Catrike 700-E build

It sounds like your new throttle gives you finer control or something? Not really sure what you mean about being on the throttle all the time.

I'm quite curious what you are going to change or add to the clutch, looking forward to seeing that. Is there any place where you list all the stuff that you are currently selling? I don't think I've seen anything like that, and by now, the list must be pretty long.

Katou
 
Hey Guys,

Sorry I did not respond sooner.

The clutch I am using is McMaster part number 6524K18 "Friction Torque Limiter".

I do no modifications to it what-so-ever. However, I do custom make the pulley or sprocket used with the clutch.

It cost me $67.78 plus shipping. I will be stocking them. A large 5mm pitch custom machined aluminum pulley for the clutch will be $45. I will probably mark the clutch up to $80 to make it worth my while to stock. The main pulley costs me $40 to have made. So, if someone is buying a drive unit, I would already be paying for the custom pulley anyway. Therefore, the drive unit will increase in cost $80 to $90 with the clutch rather than without.

I am confident this clutch will work better for limiting torque than a current limiter mainly because you are not forcing the controller to stay in the high phaze current stage.

Oh, what I mean by being on the throttle more is, before I had the clutch, I had to be careful not to skip the belt. With the clutch, there are no belt skip worries at all. So, I can be lazy with the throttle and just hit it and let the clutch do the modulation work, rather than me. :)

Matt
 
love to see some pics of it on the trike and maybe a video

What about one for the trivelo project ?
 
so does it kind of feel/sound like a cvt in a honda/prius then matt? It sure does seem like a good way of limiting the amount of KW the motors will produce hence extending life of alot more than just belts :wink:

Do they make a heavier version for those that want it on twin 3220 setups so that there is next to zero problems with controllers and maybe making them more "rideable" or tuneable to conditions. How long would you expect the friction plates to last, and how much to replace?

Cheers
Rodger
 
If you check the McMaster page he cited, you will see that they have larger versions good to 400 ft*lbs. That's the largest I saw, but perhaps there are bigger elsewhere.

What foot*pounds figure are you designing for?

Katou
 
The ft pounds depends on the motor and the overall gearing used. The clutch I used was in the mid range (torque wise). However, you can change the Belleville springs for more or less tension.

I have been riding and riding and riding and the clutch is fantastic! I am thrilled with this thing. It makes the bike a whole lot more fun to ride, not having to worry about anything. :)

Matt
 
Question for you guys;

What direction should I take this Catrike? What I mean is, should I push for better and better efficiency? Should I move toward greater technological advancement (such as GPS, a full center console with lots of goodies, etc)? Should I leave it as-is and just ride it? I want to know what you guys are looking for in RC drives. So, I can use this trike as the development platform.

Give you your feedback. This trike is a development vehicle and, as such, I want to use it in the most useful and productive way.

Matt
 
What a fun post! Here's my Canadian 2 cents.

I respect your drive to R&D, so I'll think hard here. (gears gnashing)

I would like to see your drive incorporate different speeds somehow. Perhaps a mid-drive using the torque limiting clutch to protect the internal hub?

I'd want a hill-climber gear (like off-road, can't run up it kind of hill) and top speed around 35 mph max. If you did that, I think I would finally break down and just buy one instead of trying to build one myself. It would be officially too much for my poor little monkey brain.

Other worthy goals:
-lower price
(with the same quality, not low qual, low cost)

-higher efficiency drives for lower power motors

-smaller drives
(wattage and physical size)

-figure out how to do regen with RC motors
(for braking)

-traction control to take advantage of the higher power drives
(I have no idea how you would do this, mechanically or electronically)

-improve reliability
(not that it's bad, but prove that it's phenomenal, say 1000 mile increments?)

-make a planetary system work with the RC motors
(super small drive size)

That's the best that I can come up with for no-holds-barred suggestions, hope they were entertaining at least.

Katou
 
quieter and more affordable ... closer to the hub motors
 
how about a light weight, removable, all weather cover (gore-tex) ? :roll:
 
recumpence said:
Question for you guys;

What direction should I take this Catrike? What I mean is, should I push for better and better efficiency? Should I move toward greater technological advancement (such as GPS, a full center console with lots of goodies, etc)? Should I leave it as-is and just ride it? I want to know what you guys are looking for in RC drives. So, I can use this trike as the development platform.

Give you your feedback. This trike is a development vehicle and, as such, I want to use it in the most useful and productive way.

Matt
Click to expand...


Awesome work Matt.

Efficiency is neat, but a full console would be so cool, especially if it were small enough to fit the handlebars of us upright bike guys. I ove my CA, but I know I would love an even more info dash. Something like a PDA size with a home screen that I can set to have the info I want in a size that I want
 
+1 for gears or trying an internally geared hub with the clutch to see how it holds up, especially the sram dd. If the sram could be used with an RC drive reliably, it would solve several peoples wants. Would also be good for very hilly areas, to get the best efficiency and reduce stress on the motor.

With your work, we almost have the ultimate in ebike drives.

Clay
 
I'll second the rc to SRAM DD on a 1000-1500 watt system

Maybe the seat a little higher so getting in out a little easier
 
I second the higher seat idea. I normally don't check the non-hub area but seeing your machining is truly awe inspiring. Maybe a build for us older fogies who need higher trikes and better visibility but really crave the fine engineering that you provide. I am simply amazed by your work quality!
otherDoc
 
forget the interstate

we need an urban car replacement 30mph

similar to this ...http://www.evalbum.com/2311

but even a single rider would do
 
Another idea Matt, is an on board charger for the large amount of lipo. If you could plug it in anywhere, that would complete the "anyone can us it" goal you had with the slipper clutch.

Clay
 
Hey Guys,

On a side note, I am over 300 miles on this trike without any problems. :)

It just keeps running. I like this trike even more than my big yellow monster!

Matt
 
Wow, I missed this thread entirely (need to get my head out the BMS stuff more often...). This is a great ride, indeed. :)

What I think would be perfect for this, to get a bit more speed, is to add a delta-wye switcher. Start off in the normal wye mode, and then switch to dletal once you hit 20 MPH, or so. This should get you up to 35-40 MPH, I think, and wouldn't require any mechanical changes.

Also, I love the battery boxes. Do you have some pics of them alone, or are they shown in another thread somewhere? Waht are the inside dimensions?

-- Gary
 
Hey Gary,

I returned your PM. We can talk. :)

Delta/Wye would be AWESOME! I have no problem bringing all wires outside the can for that. I would love to try it.

I just got back from a 4.4 mile ride. I did no pedalling at all (other than pedalling first) and averaged 21.3mph according to my cycle computer. I did not nurse it at all. I slipped the clutch at full throttle and just plain ole rode the thing like I stole it. My efficiency was 15.27 wh per mile!

I love this thing!

Matt
 
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