Calibike batt stats with CAv2.3

rafeh1 can you post pictures of the BMS on the packs you're selling and identify the balancing network components. That would help.
 
dnmun said:
nope, that picture is good enuff.

that guy wesnewell is always stalking me and every time i post up something he makes some insulting and snide remark because i called him out on how ignorant he is about how a BMS works and how he demands that the LVC for lipo has to be 3.65V because he says so. he knows nothing about lipo chemistry and just made up this idea that the LVC has to be 3.65V because he said so.

he is just a bully and totally ignorant of how a BMS works. he has never had a BMS to examine, does not know how they work and could not even tell you how they do what they do. so a picture would not make any difference because he would not know what he is looking at.

he gets away with stalking me here because the insiders who run this place do not enforce the rules against threatening violence or harassment when people do it to me but when i try to respond to protect myself then the insiders delete my posts because i am not one of them.

just the way this place works.

i see that Bestechpower has a new 13S lipo BMS i will add to my order to see how it works but not sure of the cost yet, it does have the metal heat sink on top:

http://www.bestechpower.com/481v13spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/PCM-D196.html


Wesnewell is not the only one looking at the pic. The pic is very bad and blurry. I'm just asking for a clearer pic so others may verify.
 
dnmun said:
you can open the BMS yourself and look. i posted a picture, there is no balancing network. the surface mount parts for the balancing network were not included when the placement machine was programmed.

Im sorry I dont mean to be rude but I think proof beyond I dont see something is required. If it did2 have balancing bms battery would get only the top slice would go to 0. Meaning battery would stop at 47v.
 
dnmun said:
nope, that picture is good enuff.

that guy wesnewell is always stalking me and every time i post up something he makes some insulting and snide remark because i called him out on how ignorant he is about how a BMS works and how he demands that the LVC for lipo has to be 3.65V because he says so. he knows nothing about lipo chemistry and just made up this idea that the LVC has to be 3.65V because he said so.

he is just a bully and totally ignorant of how a BMS works. he has never had a BMS to examine, does not know how they work and could not even tell you how they do what they do. so a picture would not make any difference because he would not know what he is looking at.

he gets away with stalking me here because the insiders who run this place do not enforce the rules against threatening violence or harassment when people do it to me but when i try to respond to protect myself then the insiders delete my posts because i am not one of them.

just the way this place works.

i see that Bestechpower has a new 13S lipo BMS i will add to my order to see how it works but not sure of the cost yet, it does have the metal heat sink on top:

http://www.bestechpower.com/481v13spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/PCM-D196.html
So you think that picture is good enough huh. If that's the quality of your work, I think I'll pass.
I'm not stalking you. You just make so many screw ups and wild assumptions it would be comical if it didn't affect so many people. You didn't call me out on anything. You just made more of your erroneous claims. You can keep saying I don't know how a bms works and some people may believe you. i have never threatened you with violence. That's just more of your paranoia. To be honest, I couldn't care lees about you. I don't know what brought your tirade on this time. if it was just my comment about your blurry picture, you've got something wrong with you. Why do you think I'm an insider? I don't personally know any of the people on ES. I'm not here to sell anything either. BTW, in case you didn't know, there are many ways for a bms to work. Depends on how it was designed to work. There is no set standard. Anything that controls just one function on a battery system could be called a bms. I'm been around a long time and may not be here much longer, but when I turn senile I sure won't look to you to solve the problem. For those that want to know some of my electronic credentials just google 'wes newell atari', yes, that's my real name.
 
Cool it guys. I'd much prefer the response to be a better picture rather than renew the lvc voltage argument again on this thread. Opinions vary on what's a good lvc.

The picture is too blurry to see much for sure. But even I can see enough to see the balancing part of the bms does seem to be missing.

That's the top of charge stuff I don't see either. not LVC. I will also assume the cell level lvc works.
 
Here is a pic of my old bms. Old bms burnt due to a short caused by me(my fault)
New bms that Rafe sent is identical that is installed now

You'll notice that my bms differs from Dnmun's bms
 

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yes, that is totally different from mine and it does have the balancing network. also none of the red hand wiring on the BMS either so if this is what he is selling then that BMS will balance the pack and prevent overcharging. thanks for posting that, i was gonna ask you if rafe did not post up his.

i wonder where this calibike battery came from that i have. yours is 14S also and mine is 13S outa 16S capable pcm.

also, that BMS can be repaired. we can walk you through how to diagnose and fix it if you wanna.
 
Balancing circuits don't have to be made from discreet components. I had custom IC's made over 30 years ago, so it's impossible to tell from a picture what's happening. Now if you want to trace the circuit out and draw up a discreet circuit diagram, then that would tell. The thing is, if it has custom chips, there's no way of making a discreet drawing from just looking at the board. I wouldn't jump to conclusions just from looking at a board and the components on it. Just because you don't see what you think should be there doesn't mean it wasn't implemented in a different way. And i really find it hard to believe that someone would put out a bms that didn't function the way it was design to. They are just too simple for a mistake like that.
https://www.google.com/search?client=ubuntu&channel=fs&q=cell+balancing+ic&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
 
I'm only managing 11ah out of my cali pack when riding, this is annoying to know people are getting more out of this pack.

I tried making a bulb discharger but they almost caught on fire.
 
Electric Junk said:
I'm only managing 11ah out of my cali pack when riding, this is annoying to know people are getting more out of this pack.

I tried making a bulb discharger but they almost caught on fire.

How are you getting your results? The best way is a CA or a wattmeter
 
Electric I would leave it on the charger for some time for a chang to fill up and balance. It would be better if short discharge and very long charge time. Testing for lvc dosn't help to balance. Can drive it to unbalance.
 
Electric Junk said:
I'm only managing 11ah out of my cali pack when riding, this is annoying to know people are getting more out of this pack.

I tried making a bulb discharger but they almost caught on fire.

the cali pack will go down to 37v. most people have lvc shutoff in controller that stops at 41v. please lover the lvc on your controller to get 15ah
rafe
 
I'm with Wesnewell why would someone build a bms without a balance circuit ? Plus I can't type how would I read a bms board. I would put an extra set of sense wires, like my old ping and check with a cellog. Cuz that's the way I like it.
 
I like that setup too. If you have some plugs on the pack, you can watch the charger and bms balance the battery with a cellog or similar device.

Then you will will see the high cells lowering when the balancer works. That's how you know it's working. As I've said before, bms + monitor like you have no bms is the best possible setup.

Any tech that's trying to sort out problems with a battery returned to the shop would love this feature. It's like a car without a code reader plug, to have to probe with voltmeters the way it is now.
 
rafeh1 said:
Electric Junk said:
I'm only managing 11ah out of my cali pack when riding, this is annoying to know people are getting more out of this pack.

I tried making a bulb discharger but they almost caught on fire.

the cali pack will go down to 37v. most people have lvc shutoff in controller that stops at 41v. please lover the lvc on your controller to get 15ah
rafe


My pack started cutting out at 45v....i can't get a full capacity test because my battery keeps cutting out and the meter keeps wattsup keeps resetting...something is wrong with my pack. I made it 28 miles before it started cutting out @ 46v, and any heavy throttle over 10 amps would cut out the battery...towards the end of my ride the vlow was hitting 38v under throttle, unfortunately my chain got caught under the chainring so i couldn't finish the last bit.

I don't have a system or means to charge it to 36v, but based on this info i'm pretty sure there is a dead cell in this pack

What would cause the BMS to cut out at 46v? It does charge to the full 54.8v
 
I think Rafe may be getting a bad rap here. I know E.S. tends to be tuff. But let's give the guy time for a breath. I like that he hear for us.
 
999zip999 said:
What is your amp draw ? Do you have a C.A. ?

yeah, 18 on my gng and 22 for my bbs02... This ride for instance was 31 miles @ 15mph average road/rail trail with me giving 25% effort.

When it started cutting off towards the end the battery cut off power at 46volts, resetting my watts up, then powered back on a few seconds later, then would stay on as long as i kept the amps low.

When it first happened i thought maybe it overheated but when i opened the box it was just warm

The battery was cutting off while it wasn't hitting the LVC on either the system or battery.

I'm guessing maybe there is a bad cell and the bms is tripping.
 
999zip999 said:
I'm with Wesnewell why would someone build a bms without a balance circuit ? Plus I can't type how would I read a bms board. I would put an extra set of sense wires, like my old ping and check with a cellog. Cuz that's the way I like it.

re cell balancing older style bms uses balancing resistors on bms while newer BMS is moving to switched capacitor cell balancing.

bms cell balancing 2 methods (resistive and capacitive see schematic how does one upload a pic?)

"The switched capacitor balancing system can be operated continuously without supervisory control, so it is relatively low cost and easy to implement. Cells with low voltage can be brought up and cells with high voltage can be reduced." pg 213
BATTERY SYSTEMS ENGINEERING Christopher D. Rahn and Chao-Yang Wang The Pennsylvania State University, USA
A John Wiley & Sons, Ltd., Publication

photo.php

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154713829680019&set=gm.703025796433158&type=1
 
Electric Junk said:
rafeh1 said:
Electric Junk said:
I'm only managing 11ah out of my cali pack when riding, this is annoying to know people are getting more out of this pack.

I tried making a bulb discharger but they almost caught on fire.

the cali pack will go down to 37v. most people have lvc shutoff in controller that stops at 41v. please lover the lvc on your controller to get 15ah
rafe


My pack started cutting out at 45v....i can't get a full capacity test because my battery keeps cutting out and the meter keeps wattsup keeps resetting...something is wrong with my pack. I made it 28 miles before it started cutting out @ 46v, and any heavy throttle over 10 amps would cut out the battery...towards the end of my ride the vlow was hitting 38v under throttle, unfortunately my chain got caught under the chainring so i couldn't finish the last bit.

I don't have a system or means to charge it to 36v, but based on this info i'm pretty sure there is a dead cell in this pack

What would cause the BMS to cut out at 46v? It does charge to the full 54.8v

One of the issues i am seeing with calibike bms is that BMS is designed to put out 30a max continuously. But some people's controller motor combination are pulling 35 to 40 causing premature bms failure or weakening a slice. I am now recommending that every one limit their controller to 30a and use 40A breaker
like below.
$_12.JPG

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281423062441?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
Electric Junk said:
999zip999 said:
What is your amp draw ? Do you have a C.A. ?

yeah, 18 on my gng and 22 for my bbs02... This ride for instance was 31 miles @ 15mph average road/rail trail with me giving 25% effort.

When it started cutting off towards the end the battery cut off power at 46volts, resetting my watts up, then powered back on a few seconds later, then would stay on as long as i kept the amps low.

When it first happened i thought maybe it overheated but when i opened the box it was just warm

The battery was cutting off while it wasn't hitting the LVC on either the system or battery.

I'm guessing maybe there is a bad cell and the bms is tripping.

the BMS is cutting out for LVC because one of the channels drops below the LVC under load. by reducing the load the delta V is small so the LVC is not triggered until that cell drains down some more and then it will cut out under any load.
 
I agree, the battery is not really ideal for a 40 amps controller.

Those pulling that much need a larger capacity pack IMO. ( or higher c rate cells) It's going to be hard on both the bms and the cells if you are running a 40 amps, and actually pulling 40 amps a lot.

If you are cutting out early, I'd look into the pack balancing first before blaming Rafe. Maybe you are just so out of balance that it needs a week or more on the charger for the bms to fully balance. Bms's take a long time to balance a pack that is really whacked.

Or, maybe harsh use found a weak cell. It usually will if you have one in the pack. This risk, the risk of one single weak cell in your pack getting damaged is why I have been, and always will be so conservative about what amps rates I recommend for packs that are so hard to repair if a weak cell gets in there. Far better to run a bit conservative and have it last, than romp on it and cook off a weak cell in the first months of use.

It's still definitely an option for those that can't afford a more expensive pack, don't want to order from china, etc. If you don't like the bms it comes with, it's not hard to afford a different one. Just don't go thinking it will like 40 amps unless you get a large one.
 
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