4motus / cromotor DH bike build

Its one of these, the choice of decent 24" wheels in the UK is few and far between, there was a choice of about 2 wheels.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/dmr-comp-front-wheel-24-/rp-prod22968
 
Tench said:
Have you built a big lipo pack before? do you want to come over and see one, I am sure It would benefit you to come have a look and learn a little more before you bought a ton of connectors.
Click to expand...

Iv never built a lipo back before, but have built NiMh packs before for other things, and build all kinds of crazy motion activated / micro controller Halloween props for Halloween, so know a fair bit about building circuits and stuff. I was going to hack the leads off and just build a bespoke loom, but want to keep the warranty on the packs, so just need to find the same connectors to do it with :).
 
Is it a good idea to put an inline fuse between your batteries and controller or some kind of breaker or does the controller have a fuse onboard ?.
 
Just bought some connectors off hobbyking and also some 6Ga and 8Ga wire.
 
I wouldn't worry about the warrantee on your packs, it will have expired long before you use them!

Hobby King warrantee on any lithium based battery is 30 days.

It is always a good idea to use a fuse. You will struggle to find an 80v 150a dc breaker so I would put 150a fuses in the main lines. it is really only to protect against a straight short. 8g cable takes a while to blow! the fuse would prevent a total melt down in the event of a short.
 
This should do the job, they even sell a 200A version too http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Marine-Boat-Bike-Stereo-Audio-12V-24V-DC-Inline-Circuit-Breaker-Fuse-150A-/141251769451?pt=UK_BOI_CircuitBreakers_RL&hash=item20e342f46b
 
crea2k said:
This should do the job, they even sell a 200A version too http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Marine-Boat-Bike-Stereo-Audio-12V-24V-DC-Inline-Circuit-Breaker-Fuse-150A-/141251769451?pt=UK_BOI_CircuitBreakers_RL&hash=item20e342f46b
Click to expand...

The voltage rating for that breaker is way too low, the separation of the contacts wont be sufficient to snuff the ark at higher voltage, it will continue to pass current even after tripping. you do need to find something rated correctly for voltage with DC currents.

I have these but they are not sufficient for your current, don't know if 3 in parallel would work?

 
Would something like this do the job then ?, just have to carry a couple around in case something decided to short out mid ride.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Amplifiers-sub-Fuse-Holder-Free-ANL-Fuse-80-100-150-200-250A-Cable-Inline-/261489217115?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item3ce1f8ce5b
 
The little breaker you linked to would work as a switch to isolate the battery but under a short condition when it tripped it would not stop the current flow, so when you needed the protection it would not be there.

The fuse you linked to is still only rated for upto 32v, you need to find higher voltage ones that create sufficient gap when they blow to prevent an arc.
 
Would a household rcd work, or are they only designed for AC ?, as I see some of the manufactured scooters have some on them that look very similar to something I have for my cooker.
 
Found one here that would do the job;

http://www.littelfuse.com/products/fuses/specialty-power-fuses/semiconductor-fuses/l15s/l15s150.aspx

Found the some of those on ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Littlefuse-150-Amp-130-Volt-L15S150-Fuse-FUS1277-/360202662190?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53ddc0712e
 
Found another here : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHAWMUT-A13Z150-FUSE-A13Z150-130-VOLT-150-AMP-TYPE-4-/200886764946?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec5c8c592
I take it I just crimp a ring onto the end and then bolt them on then and heat shrink it all ?.
 
I got both off ebay, I thought it would be best to go from 8ga (battery side) to 6ga (controller side) as the cable will be carrying more current when they are in parallel .
 
Just wondering if it would be a better idea just fusing each battery pack with one of these instead ?.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-blade-inline-fuse-holder-max-30A-splashproof-car-audio-electronics-/301201266563?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4620fe9783
 
Its rated to 30A , would each battery pull more than 30A by itself ?, im on about having one for each pack, not using it for the whole bank.
 
These are 100A rated http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LARGE-MAXI-BLADE-FUSE-HOLDER-100-AMP-INLINE-CAR-AUTO-FUSE-FUSES-SPLASH-PROOF-/130667756576?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e6c67bc20
 
as far as i know, the phase wires to motor are where the most losses happen from wire resistance. id definately be using the thicker 6Ga for that if i coud find it :D
got a link to it there?
 
When you use fuses though they are supposed to be as near to the battery as possible, but I don't want the fuses to be higher than the gauge of the wire otherwise the wire will melt before the fuse blows, that's why I was trying to work out the max current the battery's could draw when working properly :) . Yeah I used to use those for car audio, and some of the huge things that are about 2 inches across.
 
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