Arlo's power stage Leaf controller runs and drives page 103

I picked X7R rated caps for all the caps on the board
i generally do the same. only time i move away from X7R is if i have special purpose, like timing circuits where cap value needs to be more stable. i'm talking here of analog & digital design. for power inverter stage, the 3-phase H-bridge DC link cap and snubber cap, at your power level, those caps will not be X7R for sure.
 
HighHopes said:
I picked X7R rated caps for all the caps on the board
i generally do the same. only time i move away from X7R is if i have special purpose, like timing circuits where cap value needs to be more stable. i'm talking here of analog & digital design. for power inverter stage, the 3-phase H-bridge DC link cap and snubber cap, at your power level, those caps will not be X7R for sure.
You confuse me? Did you make a typo?
 
most caps for digital or analog application, including low voltage bulk storage = X7R
timing circuits = C0G
Power = MKP, metalized film, poly etc.
 
HighHopes said:
most caps for digital or analog application, including low voltage bulk storage = X7R
timing circuits = C0G
Power = MKP, metalized film, poly etc.
Thank you.
It was my misunderstanding. I read what you said as not to use the X7R Caps. But you were pointing out for the High voltage rails which I have the 1 big cap from the leaf which I believe is a multi cap in one housing.
Thanks again for all your help.
 
HighHopes said:
only hard part is to find a zener that reaaches the zener voltage with 250uA applied to it. read the datasheet. ignore ones that are ~1mA (common) and look for more hard to find 100 to 300uA ones.
This is what Im getting at most are rated at 1-20mA and they don't give a search feature to make this easy.
Would the "Current - Reverse Leakage @ Vr" be what I'm looking at to get close like say 50uA at 1v or something??
So ~250uA reverse current?? This is different then I have been looking at. I think this is making sense now...
 
Ok so this time I think Im confident I found it. http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/MMSZ5221BT1-D.PDF
Digikey number MMSZ5222BT1GOSCT-ND
 
i do not think your zener is a good choice, but figure 9 of the datasheet seems to imply it will work just fine.

for the record, this is the part i am using in my EV high performance motor drive DDZ9692
 
HighHopes said:
i do not think your zener is a good choice, but figure 9 of the datasheet seems to imply it will work just fine.

for the record, this is the part i am using in my EV high performance motor drive DDZ9692
So I searched Everything from Diodes inc. Like yours and 2 come up in the 2.5v search! One is a SOT23-3 and the other is through hole! NEITHER are in stock :)
 
you can try the one you found. the footprint will be re-useable for other zeners if that one does not work. really easy to determine that on the bench, so give it a go.
 
Yup I'm going to place the order for boards tonight. I did change the pull down resistors back and will used 4.7k instead of 10k.
I started working on the brain board I will post the sch and pcb files soon.
 
Arlo1 said:
HighHopes said:
most caps for digital or analog application, including low voltage bulk storage = X7R
timing circuits = C0G
Power = MKP, metalized film, poly etc.
Thank you.
It was my misunderstanding. I read what you said as not to use the X7R Caps. But you were pointing out for the High voltage rails which I have the 1 big cap from the leaf which I believe is a multi cap in one housing.
Thanks again for all your help.

Wouldn't say "just the ACPL-333J" with 2A be consider a power stage, then the booster with 8A .... so you could say MKP would be better suited for this rail support role. But for less than 25V rating they aren't stabilizing much power.

Just to highlight HighHopes comments..
Digital and Analogue need stable capacitance ....
Timing need accurate capacitance over voltage range and temp range ...
power rails needs bulky capacitance at RAIL set to say 70% of max voltage over 25V with low esr over temp range

thanks Zombies for pointing out the phase to phase issue Arlin was getting at.
I was thinking just about the Driver Power requirement.

Center-Aligned PWM (CAPwm) is very handy ...
The CAPwm helps the big HV Cap as well spreading the Switching points across the Period instead of the one edge.
As their is continuous currents flowing in each phase wire at all times, there will be more gradual changes to the current curves dI/dt shapes.
With all three phases with CAPwm, the Ripple will have a "Spread Spectrum" as the intervals between edges (Rise or Fall) will be varying all the time.
So putting the phase current through the FFT on the Scope and won't show a definite 40kHz it will result in a time averaged hump starting at 20kHz peaking above 40kHz perhaps above 60kHz.
With the three interacting you can't say 60kHz either.
.... I'm just guessing ... trying to think it through .... real tests would be golden.


Zombies your test of your Booster stage D45VH10/D44VH10 TO-220's is a bit hard to relate.
I wonder what you had as the Gate resistor ON and OFF, was it 20 on and 20//20 = 10 for OFF
Plus a bit extra current from the 40ohm to the driver chip.

With no pcb circuit inductance peak current for 20ohm is 15/20 = 0.75A
With circuit inductance considered it would be peak lower later.
Where you just using the 0.104ohm current sense resistor. And no Larger Gate Resistor for the test into the 1uF Cap.

Also
C = q/V so your 1uF at 15V holds ... q = C. V = 15 * 1u = 15 uC or 15 000 nC

your 3 x IRFP4568 are just 3 x 170 nC = 510 nC at 12V so around 600 nC for 0V to 15V.
and the FUJI big block is around 5000 nC for -9V to 15V

So the 1uF is massive ... and the ESR would look very different.
So the On/OFF times will be quite long... for a known resistance etc

I did do a bit of a hunt through your thread a few days ago to see tests on the driver board but missed these pic's ... are they in your thread zombies??
Then you posted the goodies ...

I think I'll post to your thread as this a bit off topic as the test confuses what Arlin needs.
See >>> http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=960867#p960867



On the Zener issue ..
The Vz for the I_ZT needs to have I_ZT less than 250uA but the specs sheet only shows graphs like HighHopes points out.

From the Zeners you have linked COMCHIP, ON-SEMI and DIODES INC.
The COMCHIP has a nice range shown in figure 7. with more stable looking Vz near 0.250 mA.
All the brands of zeners have negative mV/degC for zeners with Vz less than 5V which would be good to compensate a MOSFET but IGBT needs positve to compensate for its negative Vce change for temp.
Also MOSFETs need a larger zener like 5V6 if the DESAT point is lower... but not always... for some the Rds may push Vds over 3V.

ON-SEMI figure 9 only shows small selection of the devices (without naming them), so with some missing it's shows how hard it is to pick a device from the spec sheet.
Same with DIODES INC. many missing from Fig 4 (and Fig 3) but they identify them.

But from the curves to get 2.5V at 250uA you may need to select a 2V7 COMCHIP zener CZRU52C2V7

Maybe 3 series diodes would be more accurate for 250uA and have a positive temp co-efficient.

Have you picked the blocking diode?

Regarding the Pull-Down Resistors shown in the 333J SPEC may be there to divert leakage current from the Booster Stage Transistors.
- So they placed it straight after them.
- If the 333J Vout failed and the coomon base point was floating their circuit with only one ON/OFF Rg may float high.
so you want the Gate to turn off under all failures. So pull it to Neg Rail AND/OR/BOTH the Emitter.
And end up with two forming a Divider to the neg rail.
It gets crazy thinking about too many options.... my heads in seven circles ... :lol:

Do you plan to fit the IGBT block to the chill-plate soon. Or at least make sure it will all fit okay with out holes passing through to the liquid layer if it is too thin. or have to add intermediate base-plate???
 
Arlo1 said:
HighHopes said:
i do not think your zener is a good choice, but figure 9 of the datasheet seems to imply it will work just fine.

for the record, this is the part i am using in my EV high performance motor drive DDZ9692
So I searched Everything from Diodes inc. Like yours and 2 come up in the 2.5v search! One is a SOT23-3 and the other is through hole! NEITHER are in stock :)


I did a digikey search for 150mW or less and Zener Volts over range 2.4V to 3.4V and "cut tape" for MOQ of 1
http://www.digikey.com.au/product-s...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25


32 to chosee from.....

Lots in stock....
Ahhh :roll:
But that's digikey.com.au Australia then tried digikey.ca and got .. 33
http://www.digikey.ca/product-searc...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

So also panasonic and bourns and others to choose... that re in stock.
 
Yes then when you look at the data sheet only a couple are rated at .25mA or 250uA
 
7circle said:
On the Zener issue ..
The Vz for the I_ZT needs to have I_ZT less than 250uA but the specs sheet only shows graphs like HighHopes points out.

From the Zeners you have linked COMCHIP, ON-SEMI and DIODES INC.
The COMCHIP has a nice range shown in figure 7. with more stable looking Vz near 0.250 mA.
All the brands of zeners have negative mV/degC for zeners with Vz less than 5V which would be good to compensate a MOSFET but IGBT needs positve to compensate for its negative Vce change for temp.
Also MOSFETs need a larger zener like 5V6 if the DESAT point is lower... but not always... for some the Rds may push Vds over 3V.

ON-SEMI figure 9 only shows small selection of the devices (without naming them), so with some missing it's shows how hard it is to pick a device from the spec sheet.
Same with DIODES INC. many missing from Fig 4 (and Fig 3) but they identify them.

But from the curves to get 2.5V at 250uA you may need to select a 2V7 COMCHIP zener CZRU52C2V7

Maybe 3 series diodes would be more accurate for 250uA and have a positive temp co-efficient.

Have you picked the blocking diode?Yes as I posted a few posts ago It is 1kv rated Digikey number CMR1-10M DKR-ND

Regarding the Pull-Down Resistors shown in the 333J SPEC may be there to divert leakage current from the Booster Stage Transistors.
- So they placed it straight after them.
- If the 333J Vout failed and the coomon base point was floating their circuit with only one ON/OFF Rg may float high.
so you want the Gate to turn off under all failures. So pull it to Neg Rail AND/OR/BOTH the Emitter.
And end up with two forming a Divider to the neg rail.
It gets crazy thinking about too many options.... my heads in seven circles ... :lol: I did think about this but I think its overkill

Do you plan to fit the IGBT block to the chill-plate soon. Or at least make sure it will all fit okay with out holes passing through to the liquid layer if it is too thin. or have to add intermediate base-plate???
Yes I have them sitting in place I machined it out in the corners to fit the igbts today I just need to drill and tap holes and im not worried about this because the old igbts were bolted down and the screw holes did not go though so I will just use the same bolt thread and depths as the old ones.
 
HighHopes said:
The dc/dc need a minimum load of 10%.
you can put a "do not populate" pad right at the transformer where you have the room (or two parallel 1206 pads to share the load). then solder on resistor as you need. i wouldn't use an LED, things are prone to failure and i want this gate driver to last 20 years.
So I got the boards and installed the power supplies first (which I need to change because I got the offset wrong but no big deal) and I tested the outputs.
The 9v was putting out 12.5 and the 15v was putting out 28v so I added one 1000 ohm 1/4 watt resistor to each of them separately on the output from + to - and they came down to 10.25 for the 9v supply and 16.5v for the 15v supply unloaded other then the 1k resistor it self.
Is this the best way to do it or should I use a zener? Or.... I don't think in normal use the 1/4 watt resistor will be having to deal with quite as much energy because the average voltage in use will always be lower. So what do you guys think?
My hunch is this is ok. Although I am right at the limits of the 1/4 watt rating on the 15v supply it will be loaded down more in use.
 
populate the entire gate drive except the power mosfet. in place of the mosfet, solder a capacitor with uF value equivalent to your mosfet's effective capacitance (or if this is your leaf inverter, then we're talking about the IGBT's effective gate capacitance). the cap is installed where the IGBT's gate/emitter would be.

now you are safe to test without risk of destroying expensive IGBT. you may have to short out the desat diode so you do not trip off (it is open circuit in this scenario because there is nothing connecting to the Collector pad since no IGBT installed). you would short desat diode to emitter pad.

now do not apply ANY PWM. its a static non-operating circuit that has power to the input side (primary) of the DC/DC converter so that your gate driver can be powered (but not switching). measure gate/emitter voltage. is it <20V? it MUST be, else you risk destroying IGBT.

after that, you can test PWM. start with a low frequency switching, say 5kHz. watch voltage waveform and use laser temperature sensor to measure temp of key components (DC/DC converter, gate driver IC, ON/OFF resistors, boost transistors). then increase by 2kHz and repeat. keep going until you get to 10% higher than your intended application switching frequency.. or if voltage waveform starts to look bad or if a temp gets too high.

next you'll want to test the failure protection. open circuit the desat short created earlier and you should get a shutdown. do you have under voltage protection? you need to find a way to test that it works.

repeat for all 6 drives. but you can go faster as now you are not testing the design but that you populated the parts properly and no problem with layout.

next you are ready to test with IGBT.. where you must move even slower because risk of $ down drain just went up. make sure your failure mode protections work first. and go slowly. quickest way to fail an IGBT is by over voltage on collector.
 
Perfect timing and thank you the cap idea is great. I will be working on this tonight and tomorrow :)
 
some small comments
The 9v was putting out 12.5 and the 15v was putting out 28v so I added one 1000 ohm 1/4 watt resistor
now you have experienced why gate driver power supplies need to be capable of light load conditions, especially for unregulated topology. but i am not concerned for your design because it is a one-off with no requirement for efficiency of even volume (i.e. it will not cost you >$1000 in a penalty fine). but did you solve it in the right way? adding a resistor +/- puts an immediate load which is the simple way to solve. is 1/4watt resistor appropriate?

P = V^2/R = 16.5^2/1000 = 272mW
You said you put 1/4W rated resisitor? that's not big enough. move up to 1/2W so life of component is back in to the "many years" range.

ps. after your gate driver assembly and test, you are ready for the "double pulse test" which not only characterizes your power bridge, but also is a controlled (read "safe") way to first test your expensive IGBTs.

ps.s. you should go back and update your schematic with that resistor because if anyone uses your design in the future it will be destructive without that resistor. also you should put a note saying that its because the power supply is not a good choice (i.e. who ever uses your design to build in the future will know what to change to make it better and they will not need resistor)
 
HighHopes said:
some small comments
The 9v was putting out 12.5 and the 15v was putting out 28v so I added one 1000 ohm 1/4 watt resistor
now you have experienced why gate driver power supplies need to be capable of light load conditions, especially for unregulated topology. but i am not concerned for your design because it is a one-off with no requirement for efficiency of even volume (i.e. it will not cost you >$1000 in a penalty fine). but did you solve it in the right way? adding a resistor +/- puts an immediate load which is the simple way to solve. is 1/4watt resistor appropriate?
What is the right way? I found I can adjust the input voltage to get the output within range. So should I put a liner regulator on the input or output or just a zener or just a resistor on the or Zener parallel to a resistor on the output??? I will revise this for the next batch.
P = V^2/R = 16.5^2/1000 = 272mW
You said you put 1/4W rated resisitor? that's not big enough. move up to 1/2W so life of component is back in to the "many years" range.

ps. after your gate driver assembly and test, you are ready for the "double pulse test" which not only characterizes your power bridge, but also is a controlled (read "safe") way to first test your expensive IGBTs. I am just about there I have some funny box that might be a signal generator.... otherwise I will see what I can produce.

ps.s. you should go back and update your schematic with that resistor because if anyone uses your design in the future it will be destructive without that resistor. also you should put a note saying that its because the power supply is not a good choice (i.e. who ever uses your design to build in the future will know what to change to make it better and they will not need resistor)
I will fix this asap. I only have so much time/money and if people want to follow this and order boards its at their own risk.
 
What is the right way?
light load capable power supply. its usually mentioned as a feature on the datasheet if you buy it, or you have to design it in if you create from scratch.

keep an eye on your power supply temperature as you test your switching capacitor at different frequencies. you now have a load 250mW greater than what you originally projected. this is why i suggested you start at 5kHz frequency in the test method description i gave a couple posts back
 
Almost there. Pretty exciting stuff. [youtube]WuNrohfgRXI[/youtube]
 
I should be able to use a -5 for the off instead of the -9 because I'm also using the clamp. The input voltage can be adjusted to increase of decrease the output voltage.
If I run a -5 then I can turn up the input voltage to get the +15 a little higher because as it is now the gate only sees about +13.4v it would be nice to get this a touch higher if I can. I also removed the 1k load resistors and replaced them with 18v zeners on the 15v supplies to keep the voltage in a safe range but keep the parasitic load down when the system is in use.
 
aye but when your gate driver is not driving PWM but just sitting idle, the output voltage will climb (or try to climb) to 28V and your zeners will burn out in no time and then your IGBT will be destroyed 5 seconds after that.

voltage across zener.. 28V - 18V = 10V. current limited by gate resistors (3 ohm?) current in to zener is 10V/3ohm = ~3.3A. surely your zener is not rated for that current.
 
HighHopes said:
aye but when your gate driver is not driving PWM but just sitting idle, the output voltage will climb (or try to climb) to 28V and your zeners will burn out in no time and then your IGBT will be destroyed 5 seconds after that.

voltage across zener.. 28V - 18V = 10V. current limited by gate resistors (3 ohm?) current in to zener is 10V/3ohm = ~3.3A. surely your zener is not rated for that current.
I don't think you understand where I placed the Zener.
The Zener will just be across the supply output it self so its a 18v zener on the 15v supply. How much current is the supply pushing when its unloaded at 18v which is 3v over its rated output. Also I can adjust the input voltage to keep the output below 18v so it will not need the zener. I can also add a very light load on the output with say a 2.2k or 4.7k load just to help the Zener if needed. I will look into how to make my own isolated supply in the future but I-m 35 years old how long do I need to work at this before running it?
To keep a load on it before I put a 1000 ohm resistor on the output NOT 3 OHMS! it was wasting ~ 1/4 watt so in hopes of looking at how to reduce the load on them because I saw with the thermal cam they were getting a bit warm. So I reduced the input voltage and put a zener on there for a Just in case thing.
 
but I-m 35 years old how long do I need to work at this before running it?
that must be a rhetorical question, you don't really want to know the answer to that question :p
 
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