300 lb man to build fast, powerfull mid drive. help please.

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Oct 18, 2014
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Hello everybody! I recently joined the forum and have been doing a lot of reading and research, but need a little help.
I am a heavy rider who wants to build a fast mid drive and or bottom bracket. I need hardware suggestions. I would prefer at least 2000 watt motor, and a three geared drive ring. Looking for QUALITY motor, and kit for reasonable price. I will be building my own lithium ion battery pack.
Most interesting so far is from cyclone, thoughts?
" 399USDWater proof, very little noise, no over heat, high efficiency High torque 1920-3000W no noise geared motor 4.8 kg 80 km/h with 48V 100A cyclone controller( throttle 48V) ( in stock Now) with 48V 100A max controlelr( throttle 48V) 48V 40A continue controlelr size 8x15x4 cm non programable (controller with 3 speeds and manual cruise control function)" will this fit a standand bike? Is it reliable?
 
You can achieve what you are looking for, but it will not be reasonably priced. You will need a very rugged bike and a very powerful drive system. This will be costly. It can be done, but not easily.

If you have a $4,000 budget (minimum) you could do it. But, you will need some seriously strong wheels, brakes, drive system, and a rugged frame. As mentioned, a cargo bike would be your best bet as they are designed for more weight t begin with.

Matt
 
+1 for the cargo frame.
As an example, I use a Yuba Mundo which has a 400lb load rating, good welds, and large top/down tubes. It has a stock oversize 12mm rear axle and 48 spoke rear wheel. And importantly, as any good beering-drinking Harley owner knows, it's a big bike that will make you look smaller.... :D

Another option is go with a StokeMonkey or SM-inspired design to leverage more plug-n-play parts. Grin has (or may have completed) a Mundo version. The EdgeRunner cargo cycle with SM might offer a pretty much off-the-shelf solution - albeit for a few bucks.... (cargo frame, smaller higher torque rear wheel, custom SM mount, CA V3 support with optional PAS, etc).
 
Quote about the cargo, perhaps you may look at beef FAT frame too? I have a friend that's near to your weight and is really happy with his Trail Tracker (and I have it on service right now). I'm not suggesting that complete bike with the rear Hubmotor, just reporting that frame and components (very solid and long frame made for 600w e-duty, wheels with double wall wide rims and 12g spokes, BB7brakes ecc.) seems to withstand the heavy duty loads it is subjected to.
A similar bike with an LR GNG kit should be one of the good ways to go..... that's not far from the budget suggested by Matt...and of course One of his 3220 drives can do it too no problem, if properly tuned and on the right bike.....
Now that I think a bit about, probably getting a Tracker (new or used), for a relatively reasonable price, resell the DAPU motor/controller/battery combo for a good value, and than buy the middrive of your choice (keeping in mind that they have 83mm BB's shell with a wide chainline) Shouldn't be a bad solution for an US based build.
Starting from a non electric FAT frame or complete bike should be cheaper, but you need to check that the frame is not simply a regular frame with just beefed stays and forks but a true BIG solid FAT frame made for Tracks or electrics, than easily you will need to upgrade some components (like rims, spokes and brakes)......or spend $ for them if a blank frame....
Just my 2 cents...
 
yeah I was curious I haven't seen any bikes that really advertise how much weight they carry....I mean you see speeds and gears and tires and brakes on them but practically none say this things can hold a 300 pound man going at 40 miles per hour and will not snap like a toothpick. ya know...... isn't there soe kind of law on this in America? where do you find the max weight these bikes can carry? or are bikes not regulated like medicine wasn't regulated in America in the 1900's???
 
There are too many variables in rider style to make generalizations. Lots of 250+ pound riders are smooth and conscious enough that they can keep regular-duty stuff going indefinitely, and then there are riders half that heavy who wreck even heavy-duty frames and parts.

This project is ill-advised, in my opinion. It's too much weight, too much power, and too much speed all in the same bike. Regular bicycle parts are going to be overloaded in all regards. Yes, you can use a cargo bike frame (Yuba Mundo is where I'd start, assuming a normal height rider), yes you can beef up the wheels and human interface (cranks, seatpost, handlebars/stem), and yes you can sort out an electric power system that will deliver the requisite power reliably (though Cyclone probably doesn't make that kit).

What you can't do is persuade an ordinary bicycle drivetrain to tolerate almost 3HP continuously without wearing out and breaking on a frequent basis. The NuVinci N171 is the only bicycle transmission that would be well within its spec at that power level, and in that case you'll still have issues wearing out the chain and sprockets quickly, and jamming the drive sprocket on so tight that it is very difficult to remove for replacement.

Get down into the 1kW and 30mph range, and it all starts to look a lot more feasible. If that will do the job, I'd say use a longtail cargo bike frame, Stokemonkey with 48V/35A controller, NuVinci N171 hub, 65mm double-walled fatbike rims, 200mm or larger disc brakes with metallic pads (because very wide rims don't play well with rim brakes), and BMX bars/stem/cranks with left side and right side chainrings. It won't be cheap.
 
I have a crome moly frame hybrid bicycle with a 48 volt cyclone kit with kelly controller and it has been fantastic.
The battery fits in the triangle a headway48v 15 ah and weighs about 12 kilos.
Chains need constant replacement but with a speed of about 55klh on the flats and stupid fast down hill.
Up most hills average about 35klh.
I am about 130 kilo and the bike is 30 kilos.
Done 12000 and couldnt be happier.
totally replaced my car for getting to work.
Only mods are oil in the reduction box.
brett
 
spinningmagnets said:
I would recommend that you start with a Juiced Riders ODK cargobike. For this get the newer twin downtube model.

This is the first I've heard of a newer twin downtube model; do you have a link??
 
Lupulin said:
spinningmagnets said:
I would recommend that you start with a Juiced Riders ODK cargobike. For this get the newer twin downtube model.

This is the first I've heard of a newer twin downtube model; do you have a link??

It's called the T500, check it here (3rd bike shown):

[youtube]A-xvhEuGuNY[/youtube]
 
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