bottom bracket bearings

[wesnewell]

My BB cage bearings are shot They are 9 ball 1/4". Actually the bearings look ok, but the cages are shot and make a lot of noise. Anyway, I found these, which look to be the same as what I had.
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/pyramid-bicycle-bottom-bracket-bearing-27-9-x-1-4-for-a-3-piece-english-crank
and these which appear to be the same;
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/1-4-9-ball-sugino-tange-retainer
and then these which I would hope would be smoother if they fit;
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/pyramid-bottom-bracket-bearing-375-11-x-1-4-3-piece-tange

Your thoughts on any of this.

 

[DAND214]

Looks like any of the 3 would fit. To get it real smooth need to replace all the pieces.

I replaced my brgs and cups but not the shaft. It's better but not perfect.

Dan

 

[wesnewell]

I assume I could replace the whole thing with a sealed BB, but I really don't know. I assume this would work for that, but then I'd need a special tool for it too.
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/shimano-bottom-bracket-un26-68-x-127-5mm

 

[Punx0r]

That's what I did - just match the spindle length and BB shell width. The cartridge bearing was very similar to the one in your link.

 

[Chalo]

My BB cage bearings are shot They are 9 ball 1/4". Actually the bearings look ok, but the cages are shot and make a lot of noise.

The parts on your bike are trash, or "full scale replicas" as one of my buddies likes to say, and should be replaced as they fail.

The up-to-date and easiest option is to use a cartridge bearing unit like the Shimano BB-UN26 (which my shop sells for $16 retail). Those do require a special spline tool for installation, just as the old loose ball kind require a special large wrench for the fixed cup and a hook spanner for the lockring. The new kind of BB is easier to install, insensitive to poorly machined frame surfaces, and unlikely to require any maintenance for the life of the unit.

 

[d8veh]

Don't waste your time replacing those bearings. The replacements won't last 5 minutes. A Shimano cartridge set is very cheap and will last for years. You only have to measure between the two ends of your spindle to get one the same length.

An even better solution is to upgrade your whole crank to a Shimano Deore M590 hollowtech one. They come with both cranks and the Hollowtech BB for about $60 (new), and are rock solid. No more creaking, clicking or wobbling cranks. No more cranks coming loose, and you don't need any special tools to fit them. You can also get them with different size chain-wheels and crank length. All mine are 175mm cranks and 48T chain-wheels. It's one of the best upgrades you can do to a bike.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-Deore-Mountain-Bike-MTB-Chainset-Crankset-M590-/201002858678?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item2eccb438b6

 

[wesnewell]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm going to a shop today to either get bearings or a cartridge. I put about 5K miles on the original crank pedaling 99% of the time in a little over a year. I got it apart with only a crank puller, although I ordered a a lock ring wrench that hasn't arrived yet. I'm wanting another bike that will take bigger tires with more clearance so I'm not sure I'm going to keep this one much longer. Just want to fix it before I replace it. From what I've read, 5K miles is fairly good for a BB. If I sell it I won't ask for more than $75 for it after putting the original new handle bars, seat, tires and wheels back on it, so I don't want to spend a lot to make it better. Just get it back to smooth without the noise.

 

[d8veh]

Remember what I said: The replacements won't last 'til the end of the week. Don't do it!

 

[wesnewell]

Already done it. Local shop had some 11 ball bearings and I used a set of them. I don't know why you think they'll fail in a week when the original 9 balls lasted over a year and 5K miles, And just the cages were shredded with them. The actual bearings were fine. And I think they installed too tight to begin with. I'll let you know if they fail, but don't think I'll have a problem with them. If I do, I'll switch to a cartridge maybe.

 

[friendly1uk]

I have only found one sealed unit that was any good, and it is stuck in a scrap frame with no visible means of removal. I ordered 3 off the net before visiting the bike shop to twiddle some. You can do a much better job yourself if you have adjustable one's. It is as if sealed one's come too tight and destroy themselves. 5K does not surprise me, or seem at all acceptable. Why should a good well serviced bearing fail at all.

I have not played with hollow tech, so that does sound quite interesting.

 

[Chalo]

Already done it. Local shop had some 11 ball bearings and I used a set of them. I don't know why you think they'll fail in a week when the original 9 balls lasted over a year and 5K miles, And just the cages were shredded with them. The actual bearings were fine.

The problem is that the first bearing surface to fail is usually the race on the spindle itself. If those are anything but smooth and mirror-like upon inspection, they have already spalled and will only deteriorate if reinstalled.

The balls are usually the last bearing surfaces to fail. The cone fails first, then the cups, then the balls.

 

[Punx0r]

On mine the cup wore enough to completely shear off when out on a ride. It had been cleaned/greased/adjusted two or three times. Just poor quality materials IMO. That would have been at around the 2500-3000 mile mark.

BTW, hammer + old screwdriver = C-spanner for the lock ring. It only needs a tap.

The tool for the sealed bearings is just one of those things you need to buy once. They're not expensive.