60V 1000W ebike/scooter controller problem - SOLVED

[Matess]

Hi,
I´m trying to build my own ebike for as cheap as possible. I do have batteries in the frame right now, rear hub motor and a controller from ebay, but I just dont know, hot to connect ti together properly.

Problem is that i dont have a documentation for it..
This controller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280843508618&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123#ht_3053wt_1139

here is a picture of cables..
http://www.soonwell.com/ebay_file/pro_pic/E-Bike_Cables

power cables are connected directly to the battery
motor and hall cables to the hub motor
speed cable to the hand throtle

huge flash appeared when the batteries where connected for the first time to the controller, but I think thats normal.
i´ve tried to connect white self-study cables, but nothing happens.

I can only guess why it isn´t working. Maybe I have to do something with anti-theft cables, maybe revereser cables have to be also connected. What about brake cables should they be connected together?

Thanks for any tip.

Matess

 

[John in CR]

It looks like the wire called the door lock in the pic and called the dog lock in the self learn instructions is actually the power wire to turn the controller on, so you'd put your switch (I always recommend a key switch) between that wire and battery +. Put your switch in a convenient location, because then it also serves as an emergency cutoff in case you get a runaway condition from a broken throttle or shorted throttle wire.

FYI the self learn instructions don't seem correct or complete. I would think you turn it on with the learn plugs connected, and turn the motor wheel for a few seconds. Turn off, unplug learn plugs and give it a try. Always use small throttle pulses when trying a new motor controller combination until it spins up nice and smooth.

John

 

[Matess]

I´ve added a circuit breaker between battery and motor controller with a diode in reverse direction paralel to the circuit breaker. (if the circuit breaker will be switched off, then diode will be there to protect the controller when motor recuperates)

I will connect that wire to that circuit braker... Give me a few hours...

PS: John in CR: Ty jsi cech?

 

[Matess]

ok, your advice was a good one. Motor is now running on self test, but backwards. If i let it run for a half minute and then disconnect the self test motor slowly stops, but it wont run when i move with hand throttle. Do you know why?

What is a better solution?
mount motor right?
switch 2 phases? (what about hall sonds?)
use reverser cables (how? there are 3 there...)

 

[John in CR]

You don't run on self test. You spin the wheel by hand for the controller to learn the firing sequence. Then unplug the learn plug. Then try. If that spins it backwards, start the learn process again, but try turning the wheel backward, and see if that works. The instructions say to use the reverse wires, so you could try that and see how it works. Typically reverse is programmed for only a % of forward.

An alternative would be to swap 2 halls on the motor plug, and then do the learn function. I use a very small allen wrench to get the spades out of the plug. If the learn function isn't smart enough to learn forward, then I think switching 2 halls is the better route, since the hall firing sequence is physically set at the motor, not something the controller controls. That should smarten up the learn function.

If you still get a reverse, then forget the learn plug, swap the 2 halls back, and find the good combination of the remaining 5 possible combos of the phase wires.

John

 

[Matess]

You don't run on self test. You spin the wheel by hand for the controller to learn the firing sequence. Then unplug the learn plug...

Thats a problem... if I plug the learn cables, motor starts spining....

 

[Matess]

I´ve contacted a reseller and he send me this:

Hi,one of the buyer gets back with the following information:

(8.)E-ABS/Regen: Two blue cables matched. (For Gearless hub motor.) Close to enable Regen braking mode, Open to disable Regen.

(9.)Phase calibration cables: White cables matched. Phase/hall calibration mode, close to calibrate, open for normal controller operation.

(10 Throtle. (Red Blue Black cables connector).

(11) True cruise controll function. Grey cables matched. Requires connection to momentary switch. Press installed switch to keep current throttle speed. Brake switch, or accelerator, or cruse controll switch pressed releases cruise funtion.

(12) Brake switch cables. Yellow and Black wires. When enable, cuts motor power, and operates E-ABS and releases cruis control funtions. Please install for safety, efficient use of battery and brake pads.

Hopefully it helps.

So it seems, that i´ve had a bad throttle cable. I used cable described as "speed cable" and now he said i should use "reverser cables"

I try to measure something.... And really it seems that reverser cables are the right ones. There is 4,8V on a red wire ground on a black wire and i think that yellow is a sensor wire.

What are speed cables for?

When i unplugged a throttle from speed cables the engine stopped spining when learn cables where connected.

How can i be sure, that throttle is ok? It has 3 wires. Outer ones has 1,8kohm between them and outer one (doesnt care which one) and the middle wire has 20 Mohm. Position of a throttle doesnt change the values. Is it damaged? Or throttle is not a potentiometer?

 

[Matess]

Hi again,
e-throtle is running through RMA process right now, but I´am still trying to get the right combination of phases and halls.

Are these all possible combinations, or I am missing something?

I want to try it by using regenarative braking. It has to go smooth, right? No tearing and twitching while braking...

 

[Matess]

It Is working!! I used e-throttle from old small electric scooter. That one, that i bought was faulty.

putting into operation procedure

1. connect phase wires, connect hall wires
2. have unit off and twist e-throtle (this is important, controller must have discharged capacitors)
3. plug together learning wires
4. wheel must be free to spin, then turn controller on.

controller now self detect correct order of hall sonds and starts spinning.

5. hit the brake, and disconnect learning cables.

Thats all... if it is going backwards, then swap 2 random phase wires, and go from the begining.

I have a switch on speed wires, low speed is about 48km/h (~29mph), high speed is 62km/h (~38mph) with 26" wheels. It seems that high speed is limited by the current from the controller. Freely spins faster. It could be good for smaller wheel sizes.

I have to finish it... i don´t have charger yet, battery frame needs painting, solder remaining wires, replace throttle...

But it is awesome!!

 

[icecube57]

Ebike woody? J/K

 

[sheikhuu]

Hey man! I'm thrilled to see your thread! I just bought a similar controller. particularly this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280817774618;jsessionid=770C53C30FE48015C45FCCD27C135842?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D280817774618%26_rdc%3D1#ht_5977wt_1139

I'm having similar problems! I connected my throttle to the "reverser cables", hooked up the speed switch, the hall cables and the power along with the door lock cable. I connected the white self-study cables and turned the controller on. The controller makes the motor go in a few steps and then starts spinning on its own and backwards. I turned the controller off after 10 seconds and turned it on again and nothing happens.

I'll try your method now. I was about to send the controller back. Thanks!

 

[sheikhuu]

Oh, i forgot to ask! Did you leave the anti-theft cables unplugged? and is the throttle that you used a hall throttle?

 

[itchynackers]

Ebike woody? J/K

lol

 

[dnmun]

Ebike woody? J/K

lol

"is that a diode in your pocket?"

 

[sheikhuu]

It Is working!! I used e-throttle from old small electric scooter. That one, that i bought was faulty.

putting into operation procedure

1. connect phase wires, connect hall wires
2. have unit off and twist e-throtle (this is important, controller must have discharged capacitors)
3. plug together learning wires
4. wheel must be free to spin, then turn controller on.

controller now self detect correct order of hall sonds and starts spinning.

5. hit the brake, and disconnect learning cables.

Thats all... if it is going backwards, then swap 2 random phase wires, and go from the begining.

I tried your method. It's not working.
I measured the voltage on the red wire for the throttle. It reads 4.3 Volts. I don't think that's good. The signal wire had a voltage from 0.8V (lowest/no throttle) to 3.65V (highest/full throttle). So i tried using a 5V regulator to power the throttle specifically LM7805. Went to 0.9V and 4.1V respectively, but still nothing.

Please, help.

 

[Matess]

Ebike woody? J/K

well... it is a strange photo

Oh, i forgot to ask! Did you leave the anti-theft cables unplugged? and is the throttle that you used a hall throttle?

yes, yes

I tried your method. It's not working.
I measured the voltage on the red wire for the throttle. It reads 4.3 Volts. I don't think that's good. The signal wire had a voltage from 0.8V (lowest/no throttle) to 3.65V (highest/full throttle). So i tried using a 5V regulator to power the throttle specifically LM7805. Went to 0.9V and 4.1V respectively, but still nothing.

Please, help.

speed cables
blue + black - (high speed)
black + gray - (low speed)

reverser cables are for throttle, red + black power, blue is signal from hall sond (well... i have a green wire there)

anti theft disconnected

e-abs is connected together...enables regenerative braking

sorry for so late answer, but i suspected email when new message will be in this topic...

 

[pff7]

Got a greentime controller problem myself -----was also suspecting the stock throttle. Back to the lab.....

 

[veloman]

I have the 72v version of this and just got it working today on my 9c, which is the same as the yescomusa motor wiring

Here goes:

thin red wire = ignition (on/off) connect to red + power lead to turn on
Throttle = cell man throttle black - green - red = black - blue - red , respectively
phase = all match = green - yellow - blue = green - yellow - blue
Hall - This is where it changes
blue to blue
green to yellow
yellow to green

 

[polecat]

I have the 1500W 60V version of this controller. Does anyone know if this controller operates without hall sensors? All my hall sensors self destructed when my stock controller failed. If I can operate this controller, without having to replace my hall sensors, I'll save myself half a week of work

 

[dansir413]

I have the 72v version of this and just got it working today on my 9c, which is the same as the yescomusa motor wiring

Here goes:

thin red wire = ignition (on/off) connect to red + power lead to turn on
Throttle = cell man throttle black - green - red = black - blue - red , respectively
phase = all match = green - yellow - blue = green - yellow - blue
Hall - This is where it changes
blue to blue
green to yellow
yellow to green

did you have any issues with the motor starting from a stand still? I've got the variable 48v/60v/72v version for my 9c clone and it stutters when trying to start from a stand still. I give it a little push and then engage the throttle and it takes off. Any idea what's happening with it?