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24 volt options

Joined
Apr 5, 2013
Messages
13
I'm looking at building a pusher trailer like the Cyclebully by Atomic zombie. I have a 19 mile commute in one direction and I could charge when I get to work. I didn't see many options for 24 volts but I already have a 1KW battery from a Chevy Volt that is 24 volts so I'd like to use that if possible. About the best option I saw was an Ezip motor or just using a 24 volt motor and direct drive. Anyone have any suggestions? I'm not looking for all out speed as much as durability. I actually race bikes so I just want something that will help push a commuter bike move at speeds that make commuting 19 miles tolerable while I still put in around 230ish watts of my own. Thanks!
 
Push-trailers have been tried years ago. They are helpful when hauling heavy cargo, because powering only one wheel of a bicycle does not have much traction.

I recall they cause odd handling on turns, so high speed is not recommended. I suppose a geared hub would be ideal, for freewheeling when only the ebike is powered.
 
EVFitting Greentime has a $31 24V 40A 1000W controller :shock:
https://evfittinggreentime.aliexpress.com/store/313864/search?SearchText=24v
Also they have Unite motors and small 250W hubmotors.
 
If you are a bike racer at heart, i doubt you would be happy being pushed by a trailer , and certainly not with lugging that GM Volt battery around !
i suggest you consider the Kepler drive system which is a very neat assist drive and works well at low voltages .
Read this thread..
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=84905&start=375
 
That kepler drive seems like it might make the most sense. Enough power to make the 19 mile trip to work easy and not too "ebikey" to interfere with the 19 mile interval workout on the way home.
 
scottorious said:
That kepler drive seems like it might make the most sense. Enough power to make the 19 mile trip to work easy and not too "ebikey" to interfere with the 19 mile interval workout on the way home.

Keplar friction drive has its place thats for sure, and yes its is totally cool and compact. Just how many tires do you want to go through, and what happens in the rain and mud.

If you dont want the "ebikey" looks, then take a look at
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=104679#p1529495
Basically hiding a small rear hub motor behind a rear pannier bag off the rear rack, hiding the motor, throw the controller in the bag as well as the battery.

It would seem from the "too ebikey" comment perhaps you are concerned about the looks of your ebike attracting un wanted attention from authority, or cockroach thieves. I personally dont care what my ebike looks like, I got wires hanging everywhere. While riding no one pays attention to the look of a bicycle, only the rate of speed or if your doing wheelies to attract the fuzz.
 
markz said:
scottorious said:
That kepler drive seems like it might make the most sense. Enough power to make the 19 mile trip to work easy and not too "ebikey" to interfere with the 19 mile interval workout on the way home.

Keplar friction drive has its place thats for sure, and yes its is totally cool and compact. Just how many tires do you want to go through, and what happens in the rain and mud.

If you dont want the "ebikey" looks, then take a look at
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=104679#p1529495
Basically hiding a small rear hub motor behind a rear pannier bag off the rear rack, hiding the motor, throw the controller in the bag as well as the battery.

It would seem from the "too ebikey" comment perhaps you are concerned about the looks of your ebike attracting un wanted attention from authority, or cockroach thieves. I personally dont care what my ebike looks like, I got wires hanging everywhere. While riding no one pays attention to the look of a bicycle, only the rate of speed or if your doing wheelies to attract the fuzz.

Mud doesn't happen on my paved commute and the lightweight nature of the Kepler and being able to disengage it entirely means the bike could still be rideable if the drive is slipping.

I didn't mention looks at all. "Too ebikey" has more to do with weight in all the wrong spots and crap ziptied all over it that would interfere more with my interval workout on my way home. If I take 2 hours to get home(my frequent summer morning ride) I want the least intrusive setup. Which was why I considered the trailer. I could leave it at work and ride without it on my way home if I wanted.
 
Put the 24v zip motor, or whatever you choose on the bike. 24v geared motor kits used to be around, but mostly stuff is 36v now. Then just run a cable to the bike from the battery on the trailer.

You might just look for a rear, planetary geared motor kit in 36v, then buy a 24v controller to run it on. Or just a motor wheel, then add a controller and throttle.

and don't ruin your favorite bike with a motor. put it on something else in your stable, or get a cheap 26 inch commuter bike.

Later, you can upgrade the battery to something lighter.

With a throttle, you have the best control of your pedal wattage. Pick your fastest gear, pedal hard, feeling lots of pressure on your feet. Vary the throttle so your speed remains the same, cadence remains the same, pressure on your feet same the whole ride. It will feel like being in the peloton, even when riding into hard wind. You just back off the throttle whenever you feel the feet get light, indicating you are using too much motor and pedaling at only 100w. Just make it feel like your feel when you ride the naked bike.

Screw how it looks. If you do this, its not for looks. You can get a hell of a workout going home anytime. Just don't roll back the throttle. But you will get to work without too much sweat on the way, if that is your desire. Any day work fatigues you too much, take the 100w pedaling ride home.
 
dogman dan said:
Put the 24v zip motor, or whatever you choose on the bike. 24v geared motor kits used to be around, but mostly stuff is 36v now. Then just run a cable to the bike from the battery on the trailer.

You might just look for a rear, planetary geared motor kit in 36v, then buy a 24v controller to run it on. Or just a motor wheel, then add a controller and throttle.

and don't ruin your favorite bike with a motor. put it on something else in your stable, or get a cheap 26 inch commuter bike.

Later, you can upgrade the battery to something lighter.

With a throttle, you have the best control of your pedal wattage. Pick your fastest gear, pedal hard, feeling lots of pressure on your feet. Vary the throttle so your speed remains the same, cadence remains the same, pressure on your feet same the whole ride. It will feel like being in the peloton, even when riding into hard wind. You just back off the throttle whenever you feel the feet get light, indicating you are using too much motor and pedaling at only 100w. Just make it feel like your feel when you ride the naked bike.

Screw how it looks. If you do this, its not for looks. You can get a hell of a workout going home anytime. Just don't roll back the throttle. But you will get to work without too much sweat on the way, if that is your desire. Any day work fatigues you too much, take the 100w pedaling ride home.

I guess if I used a trailer for the battery I could use a 48 volt module(that I already have)and then I could use a common motor and controller. I could then get a smaller 48 volt battery in the future and have one for more short rides and the 2kw pack for long rides or hauling cargo in the trailer.

I'm going to give the friction drive some more thought. Thinking about that on my Allez sprint sounds like a blast.
 
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