike tire, so I'm looking forward to upgrading to the Shinko. The 2.0" tire looks pretty small compared to the front 26", and I have room for a 2.5" tire so if I was going to do it again and could find a 2.5" tire I'd probably start with that. That other tire you showed has a max speed above 60mph, which is better than the 30mph max speed of the CST. As far as the ride, I can't complain, although it may be unhappy loaded up with a HS40xx motor, batteries, and me, because a friend of mine said my tire looked low even though it was pumped up to max pressure. My other tires don't seem to have this problem.

 

[wingsuit]

Granted mine is a 19x1.4 but I swear my erd was 469mm for my prowheel. Is the 1.85 different?

 

[Rix]

Granted mine is a 19x1.4 but I swear my erd was 469mm for my prowheel. Is the 1.85 different?

I measured my ERD with 18mm long spoke nipples at 477 on the 19x1.4 PW Racing rim. Spoke nipple lengths can change your ERD measurements. The 19x1.85 ERD will be less because the rim has a deeper well which decreases inner diameter. I don't know how much less though because I don't have a 19x1.85 to measure. Can't remember how, but one guy on the thread said he had an ERD measurement of like 15mm difference between a 1.4 wide and 1.85 rim. On both my 18x1.4 generic moped rims and 18x1.85 tegasko, the tegasko was 4mm shorter ERD because of rim well depth. Did that answer your question?

Rick

 

[johnrobholmes]

We only charge people for calculations that need calculations only, its free when people are wanting spokes too :lol:


Cromotor into a 19" prowheel should be 130mm one cross. Add thickness of washers to the length.

Hope EVOII into 19" prowheel should be 220/222mm for three cross. Add thickness of washers to the length.

 

[sythacus]

We only charge people for calculations that need calculations only, its free when people are wanting spokes too :lol:


Cromotor into a 19" prowheel should be 130mm one cross. Add thickness of washers to the length.

Hope EVOII into 19" prowheel should be 220/222mm for three cross. Add thickness of washers to the length.

Thanks to all that replied.

If I order these spokes (http://holmeshobbies.com/Holmes-Custom-Moped-Spokes.html), I'm assuming per your previous post that I don't need washers and can order to the specs you quoted? or do I need to do anything in particular to get the right nipples?

 

[johnrobholmes]

Depends on the rim. Measure the holes in the rim. If the nipple shank isn't within .2mm then you need washers.



Anybody interested in lighter options? Like aluminum nipples and drilled rims?

 

[sythacus]

Depends on the rim. Measure the holes in the rim. If the nipple shank isn't within .2mm then you need washers.



Anybody interested in lighter options? Like aluminum nipples and drilled rims?

Holes are .340 inches or 8.636 mm

 

[Rix]

Depends on the rim. Measure the holes in the rim. If the nipple shank isn't within .2mm then you need washers.



Anybody interested in lighter options? Like aluminum nipples and drilled rims?

Holes are .340 inches or 8.636 mm

You will probably need washers. My spoke hole on the front rim were about 6.8mm with the lace job JRH did for me. Based on that, I think 7mmthat's about as big of a hole you can get away with without a washer.

 

[agniusm]

Perhaps i will be off topic here but i see johnrobholmes in the discussion and perhaps i will get some help. I am building ~100kph e-motor bike and decided to use moped tires. i have two 17" rims but they are heavy and i cant get proper rubber up here. I have decided to use bicycle rims, 20" to be exact. I have Alex rims DX32 which are 36mm wide, 32 inner width. I can get PIRELLI 65/80 R16 42P ML12, they work out ar 2.55" wide, so my question is, would they fit?
Thanks

 

[GCinDC]

I have decided to use bicycle rims, 20" to be exact.... I can get PIRELLI 65/80 R16 42P ML12, they work out ar 2.55" wide, so my question is, would they fit?

did you check out this thread? 20 inch BMX rims with motorcycle tires
here are some pirellis on bike rims...:

 

[agniusm]

Oh, thanx, completely forgot about that thread.

 

[sythacus]

Depends on the rim. Measure the holes in the rim. If the nipple shank isn't within .2mm then you need washers.



Anybody interested in lighter options? Like aluminum nipples and drilled rims?

Holes are .340 inches or 8.636 mm

You will probably need washers. My spoke hole on the front rim were about 6.8mm with the lace job JRH did for me. Based on that, I think 7mmthat's about as big of a hole you can get away with without a washer.

Guess I need to go look for washers before I order spokes.

 

[GCinDC]

i've recently considered building an mc wheel for the front as well as the rear.

but i'm really happy with the handling of my 26" hookworm on the street. it's very light and easy to steer.

an mc wheel up front would look awesome, but would the handling be much worse?

and why does a front bicycle wheel and rear MC wheel feel good?

i got to thinking about the weight. my bike weighs ~90lbs.

i stuck a scale under the back: 60lbs

i then weighed the front: 30lbs (actually surprised it added up to 90lbs )

then i sat on the bike and weighed the front again: 69lbs:

and while sitting, i weighed the back: 191lbs

so while the the rear tire bears 2x of the weight w/o a rider, with a rider, it bears 191/69=2.77 times the weight.

if i were headed downhill at a steep angle like the bike was designed for, the weight (and my body) would probably be much more centered, but riding on the flats and seated, there's far more weight on the rear. i imagine the stealth CG is more centered, as may be you folks w/ batts in pelican cases up front..

but for those w/ batts in triangles or on racks, that added weight in the rear makes MC wheels more attractive/necessary.

i would really love the look of another 244 on the front, but out of fear of worse handling (and lower BB) I'll continue to stick w/ the 26" up front... for a couple days anyway, until i get bored. :lol:

 

[Rix]

GCnDC, I did eventually try a MC wheel on the front. Its going to feel slightly slower steering, and the weight increase is noticiable. Offroad handeling in loose slick shit is quite a bit better. But the weight increase is more noticable on the front than the rear going from a MTB to MC wheel. It wont' disappoint you, however, and this is my opinion for whatever thats worth, I don't thing the better handeling and stability is worth the weight increase if the majority of your riding is street and pavement.

Rick

 

[johnrobholmes]

ditto on the stability and slowing of steering. Agreed on the use as well, if you are staying mostly on pavement and aren't dealing with flats, your setup works. I tend to prefer moped tires all around on my bikes, set it and forget it and deal with some extra weight.


I'm building a set of 19s to convert my BB drive bike, and in an effort to save some rotational weight we are drilling the rim like a trials bike. I'm estimating about 1lb savings total. If I secure financing on a turning center, I'll make aluminum nipples soon which will be another 1/4 pound.

GCnDC, I did eventually try a MC wheel on the front. Its going to feel slightly slower steering, and the weight increase is noticiable. Offroad handeling in loose slick shit is quite a bit better. But the weight increase is more noticable on the front than the rear going from a MTB to MC wheel. It wont' disappoint you, however, and this is my opinion for whatever thats worth, I don't thing the better handeling and stability is worth the weight increase if the majority of your riding is street and pavement.

Rick

 

[Ch00paKabrA]

if you want to stick with a bicycle tire up front but want it to look like a motorcycle tire, why not go with a 19" M/C tire in the back and a 24 X 3.00 tire up front? They work out to just about the same diameter and width.

this particular bicycle tire has a similar tread pattern to one of Pirelli's tires:



Its called the City Slick. Here is the link for anyone interested.

http://luxlow.com/products-page/ll-...4x-3-city-slick-chopper-cruiser-bicycle-tire/

I personally run Electra Fatti-O tires on my hard tail and I love them. I like taking corners at 20+ mph so there are no chicken strips on my tires I lean them all the way over!

 

[Rix]

19" M/C tire in the back and a 24 X 3.00 tire up front? They work out to just about the same diameter and width.

Yes, this is a good set up. I have ran it before and it works and works well. Also, even though a slight size difference, a 19MC wheel with a 26x3.00 also works very very well, as Offroader on the Qulbix thread as showed us. Whether the 19mc/24mtb or 19mc/26mtb, cant go wrong eitherway.

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Some first hand info on the UN-INFLATED Vee Rubber VRM 013:
23.5" OD
2.25" Wide
1945g / 4.3 lbs.
and pics:

 

[Rix]

Some first hand info on the UN-INFLATED Vee Rubber VRM 013:
23.5" OD
2.25" Wide
1945g / 4.3 lbs.
and pics:
[-h630-no/14+-+3[/img]

SK John, a 2.25 x19 is a small MC tire, I don't think when you get that mounted and INFLATED that it will be more than about 24 to 24.25 inches. When I made the reference that 19MC tires are the almost identical in diameter with 24MTB, that was with 2.75x19 and wider, and 70/100x19 MC tires. I know that running a 2.5x19 on a 19x1.4 rim only comes out to 24.6 inches or so. I think your tire there will be an awesome pavement tire. Let us know how you like it.

Rick

 

[SkyknightJohn]

I wasn't trying to contradict you in any manner, and hope I didn't come of that way. I was just adding info on a tire I hadn't seen others use, and being a guinea pig for it. Yes, I'm a pavement guy, and I was looking to stay closer to bicycle size, width wise. I realized it would be smaller OD. I like the idea of 4-ply and a higher speed rating than I'll likely ever see. I frequently hit 35mph on some of my commute down-hills on Big Apples. Those thin sidewalls are sometimes scary.

I am a little concerned since I bought 1.85" rims. A 2.25" tire is on the lower end of suggested fitting for that size rim, but is one of the suggesed sizes, so I'll see. Might end up switching down to 1.4". Any problems with mounting & inflating (even partially) prior to lacing the rim? Warping maybe? I don't plan to unless the consensus says it's safe and it would add info to the thread. It will be next week or so before I can move ahead with the lacing.

 

[Rix]

SKN John, I didn't think you were contradicting, when I read your measurments, I realized I forgot to mention the size of the tires I was referring too. I know one guy had a 2.0 x 19, that thing is small, by MTB and MC standards. On the contrary, my 2.75x18 SR241 on an 18x1.4 rim is bigger than your tire, by 1/4th of an inch. Your 2.25 on a 19x1.4 rim would be much better than on a 1.85 wide one. The 1.85 will spread your tire out and make it wider and slight more flat on the top tread, as the 1.4 it will be more rounded. You would need to see them at the same time to see the difference though. Probably the biggest advantage of running 1.4 wide rim over a 1.85 is the 1.4 is over 1 pound lighter, thats what I noticed between my 18x1.85 and 18x1.4 rims. Either way you go, you will like it better than a bicycle tire.

Rick