frodus
10 kW
I wonder how much for the 150W 15V output modules.... I could use some 10A's
efreak said:Well friends I am learning ...but somehow i was using the top view instead of the bottom view... i was hooking positive in to negative in. Duh...
any how i think i fried the one for sure ( that's why i guess a diode is a good idea Doc!)
i hooked one module properly and saw 3.39 output wonderful!
now i need a decent way of attaching the resistor and pot to the bottom of the modules but they are in epoxy or some sort of soft surface that would be a challenge for me what you all suggest breadboard?
Yes.wjdennis said:I just received my BXB150 for testing. This is the FLT model, which I believe means that the RC pin is active low. So to turn on the unit, I connect the RC pin to the input's minus, and to turn off the unit I leave the RC pin unconnected. Is that correct?
Yes.wjdennis said:Another question. Based on the pictures that doc posted, it looks like the heat sink on the bottom is electrically isolated from the DC/DC, is that also correct?
70 of these 150W dc/dc's working flat out at 85% efficiency will give off something like 1.5Kw of heat. You'll need a large sheet of aluminum and strong fan(s) to keep them below the over-temp cut-off point (though it's good that this is a non-latching protection circuit, IIRC). It may be necessary to use a heatsink with fins and position the converters so they aren't placed too close together. I guess you'll just have to try it and see.wjdennis said:I'm thinking about attaching all of the converters to one big sheet of of 1/8-inch aluminum, and then bolting that sheet to the car's hood and blowing a fan across it. Sound like a viable plan?
more turns = more acurate setting. 12 should be fine.efreak said:Again thank you very much flip
what is the difference betwwen multi (12-- 25) turn pots and a single?
I'd think Doc knows best, ie. one fuse per coverter. 14 gague is good 5 amps no problem. How many watts are your converters rated for?i was thinking about using a 20 amp fuse in line from the main + supply to all four + wires to the modules . or do you suggest me using 4 fuses 1 per module like Docs picture?
also i am using 14 gauge wires i hope that's good!
Try putting a 12V car headlamp bulb across the outputs to check for output current. If it lights the bulb then it's working. Don't forget the sence wires if they're needed.again i am static about getting any kind of cuurent out of these modules
The max amps I see (charging 50Ah of 5 parallel Headway 10Ah cells to 3.65V) is 37A. It should be easy enough to quicky test how they behave with your larger Thundersky cells, just hook one up to a partly drained cell (assuming you have a way to measure the high-ish current that is). When I was testing these with a load resistor the voltage would drop off rapidly (to ~ 2.1V) if I tried to pull more amps from them. As the cell voltage reaches the set charge voltage then the amps drop off. I think that 5V 30A is the optimum for these; at 3.3V I doubt you'll get the full 150W output.wjdennis said:The BXB150's spec is 150W (5V at 30A). But I've read doc's comments here that they will supply 39A at a lower voltage. Why is that? I thought that the limiting would be on amps, not on watts. Are they really limiting the watts? If they're limiting on amps, I'd expect them to regulate to 30A, regardless of the voltage. I hope that if I set them to 3.3V, they're not going to put out 45A? Or does the 39A have nothing to do with voltage, but simply that they supply more than spec?
Bill