crystalyte 405 shuddering, case for D electrical PI's

[scriewy]

hey pps, how YOU! doing.

ok let me give you the layout.
at this point i dont know anymore if this info is relevant, but i'l mention it just in case.

crime scene: i finaly got my 405 clyte after months of waiting !
laid it on my bed, felt it, was nice and smooth, hooked all the wires 1 dewalt 28v and 24-72 40 clyte, twisted the throttle a bit the motor budged, i got happy, disconnected wires took the motor to set it on the rear axle.
connected wires back, controller was on the floor, throttled slow it started rotating, so quiet that only when i WOT i heard mechanical whoooosh that probably came from the bearings, played around 1 min and noticed a nut on the mini xlr plug, turned power off disconnected xlr and twisted the nut a bit, xlr's pin head got loose and i twisted it 1cm back and forth out of curiosity, connected it back throttled and sudenly the motor started making click click sound and shuddering.
im like WTF ?!
i tried WOT and it started vibrating violently.

stuff i figured out back then, there was the normal cogging without any power when i rotated by hand, a bit of extra cogging when power was ON, after it got messed there was much more cogging with power ON, when i hand rotated the motor in it's intendent direction i felt like it was heating a wall/barrier inside, i figured it's magnetic cos happened only with power ON, the faster i rotated the motor the stronger i felt every hit.

there's like magnetic alignments and blind spots between them, there are many normal resistence spots but fewer of this barriers across the radius.

at WOT motor looks like totaly out of sync and just starts vibrating violently.
didnt saw any sparks fly or smoke while i disconnected the XLR and reconnected it, didnt short circuit anything.
this happened on thursday.

thought: shit after 75% throttle motor goes crazy so how will i run it over 28v.

started searching for stutter\ing shudder/ing vibration\ing motor, yesterday finished reading 100s of pages from 30+ threads, tried to hook 2 dewalts 53v, motor passed the old 75% throttles RPMs but started vibration after the new 75% throttle RPM so i figured it's something to do with signals not mechanical like 1 case with loose magnets.

checked controllers phase and pos neg wires with DMM at 2Mo (while controller is off, or should it be ON just not hooked to battery ?) all showed 0.348 0.350, then learned how to check hall sensors he he , xlr started giving me the stink eye i said i'l bust a cap in your pin ! took from some old PSU single hitec terminals and cut with hot knife some single terminals that hook to pc motherboards (tamya ?) they fit snugly XLR pins, striped shrink tubing, juiced 5v battery from behind XLR's head and got this
y - 0 - 0.58
G - 0.4 - 0.7
B - 0 - 1
do i have to use 1k resistor ? i didnt.
so the green sensors looks dead, or semi broke ?
baterry sags at WOT no load to 26v from 26.6v, current draw at WOT 3amp, which looks pretty a lot for no load run.

checked XLR wires soldered to the pins seem fine and hold good, then idea came to play with phase combinations see how it'l spin backwords if at all, but before that i hooked eligators in correct order dont remember what for, suddenly there was less resistance then when the andersons are connected directly, the clicking almost went away but still there, and at WOT no violent vibrations any more, just clicking left, top no load speed 20mph (looks slow for 26v ?)

at this point i'm confused, i plan to splice both sides of phase wires motor and cont and connect aligators from behind as it seems something weird with andersons on the phases when they connected directly, but how the motor spins better when i connect aligators in same order through the andersons, i'm only extending wire between the andersons and if they are messed up how can an extention wire correct the mess if it's connected between the messed terminals ?
if i were to bypass the messed terminals by splicing into the wires behind andersons, that's understandble.

so i dont know if to cut the andersons or to open the motor, would a motor even run pretty smooth with 1 sensors dead ?

i can make a video of it all, will it help ?

thanks a LOT !

 

[Ypedal]

Yes, a video would help explain things more clearly.

but DO check the andersons both on the motor and controller side, make sure the pins are all the way to the end and not pulled partially back into the housings..

also take the hall XLR connector apart to check the wires, the 5 strands should be shrink wrapped to prevent shorting them out but sometimes they are exposed and can cause problems..

Is the motor brand new ? or used ?

does the cable exiting the motor look damaged in any way ?

NEVER power up a hub motor unless it's bolted to a frame, and i'm not just talking the flats in the slots, but axle nuts tightened .. only then should you try it. ( you risk personal injury, and/or twisting the wires into a mess at the axle exit point )

 

[scriewy]

finaly did the video !

i was working and tired last 2 days in a row, now a bit ok.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LkfpGTz_BE

the cam cought the clicks pretty well, in the previouse state the clicks you'd hear simply were much louder and stronger in resistance.

i also ren the motor only with 2 phases to see the difference, feels like it misses a pulse, noticeable gap in sound and rotation is jerky.

im forgeting to mention something hmm.....

awaiting further orders.

edit:
ohh remembered, when using immediate start controller does motor suppose to turn from every position ? as you can see when i tried to start mine it was in some blind spot only tilting a bit till i got it in the right place by hand after few tries.
i do remember when i ren it the first time it started every time without aligning it, but then again i only started it maybe 3-4 times in 1 minut, plus after starting it and slowly letting it stop it usualy stops already aligned in the correct spot and next time will start rotating alone.

 

[scriewy]

here's a KICK ASS update !!! or more like how i got ASS KICKED by things.

updates acomulated but didnt have time to post in coherent way.

since the video i didnt touch the motor ! it was laying just like that, i just disconnected the bat cables so they wont drain.
i think on and of every few days i connected it back and tried to run for a few seconds, saw there was no change and tried running it more rarely.

on THE 20.7 !!!!!!! i hooked it up as usualy and poof ! it suddenly spun as on the first day ~!!
but i am curious and dont let things start working just like that so i spun the motor by hand forward then backwords, forward was smooth without the resisting force (wall), then ren it again but it started clicking again.
after few seconds it started spinning smooth, i spun it by hand again and noticed that after i spin it backwords this problem accures, so i stoped spining backwords, got happy ! all this span across 3-4 minuts, and i ren to work.

on 23/7 i took it with me to a friend so i wont waste my time in vain, eventualy didnt have any time to run it, 24/7 brought it home, motor got few skid marks n scratches hooked it up and it was same BS.
later that week friday 30.7 i decided to bypass hall sensor cables going into the motor, i went to auto shop cos i remembered seen once a gear puller in their possesion, opened motor, he gave unneeded help scratched my motor, at home i took off cable isolation near the halls YGB
did hall test but got same result, so i know it's not the motor hall cables but the sensor itself.

to bypass cables i stuck 5 pins in hall cables coming out of controller and continued those lines with aligators, i think i could have short circuited something cos my controller turned OFF !!
and when i looked at the pins and aligators saw them in proximity but didnt see for sure if any short circuited.

so now i got a new problem ! when i turn the controller the led shines and slowly dims out.
if i turn controller off and back on it repeats itself.
only when i leave the bat hooked up and then turn off, give it some time and turn on the led stays on, but when i twist throttle the motor jilts a bit and controller turns off again.

so what did i break now ? a dimming led tells me it's something with some capasitor, but what can the hall sensor cables burn except themselves they are 5v, the phase wires never shorted with anything, they are dengerouse

idile hands oh booooooy.

before this i already thought to order from keywin a sensorless controller as a back up on a sudden break on the road or to help me diagnose if the motor would run without halls.

but im too curious so i try different aproches. also got 6 sensors on the way from a member here.

controller issue now scares me. thanks for any HELP

edit: also after the controller led turns off, if i spin motor by hand either way, controllers led shines, the faster spun the brighter it shines.