Hi everyone, I've got an eZee electric kit (purchased from ebikes.ca) installed on my bike and the summer got off to a great start until I started having trouble with the system. The battery is a 48 volt 10Ah Lithium Manganese battery (http://ebikes.ca/store/photos/B4810LiM-EZ_Kit.jpg). What keeps happening is that while riding something happens where the system shuts off and I have to disconnect/reconnect the battery to get it working but then it will shut off again shortly after. It seems like it shuts off when I apply the throttle. I don't know much about this stuff but after a bit of research it seems like something keeps tripping the BMS circuit in the battery and shutting it off. I've exchanged the battery twice now but keep having the same problem so I'm wondering if there's an issue with the controller that keeps tripping the BMS. Any help or advice would be very much appreciated.
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cause of BMS problems with battery?
- Thread starter davemac2
- Start date
DAND214
10 MW
How long before the system shuts down? How long before the problem started and now.
Have you checked the voltage right after it shut down?
If you have tried 3 differant packs, it sounds like the system is drawing too much power and tripping the BMS.
Do the wires get hot from battery to controller or from the hub to the controller?
Do you have a CA on the bike? It can tell you a lot about your system. Like amp draw and battery voltage while riding. It's an almost must on an Ebike.
Dan
Have you checked the voltage right after it shut down?
If you have tried 3 differant packs, it sounds like the system is drawing too much power and tripping the BMS.
Do the wires get hot from battery to controller or from the hub to the controller?
Do you have a CA on the bike? It can tell you a lot about your system. Like amp draw and battery voltage while riding. It's an almost must on an Ebike.
Dan
Rassy
1 MW
All of what Dan said. You are probably simply drawing too many amps from the battery and the BMS shuts down to protect the battery.
A CA is nice, but there are very simple and fairly inexpensive watt meters that will show how many amps you are pulling as you ride.
You can test this be taking a ride where you can be real gentle on the throttle, pedal a little before hitting the throttle, etc. If it works fine under these circumstances but still cuts out when trying to go up a hill or even just accelerating hard, it is probably the BMS protecting the battery. You may just need a battery with either a higher C rating or a battery with a higher AH rating.
If you are happy with the system and battery size in general, a CA may be able to limit the amps your controller draws from the battery. I think this only works with certain controllers, so you would have to check that out before getting a CA.
Good luck getting it sorted out.
A CA is nice, but there are very simple and fairly inexpensive watt meters that will show how many amps you are pulling as you ride.
You can test this be taking a ride where you can be real gentle on the throttle, pedal a little before hitting the throttle, etc. If it works fine under these circumstances but still cuts out when trying to go up a hill or even just accelerating hard, it is probably the BMS protecting the battery. You may just need a battery with either a higher C rating or a battery with a higher AH rating.
If you are happy with the system and battery size in general, a CA may be able to limit the amps your controller draws from the battery. I think this only works with certain controllers, so you would have to check that out before getting a CA.
Good luck getting it sorted out.
This morning it was working fine for about a block ( 2 minutes) and then it shut down. The wires do not get hot and I don't have a CA installed. Tonight I'll check the voltage after it shuts down and let you know.
So how do you fix it if the problem is that the controller is drawing too much power, buy a new battery with less voltage?
thanks for your replies.
So how do you fix it if the problem is that the controller is drawing too much power, buy a new battery with less voltage?
thanks for your replies.
Rassy
1 MW
I think there were several solutions already mentioned, such as limit the draw from the battery using a CA, get a larger capacity battery, either C rate or AH rating, etc.
You could also get a controller that limits the amperage drawn from the battery.
But, in all cases, you really need to know what is happening and your desired results, before you start throwing money at it. Even though I use just a 48V 10AH Ping battery, most consider that too light for any real performance. If you drop to a lower voltage, you will need even more amps to get the same performance.
EDIT: Also, your controller may not work with a lower voltage battery.
You could also get a controller that limits the amperage drawn from the battery.
But, in all cases, you really need to know what is happening and your desired results, before you start throwing money at it. Even though I use just a 48V 10AH Ping battery, most consider that too light for any real performance. If you drop to a lower voltage, you will need even more amps to get the same performance.
EDIT: Also, your controller may not work with a lower voltage battery.
DAND214
10 MW
I take you bought it from Justin. I'm sure if you contact them about your problem that they have an answer. Being their system they have had this happen.
How old is the setup? Or should I ask, how old is the last battery? If you evchanged 3 differant packs, either there is a problem with that battery they offer (which I dought) or the controller has a problem drawing too many amps and tripping the BMS.
Check the voltage as soon as the battery trips, the controller should run on 36v I would think and if it's shutting down, the battery has a problem.
After rereading your post, I think the battery has a problem again. Sounds like you need a bigger Ah pack.
Dan
How old is the setup? Or should I ask, how old is the last battery? If you evchanged 3 differant packs, either there is a problem with that battery they offer (which I dought) or the controller has a problem drawing too many amps and tripping the BMS.
Check the voltage as soon as the battery trips, the controller should run on 36v I would think and if it's shutting down, the battery has a problem.
After rereading your post, I think the battery has a problem again. Sounds like you need a bigger Ah pack.
Dan
Yes I got it from Justin at ebikes, they've been a great help and very patient with me.
Something else that occurred to me is that I recently replaced the Anderson connectors on the controller. The connectors I got are 30 amp, could that potentially cause any problems?
The battery that I just got is brand new. I received it in the mail yesterday and when I plugged it into the charger after receiving it, it stopped chargingso I connected it to the system and the indicator led showed a full charge so I assumed it was just that it was already fully charged but now I'm second guessing that and wondering if some conditioning would help.
Something else that occurred to me is that I recently replaced the Anderson connectors on the controller. The connectors I got are 30 amp, could that potentially cause any problems?
The battery that I just got is brand new. I received it in the mail yesterday and when I plugged it into the charger after receiving it, it stopped chargingso I connected it to the system and the indicator led showed a full charge so I assumed it was just that it was already fully charged but now I'm second guessing that and wondering if some conditioning would help.
That could be the problem i would suggest a bigger amp anderson connector
http://www.connex-electronics.com/?..._select.html?gclid=CNyvosPX_aoCFc_AKgodGQnLTQ
http://www.connex-electronics.com/?..._select.html?gclid=CNyvosPX_aoCFc_AKgodGQnLTQ
dogman dan
1 PW
How sure are you that you have a full charge? Green lights on chargers mean two things. There is an indicator on the bike itself? It could be wonky. So get a voltmeter, it's step one for any kind of investigation.
Green charger light means....
1 you are fully charged
2 you are disconnected between the charger and the battery. Intermittent contact from flaky plugs, or wires could be the problem. Could be the plug on the charger, or even a bad connection inside the charger iteslf. I've run into this problem more than once so it could be that. You may be getting a lot less than fully charged, and the battery shuts off when it's supposed to.
In addition, andersons sometimes back out of the housing, so make sure they are clicked in good, and if not, bend the tip down some so they do. It could be a flaky connetion anywhere on the bike. So check every single plug on the bike for backed out contacts.
Green charger light means....
1 you are fully charged
2 you are disconnected between the charger and the battery. Intermittent contact from flaky plugs, or wires could be the problem. Could be the plug on the charger, or even a bad connection inside the charger iteslf. I've run into this problem more than once so it could be that. You may be getting a lot less than fully charged, and the battery shuts off when it's supposed to.
In addition, andersons sometimes back out of the housing, so make sure they are clicked in good, and if not, bend the tip down some so they do. It could be a flaky connetion anywhere on the bike. So check every single plug on the bike for backed out contacts.
DAND214
10 MW
When they replaced the battery, did they replace the charger?
As Dogman says, check the connectors you replaced and check your voltage out of the battery and charger.
that hub setup shouldn't be too hard on that pack. Start looking at the connectors.
Dan
As Dogman says, check the connectors you replaced and check your voltage out of the battery and charger.
that hub setup shouldn't be too hard on that pack. Start looking at the connectors.
Dan
Hey guys, I finally figured this one out this weekend. It turned out to be a faulty throttle connection. I had noticed that the indicator LED on the controller was blinking 5 times. I found the user manual for the eZee system which listed what each of these diagnostic codes meant and it showed that 5 blinks meant a faulty throttle.
Thanks so much for all the help and advice!
Thanks so much for all the help and advice!
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