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Cyclone 650 watt review.

New_Guy

10 µW
Joined
Nov 13, 2008
Messages
6
Location
Eugene, Oregon
I ordered the 650 watt kit direct from Cyclone Taiwan. It only took about 6 days to get here.

The motor and controller are marked as 24 volt, but Cyclone says that they can handle 36 volts. I assume that the motor is 500 watts at 24 volts and 650 watts at 36 volt.

I like it. Being able to use the rear cluster gears is great. I use the middle gears most of the time.

It'll go 35 kph but feels best below 30 kph. I purchased the speed limiter so that I could comply with the EU standard max speed of 25 kph [about 16 mph]. It looks pretty jerry rigged to me. I haven't been able to make it work yet, but I haven't' tried very hard either.

The 10 AH battery 24 volt battery gives me a range of 15 kilometers, on flat ground with a lot of peddling. It starts to loose torque around 10 kilometers and it shuts down pretty quickly after the throttle light stays on half charge.

I wouldn't ride in the rain with this thing without doing some major water proofing.

INSTALLATION RAMBLINGS:

The instructions on their web site are minimal and don't have examples for the 650 motor. I waited until the kit arrived before selecting a bike to put it on. I got a used 21 speed basic steel bike. That appears to be what the mounting bracket was designed for.

This kit is for tinkerers. Mounting the controller is going to require some fabrication. It is 150x135x55 mm and has 7 single conductor wires and 2 multi conductor cables that terminate in 7 pin connectors plus [2] 2 pin connectors coming out of it. What all those wires do, I haven't a clue and Cyclone isn't going to tell me. I have it zip tied on for now. It looks shabby, that is why I'm not including pictures.

Getting the old cartridge type bottom bracket removed was difficult. The tool provided was inadequate. The man at Cahill did it for me and installed the new axle for 10 euro. Well worth it. A special tool is required to install the right hand bearing race tight enough.

The short black M6 socket head screw goes thru the motor bracket into the threaded hole on one of the spacer bars. You can't see that on the online instructions.

The chain required 3 extra links.

I aligned the motor free wheel with the chain wheel by snugging up the bolts and tapping the bracket with a light hammer then tightened it up. If they are not aligned the chain will come off. You don't want that to happen. I stacked nuts onto the idler wheel bolt to give it extra strength.

I am happy with the motor so far. It's fast enough for me.
The battery doesn't give the range I expected.
The P.A.S. Speed Limiter was probably a waste of money.
:)
 
New_Guy said:
I
This kit is for tinkerers. Mounting the controller is going to require some fabrication. It is 150x135x55 mm and has 7 single conductor wires and 2 multi conductor cables that terminate in 7 pin connectors plus [2] 2 pin connectors coming out of it. What all those wires do, I haven't a clue and Cyclone isn't going to tell me. I have it zip tied on for now. It looks shabby, that is why I'm not including pictures.

Are you sure it is 9 single core wires ? There may have been a change in controller model, but mine has the two wire battery leads plus three motor phase power leads.

The multi pin to the motor is the hall sensor wiring which you can figure out easily by reading the silk screening on the PCB inside the motor

The (Qty 2) two pin connectors that come from the backof the throttle connector are both brake switches. I am not sure if it is an override for the throttle signal or if it runs to a separate brake input to the controller chip in the speed controller. Either way, if you short either of the 2 pin connectors the motor will stop driving. It is not a regen brake, and it couldnt be because of the freewheeling sprocket.
 
To Ypedal:
I wish I had a shop, had one in Oregon but liquidated to get over here. Thanks for the link to your site. It will be helpful.

To Pete:
7 single conductor wires, 2 to the battery and 5 to the motor. It's nice to know that the information is on the circuit board inside the motor, but I'm not going to open it up for a looksee at this time. Thanks for the info, it's enough for now.
 
Hehe, no worries.

Don't forget to add an update in a few weeks once your build has settled down and you have a better feel for it. There is very little long term data available at the moment.

Oh, I didn't catch whether you are using the single or double freewheel. If it is the double freewheel then I recommend you loctite the screw that holds the freewheel onto the output shaft. I had mine fall out.

If it is the single freewheel then I don't know how effective the grub screw is but it can't hurt to loctite that in also.
 
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