bafang motor with 9 wires

8fun_fan

10 mW
Joined
Dec 6, 2014
Messages
22
Hi I have been around for quite a long time and have learn a lot from ES.
I am building a kit by myself with a bafang 250w QSWXB, brushless planetary front hub and a Lyen controller.

The motor has his own connector with 3 big pins ( for the 3 phases) and 6 ( yes six) small pins for the halls ?
here is the connector sorry for the crap focusing
qqwcjt.jpg

As I couldn´t find a similar connector I just cut it and see inside:
Three cables : green , yellow , blue
6 small cables : red, black, green , yellow, blue and white.

What I read is that usually there are 5 cables for halls, the three sensors(green,yellow,blue) and two for power ( red-black), what is the six cable for? Maybe for speed or temperature?

I have read the wiki for determining the hall/ phase color matching , even Lyen got some motor testing with the controller, but with one cable more not sure what to do. I guess that the "unknown" cable would be the white but it is just that a guess. I am a beginner, so don´t want to mesh the motor or controller before riding :mrgreen: . As I haven´t got a power supply were amps can be controller , what do you suggest? At least a 5 amp fuse on my battery for testing?
 
8fun_fan said:
...What I read is that usually there are 5 cables for halls, the three sensors(green,yellow,blue) and two for power ( red-black), what is the six cable for? Maybe for speed or temperature?

What's the advice from your motor supplier? Have you looked on the supplier's web site from an information pdf? Have you checked Bafang's site?

Savvas.
 
I have try but it doesn´t seems to be in bafang website. The current models are named different , but either in those this info is not available. :|
 
The following is my method for using non matching controllers, I haven't burnt anything up yet but YMMV
I have some experience with hooking up Bafang to generic controllers. For safety sake I use a 5-10 amp fuse (as you suggested) not sure if it is needed.
I also use a watt meter to test the amperage and I expect the no load full throttle amps to be about 1.5 2 Amps.

So If you do not have information on the correct wire combo, say from Lyen, then I would start by matching colors on phase and halls. and the black hall is likely ground and red pos, then match the other 3. If by color matching doesnt work, I switch two phase wires, like green and blue on the phase wires and on the halls simultaneously. The white wire I always leave disconnected. I do not know what it is for but i know I leave it disconnected, cut and Covered with electrical tape so it can not short anything.

PS : I found this document from LYEN
http://www.lyen.com/Manual/Color_Linings.htm

and this Old thread from ES with motor/controller combos known to work
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6241

good luck.
 
The extra wire is a Honeywell SS43F speed sensor. 6 magnets are used.
 
hi i try with lyen configuration switching yellow and blue in hall and phases and seems working fine. 8)

regarding the speed sensor, i guess the signal is linear with wheel velocity? i am planing to use arduino for throttle so i could use this for knowing speed? or as an input for a cycle analist ?

thanks for you answers!
 
I forgot to say, that info comes from a man on the internet. It's not my words. I don't know what the item is, but expected a hall sensor and some sort of alternating signal for the controller to fathom out. I really don't know. I have one here I could open, but it's near freezing in the garage. The white wire and speed sensor relationship is becoming common though. I would be very interested in seeing the signal produced myself. I wanted to use the hall pickup from a pas system for a speed sensor but couldn't get the info
 
The white wire is for optional devices. Sometimes it's not connected at all. Sometimes it's connected to speed sensor. More rarely, it can be connected to a temperature sensor. You can check it with a voltmeter when the other hall sensor wires are connected and powered. A speed sensor will pulse on and off with 5v when you turn the motor backwards. A temprature sensor will give a constant voltage between 0v and 5v. If it's not connected, you'll get 0v.

I have it at the back of my mind that your version of the motor has a speed sensor and temperature sensor piggy-backed for whatever reason. I don't know how they're wired or what the effect of that would be. My best guess is a pulsed voltage of less than 5v. I might be completely wrong about this. It could be another motor I'm thinking of.
 
Just waffling here, but..
If the speed sensor converted the pulses to a voltage, it would reference ground. You could then offer overheat protection in conjunction with speed limited controllers. A temp sensor in the motor could pull that speed signal up or down, so that when the motor cooked, it gave a faster speed signal out. One which the controller would see as faster than spec, and so would lower the power in an effort to reduce the speed. Cooling the motor.

I do recall a motor having both recently. I don't think this one has been to bits on this forum though. It's the motor you posted on pedelecs titled overclockers.

bmsb 'claim' there cute's and bafangs come with speed sensor inside. Controllers are starting to expect it or some shut down. The 09 bottle controllers come with lcd display and expect internal speed sensing or it won't work. I had to chop mine up to fit an external sensor. It would of run, but a big handlebar mounted speedo that don't actually work would be unbearable.
 
The most probably is that is a speed sensor. This motor was from a well known bike company selling some ebikes so to be "legal" it must have a speed sensor so it stops assistance when the speed limit is reach. I cannot check the signal cos I broke my multimeter in the process of setting wiring :roll:
 
I can't decide... your in the uk but not english right?

You don't actually need a speed sensor to ensure the bike won't break the speed limit. Instead many mess about having voltage kv and wheel sizes that work together. Making kits specific to wheel size, so you have to stock different kits for each wheel size you manufacture. Rather than use a speed sensor that can ensure you get maximum speed from one kit on all bikes.

I like them fitting both speed and temp and working them together to limit power when it gets warm. This way we can have a 250w motor getting 750w off the line, without fear of someone pointing it at a huge hill and killing it. Making the best use of the 250w motor possible. By monitoring what the maximum amount of power possible actually is.
 
8fun_fan said:
The most probably is that is a speed sensor. This motor was from a well known bike company selling some ebikes so to be "legal" it must have a speed sensor so it stops assistance when the speed limit is reach. I cannot check the signal cos I broke my multimeter in the process of setting wiring :roll:
The controller can use an external speed sensor to limit the speed.
 
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