John Bozi
100 kW
Samd said:
YES would work well if change my mind and want a hub motor on it. Unfortunately dood hasn't replied yet.
Eagerly waiting...... and Im sure a few peeps would snap it up before me if I can't drive out there fast enough....
AM dual motor = bafang middrive + rear hub motor
- Thread starter John Bozi
- Start date
YES would work well if change my mind and want a hub motor on it. Unfortunately dood hasn't replied yet.
Eagerly waiting...... and Im sure a few peeps would snap it up before me if I can't drive out there fast enough....
John Bozi
100 kW
John Bozi said:Thanks Kiwi but hoping to buy local so I can personally check it as well shipping and handing cash to strangers.
Rotor burn is pissing me off! they aren't posting my messages or replies even though I have trading access............
I really want the m6, its just a plain sexy bike.
EDIT
Just spotted an m6 on gumtree fingers crossed! big long drive to check it out but Ill do it as its cheaper.
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/yandina/bicycles/2010-intense-cycles-m6-fro-medium-downhill-bike/1083447314
just to quote myself - Yes I have added her to stable!
HOw much would you pay for this beast?
I just started a new thread here for the M6 http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=71633 I hope all you guys subscribe and follow it too as I won't be posting anything on this thread apart from the Hasa bike build.
John Bozi
100 kW
The black bike's been jealous of all the attention to the red one, however, a few weeks ago I ordered a thread on disc brake adapter for the chinese hub motor from bicycledesigner.com and have now installed it with a spacer which I wish was a couple of mm wider.
It's great to have rear brakes again and have stopped using regen - to save both the axle/dropouts and less heat to an already overheating motor.
I still need to bleed the brakes and or space the rotor correctly as its constantly touching on one side. Not only that the rotor is warped - didn't realise it but must have happenedd when I broke the axle. When I take it off to fix it again (PITA) I think I will put on a hookworm.
I am still scratching my head whether I should keep this bike on road only as I said I would.... That way I know what kind of tyre to change the back to and consider trying for a speed on the bafang half way my topspeed of the hub. This would even the load on the motors.
I might start by going back to the stock 42t front chain ring for now (insetead of the 30t race face), this will also improve my chain line. Will have to buy a new chain again.....
It's great to have rear brakes again and have stopped using regen - to save both the axle/dropouts and less heat to an already overheating motor.
I still need to bleed the brakes and or space the rotor correctly as its constantly touching on one side. Not only that the rotor is warped - didn't realise it but must have happenedd when I broke the axle. When I take it off to fix it again (PITA) I think I will put on a hookworm.
I am still scratching my head whether I should keep this bike on road only as I said I would.... That way I know what kind of tyre to change the back to and consider trying for a speed on the bafang half way my topspeed of the hub. This would even the load on the motors.
I might start by going back to the stock 42t front chain ring for now (insetead of the 30t race face), this will also improve my chain line. Will have to buy a new chain again.....
John Bozi
100 kW
It's been a while since I posted thoughts about what has become my commuter for visits to parents and runs to the shops.
The interesting thing still is that I am running a two different motors. The bike now is pretty much a motorbike since I never pedal the granny gear.
The ratio of usage is relatively the same for on or off road so I have been thinking about how advantageous two motors are to constantly push around.
I know that basically I can't survive without the bafang as it stands now because my parent drive way is so long and steep.
However,
I have started to think that for an on road bike it may be more beneficial to flip the tables on what is high and low speed for mid drive and hub motor.
By having a single speed set to granny it means you can almost never pedal.
If the hub motor was like a 12t mac at around 30kmh peak but the mid drive was set to run at 30-55kmh it would mean I could peal all the time. Of course I wouldn't be able to pull the seriously extreme stuff, but on road is almost never that.
Just thinking out loud since I don't know if I might burn out my 1kw motor on almost 4kw that I am demanding from it. I reckon a geared 12t mac might be my next choice for this bike if I don't tear off the side covers.
p.s. I miss my Penny Chopper, I haven't gone off road for ages. A do it all bike is for the win.
The interesting thing still is that I am running a two different motors. The bike now is pretty much a motorbike since I never pedal the granny gear.
The ratio of usage is relatively the same for on or off road so I have been thinking about how advantageous two motors are to constantly push around.
I know that basically I can't survive without the bafang as it stands now because my parent drive way is so long and steep.
However,
I have started to think that for an on road bike it may be more beneficial to flip the tables on what is high and low speed for mid drive and hub motor.
By having a single speed set to granny it means you can almost never pedal.
If the hub motor was like a 12t mac at around 30kmh peak but the mid drive was set to run at 30-55kmh it would mean I could peal all the time. Of course I wouldn't be able to pull the seriously extreme stuff, but on road is almost never that.
Just thinking out loud since I don't know if I might burn out my 1kw motor on almost 4kw that I am demanding from it. I reckon a geared 12t mac might be my next choice for this bike if I don't tear off the side covers.
p.s. I miss my Penny Chopper, I haven't gone off road for ages. A do it all bike is for the win.
John Bozi
100 kW
Ummed and ahhhhrrreed for a long time which way to go but have done for way too long.
Since the Intense bike is unreliable in continual teething and since took a vital organ = controller from this hasa black build I have been with no bike at all recently.........
Finally pulled the trigger
Product Model Quantity Unit Price Total
3 speed Switch for EM3ev Infineon Controller 3SP 1 $5.00 $5.00
EM3ev Disc Spacer DISCSPACE 1 $4.00 $4.00
12 fet IRFB4110 Infineon Controller (Motor With Hall Sensors)
- Bar Mounted Power Switch Yes Please
- Phase Wire Connectors Bare Wire Please
- Battery Connectors Bare Wire Please
- Program Cable Yes Please 12F4110 1 $113.00 $113.00
Sub-Total: $122.00
DHL Zone 4 (Weight: 0.91kg): $24.90
PayPal fee: $5.44
Total:
About $220 au is not crash hot, but it will have to do.
Since the Intense bike is unreliable in continual teething and since took a vital organ = controller from this hasa black build I have been with no bike at all recently.........
Finally pulled the trigger
Product Model Quantity Unit Price Total
3 speed Switch for EM3ev Infineon Controller 3SP 1 $5.00 $5.00
EM3ev Disc Spacer DISCSPACE 1 $4.00 $4.00
12 fet IRFB4110 Infineon Controller (Motor With Hall Sensors)
- Bar Mounted Power Switch Yes Please
- Phase Wire Connectors Bare Wire Please
- Battery Connectors Bare Wire Please
- Program Cable Yes Please 12F4110 1 $113.00 $113.00
Sub-Total: $122.00
DHL Zone 4 (Weight: 0.91kg): $24.90
PayPal fee: $5.44
Total:
About $220 au is not crash hot, but it will have to do.
John Bozi
100 kW
Finally stopped riding the new red bike, and decided to spend a bit of time getting this black one back on the road.
I was thinking to use the 40a controller on the red bike, but I love breaking shit on it so much and throwing tons of power on it so it became obvious recently which controller goes where.
So far have dedicated my spare couple of hours a day to wiring up the new controller. phase, halls and throttle soldering...
For record:
hall combination is normal
yellow yellow green green blue blue
I wasted sometime predicting the gb swap... and have no nice plugs so hard wired everything rough as guts ghetto style.
In my next session I got serious tidying up to do. I knew I should have done my tyre swap and brake spacer stuff first but I learnt from dodgy greentime to make sure the most expensive things you buy should be test run as soon as possible.
I look forward to having a road bike again for trips to the shops that isn't as loud as the LR kit.
Other things to do in near future before I spend time any LR riding time:
align rear brake with spacer
change over to hookworm rear
consider large default bafang chainring since its onroad I want my granny to be a bit faster.
EDIT 16/01
Even though I'd like to fix everything now, I just saw how warped my disc brake is, and ordered for $8au
so will have to wait till I get that when I start modding more.
I was thinking to use the 40a controller on the red bike, but I love breaking shit on it so much and throwing tons of power on it so it became obvious recently which controller goes where.
So far have dedicated my spare couple of hours a day to wiring up the new controller. phase, halls and throttle soldering...
For record:
hall combination is normal
yellow yellow green green blue blue
I wasted sometime predicting the gb swap... and have no nice plugs so hard wired everything rough as guts ghetto style.
In my next session I got serious tidying up to do. I knew I should have done my tyre swap and brake spacer stuff first but I learnt from dodgy greentime to make sure the most expensive things you buy should be test run as soon as possible.
I look forward to having a road bike again for trips to the shops that isn't as loud as the LR kit.
Other things to do in near future before I spend time any LR riding time:
align rear brake with spacer
change over to hookworm rear
consider large default bafang chainring since its onroad I want my granny to be a bit faster.
EDIT 16/01
Even though I'd like to fix everything now, I just saw how warped my disc brake is, and ordered for $8au
so will have to wait till I get that when I start modding more.
Samer
100 W
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2014
- Messages
- 110
what your thoughts over the white industries freewheel?
are yours chainring wobble on a crank stoke freewheel system?
cheers man
are yours chainring wobble on a crank stoke freewheel system?
cheers man
John Bozi said:Drew you jump fine. Go up stairs better
So much dam rain. My city is getting dumped on by the end of a cyclone. Hardly ever get a chance to ride...
When I broke my chain the 4th time or second last time I said to myself if I ever use dual motor the mid drive has to go to single speed so it is always perfectly in gear.
I however said after conquering "rob's knob" I don't need granny as it is too slow to help the hub. which is true. but if I want to climb very long very steep stuff (quite rare but only because it gets avoided) then the 32t granny was still not enough.
So have ummed and ahhhhred for a long time to give up on the hub and just use bafang or get the
white industries 23t = maximum teeth which would work well with an ordinary derailleur or
get
Products Total
1 x HD Freewheel Removal Tool for HD freewheel $11.95
1 x Front Freewheel - Heavy Duty $79.95
1 x Chainring Hardware $4.49
As I just bought. Not cheap with the Aussie dollar at .75
The ultimate reason I went with the front freewheel is I hope if everything works out right. I can change my sprocket sizes. I can run I think anything from 24-52t quite easily and with offset teeth sprockets be able to dish stuff outwards a little.
Not too sure where to start but think I will order a 44t bafang front chainring and see if they fits at the back. I like the look of them because they are black and not solid metal.
I will probably still hook up my 10 speed shifter on the bike with the bafang for another month or more to just enjoy light riding (might fall in love) but have a feeling I might need my mountain goat back.....
This the new controller I plan to buy for the hub:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/24FET-IRFB4110-s-3000W-48-84V-80Amax-BLDC-motor-controller-EV-brushless-speed-controller-sensor-sensorless/522263950.html
dunno if its because of Chinese new year but can't get any contact with them about specifics
a sensorless 24fet 80amp - it should be bullet proof... big and long and will have to take up the downtube position.
John Bozi
100 kW
I own two of these freewheels.
1 I use to carry a 48t sprocket threaded onto the rear hub of this black bike. It has been perfect for ages and nothing to say about it more than that.
2. I bought for my mid drive on my red bike = the LR kit. I bought it in anticipation, there is wobble in the dicta freewheel even when it was brand new. so cant report on how it functions there yet.
1 I use to carry a 48t sprocket threaded onto the rear hub of this black bike. It has been perfect for ages and nothing to say about it more than that.
2. I bought for my mid drive on my red bike = the LR kit. I bought it in anticipation, there is wobble in the dicta freewheel even when it was brand new. so cant report on how it functions there yet.
John Bozi
100 kW
old black girl is back in action a lot recently since I cracked a link on the red trouble maker.
Planning to pull off the hub and true it, try to line up the disc brake better and swap a tyre over to dirt... it wont be anywhere near as much fun climbing at 10k an hour but lets see how she goes.... and lasts.... Will I break the axle on this lighter hub/.....
Planning to pull off the hub and true it, try to line up the disc brake better and swap a tyre over to dirt... it wont be anywhere near as much fun climbing at 10k an hour but lets see how she goes.... and lasts.... Will I break the axle on this lighter hub/.....
nutnspecial
10 MW
You're not thinking about getting a replacement link for the impulse, or having a welder fix/ beef up the old one? (or both of those things? they should have replacement links cheapish- if not under some warranty thing right?)
Imo it's not that bad of a 'weak link' <pun :lol: , because it's not too unsafe when failing, and looks easily fixed/replaced. If you would beef it up, strongly consider what the next weak link could be- it might be something not easily replacable/fixable.
Imo it's not that bad of a 'weak link' <pun :lol: , because it's not too unsafe when failing, and looks easily fixed/replaced. If you would beef it up, strongly consider what the next weak link could be- it might be something not easily replacable/fixable.
John Bozi
100 kW
I will get around to repairing the red one or completely overhauling it into something else.
priorities are to fix up the easiest one to be on the dirt soon. Forgot to mention I want to add fins and FF to the hub since it has proven so effective with my mates winning the race at the hunter valley festival.
priorities are to fix up the easiest one to be on the dirt soon. Forgot to mention I want to add fins and FF to the hub since it has proven so effective with my mates winning the race at the hunter valley festival.
John Bozi
100 kW
I used to keep the black bike for on road but it is now relatively off road ready. Have to have two off road bikes for my sanity since the lightning rods m6 is in constant mod mode breaking stuff.
$30 minions went for price but the side walls are like single ply compared to my $60 ones. Get what you pay for....
back to double motor.
$30 minions went for price but the side walls are like single ply compared to my $60 ones. Get what you pay for....
back to double motor.
John Bozi
100 kW
John Bozi
100 kW
drew12345 said:
no case
I just make polymorph cases to hold the camera solid to what ever without creaking screws etc.. I leave the audio holes open.... some cases are not that well designed creating more wind tunnel sound...
I'm not so worried about damaging it too now since its pretty old and the battery seems to be at its end of life.... wouldn't ride it straight through heavy rain though...
