Are there any good alternatives to the CA v3?
- Thread starter madnomad
- Start date
As far as I know there is nothing better at the same price. Chinese alternatives (for example lcd3) are not designed for standart controllers, as CA v3 that has the posibility to be used in every controller.
The rasonable and very cheap alternative I know is to put a classic speedometer, and a Voltmeter + ampmeter like this
http://aliexpress.com/item/DC-0-100...Meter-H1E1/2026514763.html?recommendVersion=1
The rasonable and very cheap alternative I know is to put a classic speedometer, and a Voltmeter + ampmeter like this
http://aliexpress.com/item/DC-0-100...Meter-H1E1/2026514763.html?recommendVersion=1
parajared
10 kW
not really, CA v3 rocks!
If money is an issue, a $5 cellmeter6 may be the ticket, but you would only be getting a "fuel gauge", not a watt meter.
If money is an issue, a $5 cellmeter6 may be the ticket, but you would only be getting a "fuel gauge", not a watt meter.
wesnewell
100 GW
There are all kinds of watt meters out there, but none that offers all the features of the CA. There's these;
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Toys-Hobbies-/220/i.html?_from=R40|R40&_nkw=watt+meter
I just ordered this to do some testing, and since va=w and I can do math, this is also a watt meter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-100V-100A-DC-Digital-Voltmeter-Ammeter-LED-Amp-Volt-Meter-Current-Shunt-/291079963241
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Toys-Hobbies-/220/i.html?_from=R40|R40&_nkw=watt+meter
I just ordered this to do some testing, and since va=w and I can do math, this is also a watt meter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-100V-100A-DC-Digital-Voltmeter-Ammeter-LED-Amp-Volt-Meter-Current-Shunt-/291079963241
Hmmm... not too descriptive of your specific issues or desires.madnomad said:
Perhaps it's not the device but just that the Guide let you down somehow - which is not good - but that shortfall may be able to be addressed....
Post to the V3 Beta Thread - maybe some tweaking will fix things...
You'll need to give an exact list of all the features you use in it that you want to replace, so we can give you a list of the separate devices you'll need to perform the various functions.madnomad said:
teklektik said:
amberwolf said:
Yeah sorry, I guess that wasn't especially contructive, and Tekletic, you've done a great job on the guide, although a lot of it is well above my level at the stage I'm at now, and at the beginning it completely fried my brain, although I guess that is to be expected if you're learning a new topic from scratch.
Here are a few ideas I'd like to see implemented in the CA v4 (any idea when its coming btw?):
A built in DC converter which can output 5v, 8.4v and 12v. I have spent soooo much time trying to find a solution to power my lights, and it seems like most people would love to power their lights from their CA, so this would save a lot of people a lot of time. It's also a pain having to conceal a bulky DC converter somewhere between the light and the CA.
I would like to see waterproof sockets on the CA to replace all the cables coming out of it. It's hard to know whether I should cut them off or if I'll want to use them at some point in the future.
It would like to see the screen replaced with a something a bit more up to date. LCD screens are pretty advanced these days and this one seems like something from the 80's (really not trying to be rude). It seems like the best idea would be to design it so an android or iphone could be used as the screen, and if this could be done via bluetooth then that would be fantastic. The mind boggles as to the new opportunities this would bring- music, GPS, rear view usb camera (on screen), etc etc etc.
I think a few settings seem to be unnecessary and complicate things. Maybe I'm wrong here, but couldn't the recommended "gain" settings be calculated automatically based on the power limits you enter?
Rodney64
100 kW
Depending on what you are running and if you have the cash an adaptto mini.e would be the way to go. Just so more user friendly. It also has the controller. For 450 us dollars
Rodney64
100 kW
madnomad said:
The problem with phones they shut down in the heat. So it needs to be its own identity. Yes sinking with the phone maybe ok but not as the screen.
Rodney64 said:
I'd have thought the wind would keep it cool while you're moving, but if the phone was connected wirelessly you could keep it in your pocket on very hot/wet days. It would also be good for people who want the flexibility of a CA but also want to keep their bike looking as "non-electric" as possible. Speaking of which, I have another suggestion- it would be good if you could turn the backlight off on the screen to make it a bit more subtle when necessary.
Connecting a phone to the CA could also add the option of only being able to use the CA when the phone is in bluetooth range, turning your phone into a key to unlock the bike- awesome. This would have to be overrideable, with a pin number or something, in case your phone battery dies. Actually, there's another idea- it would be good if you could set up a passcode to start the CA. Obviously it would have to be a binary passcode because there are only two buttons, but a nice easy idea that can be done with the existing CA.
Won't keep it cool with direct noon sunlight on the screen itself here in Phoenix. I've seen a few things killed like that. Some are temporary, and come back when they cool off, and some the screens stay dark or even solid black.madnomad said:
even the ca's simpler lcd gets darker in the heat here, though it' s not been permanent yet.
if one is using hte ca as speedo, it doesn't do any good if it's not viisible. same for capacity meter, though that oyuo ould at least stop to check, the speedo cna't be done that wya and is needed at random moments throughout a ride.
cant' argue the rest of your feature list, though.
I've just started using my Speedict again. It seems to be much more reliable now with the latest software version. It's a really useful device because it logs all the data. You can then have a look and study the data without having to worry whether someone is about to step out in front of you. I don't use the live display while I'm cycling because I already have a LCD that shows speed and distance, etc. Here's the sort of thing you can see afterwards. The graph shows the very flat current because the controller uses current control. The peak at 15A is where the Xiongda engaged its winch mode (low internal gear) to climb a short hill. I got a much better picture of what the controller was doing this way, which the CA wouldn't have shown. The downside is that you have to open up the app on your phone each time, but then I just keep the phone in my pocket as usual.
The speedict logs all your data, so you don't need to use you phone at all, except to download it all at the end of the week or whenever you want. The Speedict also has loads of other features that some might find appealing. It has a map mode for live navigation. It can mix PAS and throttle signals, and it can regulate the speed or power of your bike.
The speedict logs all your data, so you don't need to use you phone at all, except to download it all at the end of the week or whenever you want. The Speedict also has loads of other features that some might find appealing. It has a map mode for live navigation. It can mix PAS and throttle signals, and it can regulate the speed or power of your bike.
So does the CA, with the Cycle Analogger (or any other serial-port recorder attached to the CA's serial output).d8veh said:
That's $150 extra though. CA plus Analogger = $300. That's a lot of money for some of us. Speedict is $123.amberwolf said:So does the CA, with the Cycle Analogger (or any other serial-port recorder attached to the CA's serial output).d8veh said:
I thought this thread is supposed to be about alternatives to a CA anyway. I have three CAs. They have their advantages in some circumstances, but I can't really use them anymore because the modern controllers that I use have LCDs, which leaves no room for the CA. I guess this would be a problem for most people wanting to run with less than 1000w.
Even that is more than *I* can normally afford--I only have a CA at all cuz of the generosity of others, myself.d8veh said:
That's why I suggested a separate serial port logger, cuz there are likely a number of DIY or cheap ones like that; Sparkfun probably has some, and other places like that.
Sure, sorry, I'll leave y'all to it then, after this. I just tried to present an idea those reading/posting might not have thought of.
If the CA's control or other non-realtime-display features you want aren't in the controller or LCD, you could still use it and just mount it in the battery bag.
If you don't need the features, there's no reason to have one, anyway.
Only if they need to see that LCD--otherwise tehy could put it in the battery bag/box, and stick the CA on the bars. Depends on which info they need access to. MIght be they don't need either one.
FWIW, if all they need on a controler's LCD is the up/down buttons to select PAS/etc mode, or to turn it on and off, and don't need to see what the actual display says, those buttons can be moved to a separate handlebar control (like the one that came with my FUsin kit's LCD unit).
cycborg
1 kW
This is why I moved my CA2 from my cockpit to my battery bag. Then I took it out of service altogether because it was so bulky and it roughly doubled my battery bag’s rat’s nest of cables. Speedict certainly looks compact and more feature-rich, so I’m tempted to try it.d8veh said:
Looking through the main Speedict thread, there are a couple things that concern me that maybe you could address. First, it sounds like the data download time is really slow, like 20 minutes. Has this been improved? Also, there were some problems with inrush current damaging the device; any comment on that? Thanks.
markz
100 TW
Whats the difference between
http://speedict.com/
and
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/cycle-analysts/ca3-dp.html
http://speedict.com/
and
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/cycle-analysts/ca3-dp.html
A little reading on those sites ought to give you a hint or two.
And if that's not enough, there's lots of discussion about them here on ES, including each one of them's primary threads.
And if that's not enough, there's lots of discussion about them here on ES, including each one of them's primary threads.
markz
100 TW
Ya Im too lazy at 2am. Time for bed!
Download times are not fast. The last time I did it, it said it would be 37 minutes, but only took 5 or 10 minutes. I went and made a cup of tea after my ride, and when I came back it was done. I don't see it as a big problem as long as you can multitask.cycborg said:
I bought my Speedicts two years ago. They haven't been wiped out by inrush, but I only use 36v and 48v. I guess the higher you go, the more likely it'll get damaged. It would be better to ask Speedict about that. Maybe he changed something. He's still in business and posts on ES, so we could assume that his product is sorted.
cycborg said:
1. as per my experiences, my speedict download ~ 1:20 ratio e.g. for 1 hours log need ~ 3 minutes to complete.
2. depended on your pack voltage, according to specification the voltage limit ~80v you need to take inrush into account, that's mean when pack voltage is 80v you might need anti-inrush circuit to prevent over-voltage, and connect speedict to battery prior to speed controller also can help because speed controller's big capacitor can catch big inrush ....
i have 2 speedict with 48v pack for 1 and 1/2 year without any issues, good luck.
cycborg
1 kW
Thanks for the feedback. My pack is 52 V so sounds like inrush won’t be an issue. Download time sounds annoying but workable, but I make my tea in the morning, so I’ll have to find some other way to occupy myself.
