Crystalyte NEW HIGH POWER hub motor...TheCrown

Will you offer a version with Hall Sensors Included? (My 18FET 4115 Lyen-Infineon Controller [with 45A default limit] with programmable regen requires Hall sensors.) If the Crown will not be offered with Hall sensors will the 60A 15FET 4115 controller you offer be able to provide regen? What price will you be charging for your 60A 4115 controller offering(s)?
 
Is this a good enough motor to run stationary into a nuvinci hub ?
 
hi-powercycles said:
We can do the first batch for a special price for you guys. We will offer 10 total for the first production batch, unlaced for $699 shipped to your door in the lower 48 states. The version will come with everything we mentioned in our previous post minus the air cooling holes. We can do air cooling, but that will be with the next batch.
I got my Cromotor for 500$... (shipping not included) 40% lower price
 
8 motors left. We can add hall sensors to run with Lyen's controller. Also, width is 140mm at dropouts. I opened one up for you guys:

Lamination Stack:
qx5o53.jpg


Silver plated Teflon wires:
34t9xqq.jpg


Inside of TheCrown:
2e31vs1.jpg
 
dh-paule said:
broken spokes ?
OK, i am new to electric bikes, but I was riding downhill / mx / enduro for years without broken spokes. And I am a 100 kg rider that doesnt have a "soft" riding style. So if they break they are to small. Once you using the correct size you can forget about the spokes... so its a one time job to lace the rim


Its true that if you use the correct sized spokes you can forget about them, but the correct size doesn't happen to be the big thick (making them stiff) low strength spokes that typically come with hubmotors. If you want to forget about wheel/spoke issues, you need a thin butted quality spoke like sapim or DT, stretched to extremely high tension. Then the wheel distributes loads effectively over a large area and tends not to fail.
 
Hmmm, they have these big deep slots, but didn't bother filling them up..
Bit strange, i don't get why they designed it as such.
Nonetheless, a wider motor is always better. Less copper wasted at the edges and all.

5303.jpg


Here's the windings of my 5303, for comparison.
 
i must agree with neptronix...there is so much unused slot space left on this picture of the TC stator...looks like 15% unused slot

i hope that it is because this pictures shows the very first prototype and that the production batch will have more copper in it and the slots will be filled completly

i cant imagine that Crystalyte will not use the whole slot...that would be stupid
 
hi-powercycles said:
Inside of TheCrown:
2e31vs1.jpg

For $700 there will be a lot more copper in those teeth right? I don't really like the idea that I can poke objects the size of a pencil through %75 of those holes.
Did kenny have a hard time getting the lady's at the factory to wind these motors?

Can you also get a close up of the lams?
 
hi-powercycles said:
8 motors left. We can add hall sensors to run with Lyen's controller. Also, width is 140mm at dropouts. I opened one up for you guys:

Great looking motor but for 3 hundred more than the 4065 make me wonder if it's 75% better. Again, I can't wait to here how this performs......might make we rethink my position on the cost.

Tom
 
erm, where can you buy a 4065 for 300 less? :)
 
Id love to see this against the crow motor

Be interesting to see the deeper slot windings vs the cro

Imo the x54 is a very solid motor, incredable performance, but i think this motor will mot have quite the same torque as a x54

But then again, ive only every tried a x54

Steveo
 
@Kepler
yes, you can remove the sidecovers without unlacing the wheel

@steveo
according to Kenny TheCrown has more torque than a X5400
 
Interesting. Looking forwards to see how this motor performs. Currently, my cromotor at 20S lipo does not lack in torque or speed, but in summer it needs better heat control, limiting me via the CAv3 when climbing mountains for more than 20 minutes.

Therefore, I am most interested in seeing how this "TheCrown" will perform in terms of time before overheating.
 
hjns said:
Interesting. Looking forwards to see how this motor performs. Currently, my cromotor at 20S lipo does not lack in torque or speed, but in summer it needs better heat control, limiting me via the CAv3 when climbing mountains for more than 20 minutes.

Therefore, I am most interested in seeing how this "TheCrown" will perform in terms of time before overheating.


Yes I'm interested too
 
[snobby wheel builder opinion, take with a grain of salt]

Slotted spoke holes for retention, high speeds, 12ga spokes mated to bicycle rims going 60mph. :?


Design a big motor and then use a SLOTTED hole on the same plane as the spoke force? I sure hope the outer flange is steel to prevent stress fracturing, aluminum doesn't like repeated loading and unloading. Can't say I am a fan of having an easy exit point for the spoke head, first person that hits a pothole at 60mph will be test dummy on rim flex VS slot length. With 12 ga spokes there just isn't enough tension with a bicycle rim to keep them under load during impacts. I certainly hope that there will be no issues, but going with such a design is a very bold move IMO.


I may be building up a wheelset with this hub, I was contacted in the last few days about it. My 11/12 butted spokes may give a better fitment unless Xlyte brought their tolerance down to mate tightly with 12ga spokes. I will be interested to actually build up the wheel and get some hands on it. Personally I would love to see Kenny start offering 2.3mm spoke holes and keep with regular flanges or straight pull designs. I made a jig just for HS hubs to redrill them for proper sized spokes with bicycle rims. On the next one we are going to try an asymmetrical pattern to reduce the spoke angles and allow for stronger bicycle rims with 13/14 butted spokes. Its cheaper than tooling up for a new rim.


On the plus side I do like how the spoke spacing is asymmetrical to reduce the insertion angle at the rim. It would be great if all large hubmotors were offered with 72 2.3mm holes to allow for similar patterns. We can always drill the hubs for larger spokes. We can't put material back for regular spokes.


I sent Kenny an email asking to offer this motor with regular flanges. IMO it would make it a more valuable and reliable wheel motor.

[/snobby rant]
 
RoughRider said:
according to Kenny TheCrown has more torque than a X5400
It would have more torque than the X54 for the same power setup, because of its light weight and large diameter. Yet, the big X54 sure can be fed much more power.

johnrobholmes said:
...
I sent Kenny an email asking to offer this motor with regular flanges. IMO it would make it a more valuable and reliable wheel motor.

[/snobby rant]
+1
 
dh-paule said:
broken spokes ?
OK, i am new to electric bikes, but I was riding downhill / mx / enduro for years without broken spokes. And I am a 100 kg rider that doesnt have a "soft" riding style. So if they break they are to small. Once you using the correct size you can forget about the spokes... so its a one time job to lace the rim

While you are right that spoke breakage can be basically eliminated, it's not true that thicker spokes are less likely to break in a properly built wheel. Spokes can be so small that they become very difficult to build with before they display any elevated risk of breakage. Too-thick spokes, on the other hand, cause other wheel reliability problems-- chronic spoke loosening and rim cracking. Poor quality spokes, or those that are not adequately stress-relieved at the time the wheel is built, are the spokes most subject to repeated breakage.

I have two bikes with 2.0/1.5mm spokes and one with 1.8/1.6mm, which I have ridden extensively (thousands of miles each) at body weights between my current approximately 150kg and almost 200kg. Not one of these three bikes has ever broken a spoke. Luke "liveforphysics" recently got a wheel built with 1.8/1.4mm spokes; I suppose in due course we'll see how it works out for him.

But both of us are discussing normal bike wheels, which are a good deal more reliable than wheels built on hub motors. Hub motors have a few things stacked against them. First, they usually have thin steel flanges, which are plenty strong, but harsh to the spoke elbows. Second, the large diameter of a hub motor tends to cause extreme insertion angles to the rim, and that in turn predisposes spokes to break at the threaded end. On top of these things, hub motors usually have really narrow spacing between flanges, which gives side loads on the wheel a lot more leverage by which to fluctuate spoke tension. All else equal, these things make the spokes of a hub motor wheel much more breakage-prone than spokes in a normal bicycle wheel.

Take into account that many Chinese hub motors arrive prebuilt with nasty cheap super-thick spokes, hastily assembled and haphazardly tensioned, and it's easy to see why spoke breakage is a familiar subject among the members of this forum.

I have had almost perfect reliability from my normal bike wheels, but my hub motor wheels have suffered broken spokes before-- sometimes more than once in the same wheel.
 
pchen92 said:
dh-paule said:
So if they break they are to small. Once you using the correct size you can forget about the spokes... so its a one time job to lace the rim
I think it's more like a tension problem not spoke size. 13g spokes are really strong if tight enough. Lifeforphysics used to run 14g spokes on a 30kw bike...
 
@chalo
@pchen92

you said what I mean... "to small" maybe was a wrong translation from my side
What I mean with "correct size" is : choose the right ones with a quality thats matching the needs
 
i dont think there will be any big issues with the spokes or the spoke holes...

Crystalyte tested this design very carefully and there was no issue with the spokes or the spoke holes...

the rotor is made out of aluminum...and i dont think there will be some issues about it...

we will see who is right...:)

John you are right about the angle of the spokes at the rim...makes it much easier to lace the motor

right now i am building a bike setup with a 72V battery and a 72V crystalyte controller...just to test this baby

i am very very curious about TheCrown...still cant belive that it is only 9kg

cant wait to get this motor in my hands...and in the bike...:)
 
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