Bafang BBSxx - fault finding and fixes
- Thread starter Slowrider
- Start date
skuutti
100 µW
mphoto said:
That is exatly the same problem that I have. Mine is only worse.
I will order the new plastic gear (including the clutch) and report back if this fixes this issue.
tomjasz
1 GW
EM3ev responded immediately, 24 hours, to a warranty problem and I had the parts in a matter of days. Thankfully I listened to the old timers here and purchased my first kit from Paul.
speedmd
10 MW
Just confirmed that my new (replacement) controller is on its way. The new (latest) bbs02 750w controller is listed as a 20A unit based on what my supplier is saying. New cable style connections also. Hopefully all here soon. Hopefully it lasts.
Hi all, I have contacted my supplier http://www.cnebikes.com/ and they are taking my concerns to Bafang, re; 'noise when peddle assist engages'. CNE has been fantastic to deal with and very quick on response time, even sometimes on the weekends. I will keep you all updated on what happens.
tomjasz
1 GW
Um, how do you view their pricing and shipping costs? All by email?mphoto said:
BTW It is always helpful to list your location in your profile.
speedmd
10 MW
I have started de- potting my bad controller enough to possible fix / upgrade it. Anyone have any tricks to doing this without damaging anything else on it. It is soft rubbery material that cuts easily, and a bit time consuming to just pick away at it.
jateureka
10 kW
I dug the potting out of my Aprilia controller case so I could mount a generic one there and still use the controllers case to mount the side panels.
Best way is to use a heat gun to soften the potting and take your time.
Best way is to use a heat gun to soften the potting and take your time.
tomjasz
1 GW
You location doesn't show unless someone takes the time to go to your profile. I you go to your profile control and put in your location I think it will then show up in your posts.
So back to my question, your source doesn't show pricing. Or is it just blocked by location of viewer?
So back to my question, your source doesn't show pricing. Or is it just blocked by location of viewer?
Hello everyone. I have a bafang crank drive which has has about 2000 miles on it. I think its a bbs02 from memory. It chewed through a chain and a 13t rear sprocket within 1900 miles so much that the chain would skip teeth even using moderate throttle. I thought the motor had broken and was slipping as I have never worn out cogs on a bike before. Shows the power of the unit!
However now I have the new parts installed and have covered about 100 miles I have a new problem with the motor I think. I realised that the drive flange which has the chain ring attached seemed to be jamming up and at one point was trying to rotate the whole motor unit about the BB.
I took the chain off to investigate and thought it might just be grit so flushed the small groove where the flange meets the casing with solvent and compressed air but there is intermittent scraping noises still. To be honest there has been scraping on and off since it was virtually new as I ride in all weathers and grit does get in somewhere. I am therefore not too worried about this.
What does worry me is that there seems to be rumbling/knocking noises especially when the power is applied/cut/reapplied. I think its a bearing noise. The drive flange with the chain ring on seems to have some play that I don't remember it having before. I picked off the dust cover to the sealed bearing which is visible on the end of the shaft, repacked it with grease, and re-assembled. This does not seem to have fixed anything.
I am therefore going to embark upon a more comprehensive, -motor out of frame- disassembly to diagnose. I daren't ride it anymore as something is seriously wrong. My battery took an extra 20 mins to charge today indicating some sort of friction/drag I think. Hopefully some of you may be kind enough to advise if I supply pictures of anything I find.
Thanks.
However now I have the new parts installed and have covered about 100 miles I have a new problem with the motor I think. I realised that the drive flange which has the chain ring attached seemed to be jamming up and at one point was trying to rotate the whole motor unit about the BB.
I took the chain off to investigate and thought it might just be grit so flushed the small groove where the flange meets the casing with solvent and compressed air but there is intermittent scraping noises still. To be honest there has been scraping on and off since it was virtually new as I ride in all weathers and grit does get in somewhere. I am therefore not too worried about this.
What does worry me is that there seems to be rumbling/knocking noises especially when the power is applied/cut/reapplied. I think its a bearing noise. The drive flange with the chain ring on seems to have some play that I don't remember it having before. I picked off the dust cover to the sealed bearing which is visible on the end of the shaft, repacked it with grease, and re-assembled. This does not seem to have fixed anything.
I am therefore going to embark upon a more comprehensive, -motor out of frame- disassembly to diagnose. I daren't ride it anymore as something is seriously wrong. My battery took an extra 20 mins to charge today indicating some sort of friction/drag I think. Hopefully some of you may be kind enough to advise if I supply pictures of anything I find.
Thanks.
Kepler
10 MW
Sounds like the screws that hold the final gear to the crank freewheel are loose. You will need to remove the crank assembly from the drive. You then need to remove the C clip holding the PAS sensor disc and remove the disc. You will find the 5 screws under there.
You will then need to clean the threads with brake cleaner or similar and re install the screws with plenty do medium strength (blue) loctite.
More detail on this can be found if you do a search on this thread and the main thread.
Hopefully that will solve the issue.
You will then need to clean the threads with brake cleaner or similar and re install the screws with plenty do medium strength (blue) loctite.
More detail on this can be found if you do a search on this thread and the main thread.
Hopefully that will solve the issue.
So much for this being a quiet kit , it seems its only quiet for the first few hundred km's and then all this clicking and popping noise start ?? some of the videos have a very loud noises and they say the cyclone kits are noisy !! this is even worse when these things play up ands near damn near impossible to fix so many custom gears and parts.
speedmd
10 MW
Every new product has teething problems. No comparison in noise level between the two. This kit is as silent as they get and the Cyclone is not even close. For the folks that ride until the stuff breaks, you get what you get. Do you drive with the check engine light on in the car? Do you ride with ear plugs or your ear pods in your ears while listening to music? 
The stuff does not fix itself and is bound to have some issues. If you expect it perfect, you need to wait at least a few revisions on most anything.
The stuff does not fix itself and is bound to have some issues. If you expect it perfect, you need to wait at least a few revisions on most anything.thanks for the fast respone, I am at work but took my lunch half hour to take a look. If you mean the front cog being loose on the mounting flange it doesn't seem to be, when you move it the whole assembly moves a little on the bearing.
I have 2 issues.
1. the whole motor unit is loose in the BB. in top gear, wheels on the ground, if you jab the throttle to make the motor run the motor unit can be observed moving in the BB. Not just rotationally but up and down too. This is a bit worrying as it was a super tight fit when it went in scraping the black paint off and requiring winding/ screwing to make the motor saw its way into the BB. Clearly there is some deformation now or at least it needs tightening or shimming to fix.
2. The bearing noise is still present but not all the time, there is a roughness to the whole motor and by grabbing different parts with my hand whilst pulsing the motor on/off I believe the issue to lie within the front part of the motor (the round barrel bit with moulded cooling fins on it that says 8FUN). The part that the front chainring attaches to which I would class as the 'final drive' part seems to be quiet now having removed the scraping debris using my earlier air/pb blaster efforts.
I am not entirely familiar with the internals of this motor but I suspect maybe nylon cog or a bearing in this area or a broken bit in there.
I will of course try the front chainring first though as you suggested. I thought I could get it off with the motor still in the frame by rotating the wheel and putting a screwdriver through from the other side of the bike. The reason I am reluctant to pull the motor is that the wiring is all run incredibly well in a stealth fashion! Needs must though.
I think the product is superb and would buy another one tomorrow.
I have 2 issues.
1. the whole motor unit is loose in the BB. in top gear, wheels on the ground, if you jab the throttle to make the motor run the motor unit can be observed moving in the BB. Not just rotationally but up and down too. This is a bit worrying as it was a super tight fit when it went in scraping the black paint off and requiring winding/ screwing to make the motor saw its way into the BB. Clearly there is some deformation now or at least it needs tightening or shimming to fix.
2. The bearing noise is still present but not all the time, there is a roughness to the whole motor and by grabbing different parts with my hand whilst pulsing the motor on/off I believe the issue to lie within the front part of the motor (the round barrel bit with moulded cooling fins on it that says 8FUN). The part that the front chainring attaches to which I would class as the 'final drive' part seems to be quiet now having removed the scraping debris using my earlier air/pb blaster efforts.
I am not entirely familiar with the internals of this motor but I suspect maybe nylon cog or a bearing in this area or a broken bit in there.
I will of course try the front chainring first though as you suggested. I thought I could get it off with the motor still in the frame by rotating the wheel and putting a screwdriver through from the other side of the bike. The reason I am reluctant to pull the motor is that the wiring is all run incredibly well in a stealth fashion! Needs must though.
I think the product is superb and would buy another one tomorrow.
Kepler
10 MW
aniken said:
No I dont mean the bolts that hold the chain ring on. The screws I am talking about are short countersunk headed screws. They are easy to get to. You will need to remove the gear cover first then remove the 2 locking rings on the left hand side of the crank. Be careful and take note of the order. There are thrust bearings in there that lose their balls quite easily.
Kepler
10 MW
Gab said:
Mine clocked up 2500km. It has needed a bit of TLC along the way to keep it in tip top condition. Mine is still as quiet as the day I bought it. To be honest, even if it had a catastrophic failure tomorrow (Which I doubt), I wouldn't feel hard done by and would go straight out and replace it.
Okay so hopefully the following videos explain the issue. I assembled the bike over a year ago and I obviously forgot how it went together so my previous posts didnt make much sense. Only the chainguard can be removed with a screwdriver obviously! Sorry if they are too long, its the first time I have ever made or uploded videos for the net! Thanks.
http://youtu.be/eboppfQ3s4A
http://youtu.be/XqOHZEy9NcQ
http://youtu.be/eboppfQ3s4A
http://youtu.be/XqOHZEy9NcQ
Kepler
10 MW
Sounds shocking. Remove the crank assembly complete with the final gear and inspect all the bearings. It does sound like a failed bearing to me. Give it another run without the final gear installed and see how that sounds so you can work out if you need to strip it down further.
speedmd
10 MW
jateureka said:
Thanks. It does help to heat it, but still is a very touchy job. Hopefully the replacement is here soon.
Kepler
10 MW
You need to go back to the start of this thread and read from the beginning. The failure you most Likely have is a worn shaft or failed bearing on the non drive side of the rotor as discussed in detail at the start of this thread. I think this is a more common problem on earlier drives like yours and I believe they updated the rotor assembly in later models to correct this problem.
My drive suffered the same problem at about the 1000km mark. I got to it before it got too bad and loctite'd the shaft into the bearing. It has been fine ever since.
This is how my drive sounds 2500km down the road. On the bike, the drive is practically inaudible.
[youtube]KFzc9yYgcXU[/youtube]
Getting the drive pulled down further is not difficult but it does need to be done in the correct order. Remove the Controller section completely first. Then remove the motor side section carefully pulling the cables through the grommets. You will need to work the silicon loose around the plugs carefully. The rest is generally explained earlier in this thread.
This could actually be done without removing the drive from the bike if you prefer not unsolder your battery connections.
In regards to water proof battery connections, I would suggest using 4mm bullets, connect them up and then heat shrink over the top. This will be fully waterproof and at least you can cut the heat shrink off and disconnect if you need to.
My drive suffered the same problem at about the 1000km mark. I got to it before it got too bad and loctite'd the shaft into the bearing. It has been fine ever since.
This is how my drive sounds 2500km down the road. On the bike, the drive is practically inaudible.
[youtube]KFzc9yYgcXU[/youtube]
Getting the drive pulled down further is not difficult but it does need to be done in the correct order. Remove the Controller section completely first. Then remove the motor side section carefully pulling the cables through the grommets. You will need to work the silicon loose around the plugs carefully. The rest is generally explained earlier in this thread.
This could actually be done without removing the drive from the bike if you prefer not unsolder your battery connections.
In regards to water proof battery connections, I would suggest using 4mm bullets, connect them up and then heat shrink over the top. This will be fully waterproof and at least you can cut the heat shrink off and disconnect if you need to.
