Analog ammeter with or without shunt

[kje]

What is the difference on analog ammeter with and without a current shunt?

This ammeter doesn't need a current shunt:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-AC50A-Ana...453?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2b4c94fd

This ammeter does need a current shunt:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Analog-AMP-...241?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cdd3b6609

 

[amberwolf]

If it doens't need one, it has one built in. (like a Watts Up or Turnigy Watt Meter)

If it does need one, it's really just a voltmeter calibrated on it's face for amps, and it reads a voltage across a shunt you provide that must meet it's specifications (or it has settings like the Cycle Analyst does to tell it what the shunt is so ti can calculate from there).

 

[dogman dan]

Re the analog, I'd prefer something digital if it's going to live on the handlebars of a bike, or the dash of a vehicle.

The "blue wattmeter" on ebay is always cheap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-60V-100A-Battery-Power-Analyzer-Watt-Meter-Balancer-For-DC-RC-Helicopter-/190863796444?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c705e68dc

Or if you want the good stuff, get a Cycleanalyst.

 

[kje]

Thank you. I prefer the analog ammeter for a stationary install, it has no Operation Current.

One question:
Can I destroy the ammeter if it's current dimension is too small?

Ex. 10A ammeter in a system I draw 15A?

 

[kje]

What if overcurrent happens with a shunt? Will it act like a fuse?
Ex. 30A in a 20A shunt?

 

[amberwolf]

No.

Though if you keep drawing way too much current it could desolder itself if there is no cooling and it heats enough, I've had that happen in a cheap multimeter.

Well, if you pull ENOUGh current thru it it will melt, but it's likely something else will go befroe taht happens. I have seen a melted shunt in a controller that was hooked up backwards to it's battery, but that was probably hundreds of amps for the short time before teh caps and stuff blew up and the pack fuse blew.