GCinDC
100 MW
nope, but that'd solve the hall issue..
-
Howdy! we're looking for donations to finish custom knowledgebase software for this forum. Please see our Funding drive thread
Commuter build
- Thread starter Skippic
- Start date
cencalicruzin
1 µW
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2012
- Messages
- 1
Just gotta say this is very inspirational for me and i am already creating plans for when i will be doing an e-mtb build sometime soon. I like the downhill style and ability and wish to be using it to travel on city streets and campus/park fields in the week and then out to the trails on the weekends for high speed single track runs and jumps. I believe the motor and battery setup you are using would be great for what im looking for as well so i am now registered and subbed so that i can follow along for ideas!
I have no EV experience besides what i have been researching all over the internet for the past week or so but I have worked with lipo batteries and wiring while working on micro RC helis (a few brushless conversions/battery upgrades to get them really going). One thing i DO know is that a proper Lithium Polymer charger is VERY important when working with these things. They are known to quickly burst into aggressive and indistinguishable flames when something shorts out or if not balanced correctly while charging. Still, none of that turns me away from using it, the benefits outweigh the negatives (literally). With good equipment, proper wiring and careful practice the chances of that happening are greatly reduced, and in my 2.5 years of flying many different sized heli's with varying sizes and charge ratings and even charging those varying... in series at 2c or greater on a regular basis even... and no fires yet, but i still make sure to never charge them anywhere they could cause damage in case of a fire.
I was thinking to pick up an '05 Stinky or similar due to the large cavity in the middle that could be used for batteries and such but with your design it could work with just about anything with little modification. Im also up in the air about a motor although what you guys have been saying has got me going that same direction. Keep the good work coming and the competition rolling i will be joining in soon!!
haha
I have no EV experience besides what i have been researching all over the internet for the past week or so but I have worked with lipo batteries and wiring while working on micro RC helis (a few brushless conversions/battery upgrades to get them really going). One thing i DO know is that a proper Lithium Polymer charger is VERY important when working with these things. They are known to quickly burst into aggressive and indistinguishable flames when something shorts out or if not balanced correctly while charging. Still, none of that turns me away from using it, the benefits outweigh the negatives (literally). With good equipment, proper wiring and careful practice the chances of that happening are greatly reduced, and in my 2.5 years of flying many different sized heli's with varying sizes and charge ratings and even charging those varying... in series at 2c or greater on a regular basis even... and no fires yet, but i still make sure to never charge them anywhere they could cause damage in case of a fire.
I was thinking to pick up an '05 Stinky or similar due to the large cavity in the middle that could be used for batteries and such but with your design it could work with just about anything with little modification. Im also up in the air about a motor although what you guys have been saying has got me going that same direction. Keep the good work coming and the competition rolling i will be joining in soon!!
hahaSkippic
100 W
It has been some time since I contributed, but I've been pretty busy working on my bike. Here are the results:
The battery pack will consist of two blocks of 6 4s packs on each side. I've used silicone between the packs, two aluminum angles on top and bottom and fiberglass reinforced tape to hold it all together:
My portable charger will be placed on top of the pack. It will also contain an Arduino, which will be used both for controlling the charging and as a CA and the BMS. To save money I got 3 x 8s BMS from GGoodrum (I'll have 2s 2p 4s-packs connected to each BMS board).
The components are just placed to see how much space I need:
Making the box was a nightmare and you are much better off buying one.
I got a used 9C 9x7 from GCinDC. I test drove the 6x10 and the top speed even with 24s wasn't fast enough.
The halls are a simple matter:
Surprisingly the resistance between the windings and the metal part is just 1.2Kohm (same for all three phases).
On the other side you can see the phase wires and buried under the windings is a temp sensor (LM35DZ), which uses the same 5V as the halls and therefore only needs one extra signal cable going into the motor:
For those who are not using an Arduino or similar I strongly suggest this temperature/voltage alarm:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9744
$7.80, very flexible, easy to use. If you want to use the hall wire 5V to supply the sensor, you will need to use common ground and pull one signal cable through the axle.
Lacing a wheel is fun if you know you have the right size spokes - I wasn't sure
Lessons learned:
- think twice before you do anything
- before making an e-bike talk to someone, who already has one
- right tools make your life easy
- J-B weld is awesome
- silicone wires rule
- my wife hates when I solder stuff in the living-room
Coming up next:
- insulating varnish treatment for the motor
- Hua Tong controller should arrive in three days
- maybe first test ride next weekend
The battery pack will consist of two blocks of 6 4s packs on each side. I've used silicone between the packs, two aluminum angles on top and bottom and fiberglass reinforced tape to hold it all together:
My portable charger will be placed on top of the pack. It will also contain an Arduino, which will be used both for controlling the charging and as a CA and the BMS. To save money I got 3 x 8s BMS from GGoodrum (I'll have 2s 2p 4s-packs connected to each BMS board).
The components are just placed to see how much space I need:
Making the box was a nightmare and you are much better off buying one.
I got a used 9C 9x7 from GCinDC. I test drove the 6x10 and the top speed even with 24s wasn't fast enough.
The halls are a simple matter:
Surprisingly the resistance between the windings and the metal part is just 1.2Kohm (same for all three phases).
On the other side you can see the phase wires and buried under the windings is a temp sensor (LM35DZ), which uses the same 5V as the halls and therefore only needs one extra signal cable going into the motor:
For those who are not using an Arduino or similar I strongly suggest this temperature/voltage alarm:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9744
$7.80, very flexible, easy to use. If you want to use the hall wire 5V to supply the sensor, you will need to use common ground and pull one signal cable through the axle.
Lacing a wheel is fun if you know you have the right size spokes - I wasn't sure
Lessons learned:
- think twice before you do anything
- before making an e-bike talk to someone, who already has one
- right tools make your life easy
- J-B weld is awesome
- silicone wires rule
- my wife hates when I solder stuff in the living-room
Coming up next:
- insulating varnish treatment for the motor
- Hua Tong controller should arrive in three days
- maybe first test ride next weekend
Attachments
GCinDC
100 MW
i prefer the dining room. better light.Skippic said:
what varnish are you getting? enough for two motors?
are you just waiting on the controller now?? want to borrow mine for a test?
i look forward to trying out your sensorless controller too. heck, i look forward to going for rides in the woods with another dh ebike!
ps. thanks for sorting out my temp sensor!
Skippic
100 W
Varnish:
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00058374/k-G1811056?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed
should be enough for you, me, Ambrose and David
I'm mainly waiting for the controller now, but I need to know the exact width before I put my pack together. It is sensored.
I look forward to putting the bike together, I have spent a long time researching and buying stuff...
Let me know when you need the sensor. You should at least pull the signal cable through the axle.
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00058374/k-G1811056?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed
should be enough for you, me, Ambrose and David
I'm mainly waiting for the controller now, but I need to know the exact width before I put my pack together. It is sensored.
I look forward to putting the bike together, I have spent a long time researching and buying stuff...
Let me know when you need the sensor. You should at least pull the signal cable through the axle.
