Can someone reccomend me a cheap front fork?

[MrDude_1]

Heres where I am at.
I have a cheap genesis v2100 that I commute with. With the additional speed I see as an ebike, I had to upgrade the front brake. (203mm now)
With stronger braking, I have worn the plastic bushings down in the fork to the point that I need a new fork.
The main thing to me is that it have strong enough bushings that I can brake. Ideally I can stiffen it too, but thats not required.
Im not looking for offroad performance.. or really any performance. The only reason it is not a rigid is that extra cushion if I hit an unseen pothole at speed.

So I ordered a "MOTORIZED BICYCLE TRIPLE TREE 26" BIKE BICYCLE 1 1/8" threadless w/Disc Tab" off ebay. no name, looked like pitbike lowers. auction here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/282107633890?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I figured it would be fine, but after putting it on the bike lastnight I held the brakes, and it rocked back and forth more than my worn walmart fork.

I am looking for something in the $150 or less range for a fork.. less is much better, but I just want something I can hit the brakes on without worry.

Anyone have any recommendations? I like the idea of a dual crown setup, but keep in mind I am not looking for a expensive downhill fork. $150 is outrageously expensive already to me.

 

[MadRhino]

Look on Pinkbike. End of season, you can bargain pretty low.

Check for forks that are short travel and low maintenance

Example: A Marzz dirt jumper is the kind of fork you should look for
http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2080651/

 

[skeetab5780]

That's a nice fork, too bad the steerer is cut so shorty. He is close to me too

 

[ScooterMan101]

Your only option at that price point is to do what i often do,
Search Craigslist.

Search for a fork that was top of the line or near top of the line a couple of years ago, but which is outdated now

Example
A Downhill/All Mountain Fork that has quick release 9mm drop outs ( many riders are now riding through axle forks )

A Downhill/All Mountain Fork that has at least 34 mm stantions , 36 even better.

Also you probably have straight 1 1/8 steerer tube top and bottom which is outdated now,

The only challenge is to get one that was not ridden much, and where someone is parting out their bike,

I am looking for a afforadable / to me , fork right now myself, and all the bike shop people and others I know in the industry all say the same thing

Fox or Rockshox , then X-Fusion and Marzocchi .

There are older versions of the Rockshox Pike in 26 inch, non tapered, 9mm dropouts. ( the Rockshox Pike is the coveted fork for most every one I talk to who works in a bike shop )
and look on youtube how to service the fork you want/get.

 

[E-geezer]

You're going to have a tough time finding a Pike with a QR, they are all through axles AFAIK.

Unless you want to change the head angle significantly, I'd look for a used XC race fork since they will be short travel and with air springs can be tuned to your liking. The usual suspects would apply Fox/Rockshox etc. 26" forks are being dumped, so you should be able to get a great deal.

 

[MrDude_1]

Thanks for the link to pinkbike. I heard of the site years ago, but never used it.

I would prefer to not replace my hub with a through axle.
I dont even have a quick release right now.. its just a "normal" axle nut on each side, complete with the hooked washer. Remember this was a walmart bike. lol.

The problem with searching craigslist locally, is that there are ZERO hills here. I am hours away from any mountains, and no where nearby is even hilly.. so there are zero downhill forks for sale used locally.

Are any of the "rockshox" listed on ebay good? I assumed they were all knockoffs, but I was reading this morning that they actually make them in china now, and the cheap ones are genuine, but not intended for the US market.

 

[MrDude_1]

also, yes, I have a 1 1/8" straight steering stem...


so I think these are my requirements:

1/18" straight stem
"normal" non-through axle
disc brake tab (not the radial mounts some of these seem to have, I dont know the names of the terms)
non-plastic bushings??


From reading, before shopping used, I think I need to measure the stem length I require from the bottom of the lower bearing race to the top of my stem, so I know if a pre-cut used one will fit.
Is there anything else I need to watch out for?

 

[ScooterMan101]

The best thing to watch for is the typical buyer that intends to build up a bike, or replace a fork but never got around to doing so,
now it is a few years , even 5 years or more that the fork has been sitting in the closet or garage, they will most all be the
26 inch
straight steerer
quick release ( your axle nuts will work on a quick release fork , just not the newer through axle forks )
and, should , be highly discounted from current prices.

Here is an example of what to look for, in this ad I have seen the seller repost this ad for over 4 months now,
and he still has not dropped the price and so for months it has not sold , someday he will face reality, for now , it is just an example of what is available. for when something in your area comes up like this at
a more reasonable price. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bop/5857191397.html

There are the older 6+ years old and older Rockshox Pike forks , they were 26 inch back then and quick release and straight steerer tube.
However there are more Fox 34 and Fox 36 ones available. Be careful of the Marzocchi's , there were some that were full of problems, to find out
go to as many bike shops and ask which forks needed the most service and were less reliable .

and
you are better off to get a fork that has never had the steerer tube cut, that way you can cut it tall, and cut down from there to your liking
and even more important, if the steerer has never been cut, you can be 98% or more sure it has never been used.
Even if a little more money, that is a better deal,
look up / research at your local bike shop the cost for servicing a suspension fork and you will most likely want to buy some fork that has never been used,
or a new take off from a new bike that was cut and installed but not ridden/used.

 

[MrDude_1]

The best thing to watch for is the typical buyer that intends to build up a bike, or replace a fork but never got around to doing so,
now it is a few years , even 5 years or more that the fork has been sitting in the closet or garage, they will most all be the
26 inch
straight steerer
quick release ( your axle nuts will work on a quick release fork , just not the newer through axle forks )
and, should , be highly discounted from current prices.

Here is an example of what to look for, in this ad I have seen the seller repost this ad for over 4 months now,
and he still has not dropped the price and so for months it has not sold , someday he will face reality, for now , it is just an example of what is available. for when something in your area comes up like this at
a more reasonable price. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bop/5857191397.html

There are the older 6+ years old and older Rockshox Pike forks , they were 26 inch back then and quick release and straight steerer tube.
However there are more Fox 34 and Fox 36 ones available. Be careful of the Marzocchi's , there were some that were full of problems, to find out
go to as many bike shops and ask which forks needed the most service and were less reliable .

and
you are better off to get a fork that has never had the steerer tube cut, that way you can cut it tall, and cut down from there to your liking
and even more important, if the steerer has never been cut, you can be 98% or more sure it has never been used.
Even if a little more money, that is a better deal,
look up / research at your local bike shop the cost for servicing a suspension fork and you will most likely want to buy some fork that has never been used,
or a new take off from a new bike that was cut and installed but not ridden/used.

when you say "be careful of Marzocchi"... should I be weary of an offer like this? https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=84273
not trying to put down the guys fork.. its just that I know little to NOTHING about bike forks. On motorcycles I have alot more experience but none of it transfers over to this. I think thats also why I prefer dual crown forks when just looking at stuff. I probably dont need them, but im used to them.

btw I know that fork I linked to is a through axle, but it looks like I can get a hub here for $38. If I redo my front wheel with it, I can just have the local shop do the final tune on it for $20 and only be slightly over budget. :lol:
From what I am seeing I need a 20mm through axle hub anyway, to run modern front forks. These things seem crazy to me now.. no wonder "real" bikes get so expensive... :lol:

Will I need anything else besides this hub? I am assuming I can reuse my spokes because that hub should be close to the same diameter.. right?
also do I need to buy separate wheel spacers for the 20mm? or is there a standard width and that hub comes with it?

 

[MrDude_1]

What about the el cheapo newer Zoom fork that is NOT a downhill fork, though it looks like one? For street riding only, not offroad, less than $100.00?

At least an upgrade over the stock walmart fork, which was at least close to good enough?

At least on e-bike vendor was using these, for street only, and thought they were OK. He stopped because of complaints of many bike snobs who had never used the fork in question.

Compared to a $500 fork it sucks, sure, but compared to the crap that came on the bike originally is the more important comparison, IMO.

Never tried one or seen it live, I just ain't buying no $500 fork, used or otherwise.

That sounds like what I am asking for.. but where are they?

 

[motomech]

This is maybe not what you want to hear, but I would ditch the Wally World bike and shop craigslist for a decent used mountain bike.
Used mountain bikes are the best deals in Ebiking. So many people buy a mountain bike and when they see how much work it is, they park it.
Let me give you an example. I just bought this used 2007 GT Idrive 4 4.0 for $350. After the owner gave up on mountain biking, it sat in his garage for 7 years until he decided he was going to commute to work on it. He had a shop install nice Forte Gotham flat resistant tires and tubes and he rode it to work for a week and decided he didn't like that either;



He had on CL for a while @ $400 and no bites(Nobody seems interested in 26" wheel MTB's anymore)and when I offered him $350, he jumped at it. Except for some scuffing from being pushed around the garage, it's like band new!
The original sticker price was around $1100, as it was GT's entry level offering and the suspension lacks much adjustment. But it's quality all the way. Made in Taiwan, the Fox shock and Suntour CSR forks offer 4" of air-adjustable travel and it has strong Tektro mechanical disc brakes.
Frankly, I could beat this bike to a pulp off-road, but for the street, these components are awesome.
The welds and dark blue metalic paint are just beautiful, like is was made in Japan.
Bottom line is, any mid-quality used MTB in good cond. is way better than even a more expensive "budget" bike.
This but one example, other marks I would look for are Trek and Giant. There are lot's of deals like this if one is willing to look.

http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2007&brand=GT&model=idrive+4++4.0+

 

[nutnspecial]

^^ not a bad deal.

Dude, if you are just going with a fork, my advice is go with a 'used good condition' DH 2crown marz all day over a new 'zoom'.

I have never had a bushing/rocking problem on my 100mm coil suntour or 120mm air (forget the name) of similar price (about 100$). I'm doing stoppies with my new hydros on the 120mm now and still don't notice any issues, but I think the 100mm suntours would be more stout overall. If only wanting to spend 100 for a new 9mm axle fork, I'd recommend.

Try to stay fairly close/similar for travel unless you wanna slack out the steer angle of the genesis. And sometimes it's more important to go by measurement from bottom crown/race to axle, as travel isn't always directly related to ride height changes, esp comparing single and double crown forks.

 

[2old]

You should be able to locate a new Rock Shox XC30 within your price range. I rode one offroad on a bike that was being tested and it was excellent with decent damping and stiffness. Only problem might be (with all forks) tightening the nuts and avoiding the "lawyer lips".

 

[docw009]

Did you also replace the complete headset? I don't have much experience with forks, but I have swapped out two to get the disk brake brackets, and I installed new headsets, including the cups, and crown races, because I thought I might get wobble with the old parts.

 

[MrDude_1]

Dude, if you are just going with a fork, my advice is go with a 'used good condition' DH 2crown marz all day over a new 'zoom'.

I have never had a bushing/rocking problem on my 100mm coil suntour or 120mm air (forget the name) of similar price (about 100$). I'm doing stoppies with my new hydros on the 120mm now and still don't notice any issues, but I think the 100mm suntours would be more stout overall. If only wanting to spend 100 for a new 9mm axle fork, I'd recommend.

Try to stay fairly close/similar for travel unless you wanna slack out the steer angle of the genesis. And sometimes it's more important to go by measurement from bottom crown/race to axle, as travel isn't always directly related to ride height changes, esp comparing single and double crown forks.

I think I'll take that advice. I just told him I'll take his fork.
As far as bushings and brakes go.. I never had a problem, even with my hydraulic setup.. until I put the 203mm rotor on. HUGE improvement in high speed braking, but it deformed my fork bushings after only 100 miles of suburban riding.

as far as the steering angle goes... with dual crown I can always lower it to play with ride height and steering angle, but these forks always seem to have tons of trail anyway... The larger problem on my bike would be the rear shock anyway. since its undersprung, I have the preload jacked to hell. lol handling isnt its strong point. its just a A to B commuter that can filter to the front of intersections legally.

 

[MrDude_1]

Did you also replace the complete headset? I don't have much experience with forks, but I have swapped out two to get the disk brake brackets, and I installed new headsets, including the cups, and crown races, because I thought I might get wobble with the old parts.

everything but the star nut. I didnt know it wasnt included, so I ended up reusing the old one... something everyone will tell me is absolutely stupid, but really doesnt matter on a dual crown fork. lol

 

[MrDude_1]

This is maybe not what you want to hear, but I would ditch the Wally World bike and shop craigslist for a decent used mountain bike.

I already have the pinnacle of mountain bike design... the exact Gary Fisher I lusted over in high school but couldnt afford then.

seriously though, I know the wally world bike is "crap" compared to the latest stuff. but its also solid gold compared to everything from the 1980s or earlier... so its all about perspective. Remember I dont need a mountain bike. I have no hills. I dont even want suspension... but I need it for the occasional pot hole hit. Its a practical commuter bike. I have new brakes on it. No shifters. (set in 1 gear with a tensioner arm) really all thats wally world is the frame and front wheel. lol

 

[ScooterMan101]

Instead of building up a 20mm hub/wheel, you could buy a 15 mm through axle wheel and buy the adapters
that will let you use a 15mm Hub/wheel on a 20 mm axle front fork.

Like this ... http://www.jensonusa.com/Azonic-Outlaw-Front-Hub-Inserts

You should call Jenson's to find out which ones you need, since they make 2 different ones tell them you have a 20 mm through axle fork and want to buy/use a 15 mm through axle wheel.

There should be a closeout price on a 15 mm through axle wheel already build up somewhere on the internet , it is much harder to find a new 20 mm through axle wheel.

 

[dogman dan]

Just keep on hunting. It may be that you have to buy a fairly hard used complete bike to get that fork.

Very hard to find what you want new, but look at chain reaction cycles. They might still have some new old stock forks with 9mm QR, and straight 1 1/8 headset. Getting harder even, to find through axle forks new, that have straight 1 1/8th headset. But if you find one like that, a good front wheel for it will not be wasted money. Do expect to end up spending a lot for anything new.

The other options for new forks are for shit bikes. You have that now, and its shit.

But a fairly old rockshocks off an MTB that was only $500 back in 2005 may be only a hundred or so for the whole bike now. And still have a good fork on it. Many cases, a bike sits in the yard till it's worth not much, but still has some great parts on it. I always look for the sun faded on one side, which usually means it was not missed much by the guy it was stolen from.

I still haunt the flea, looking for half a bike. Not WM shit, but half a good bike. I usually pay no more than 20 bucks for half a bike. You can't build a good frankenbike out of shit frames. You need a good cromoly frame to start from.

 

[MadRhino]

20mm to QR adapters are easy to find, I think I have 2 or 3 in the junk here. Then next time you lace a wheel, you buy a good 20mm DH hub that is gonna last a lifetime (36h to use the same rims fr and rr).

 

[dogman dan]

Cool. but anything new is getting harder to just find the non tapered headset.

That adapter will really open up the possibilities for used forks though. Definitely worth a new hub, or used but good wheel to upgrade to a real fork, one that costs more than your whole bike. It WILL be worth the $, if you have the $.

What you really want on the cheap might be more like a thrashed rock shocks dart. That was a hundred buck fork in its day, found on lots of cheaper bikes, but more expensive than bikes that come with a zoom pogo stick. It will have only a pre load adjustment, not rebound. Even with all the oil blown out of one, it's a better pogo stick than a zoom.

Pay at the very very most, fifty bucks for a fork like that.