Dave's 80:1 RC mid drive kit build log

Not off the top of my head I am afraid, can you open it up and take measurements?
 
impressed with the cyc x1 pro tbh...love pas shame it is a clear copy of Daves masterpiece
 
Ham said:
impressed with the cyc x1 pro tbh...love pas shame it is a clear copy of Daves masterpiece
Are you shore? I didn't know CYC is using cycloidal gearbox.
 
Nah, last I saw, CYC X1 Pro is definitely 6:1 planetary reduction, similar principal to the mini cyclone.

Theres no doubt the X1 is a great unit, but I don't think it has the power of an Astro 3220! The X1 has a much slower KV, so I think it needs to be run at 72V instead of 48V to get the same rpm, which means more battery to carry? And their controller still seems to be troublesome with a throttle last i read? I may not be correct about the controller though?
 
cr0m08 said:
Nah, last I saw, CYC X1 Pro is definitely 6:1 planetary reduction, similar principal to the mini cyclone.

Theres no doubt the X1 is a great unit, but I don't think it has the power of an Astro 3220! The X1 has a much slower KV, so I think it needs to be run at 72V instead of 48V to get the same rpm, which means more battery to carry? And their controller still seems to be troublesome with a throttle last i read? I may not be correct about the controller though?
And plastic gears. :evil:
Tangent had aluminum gears.
What about that one?
Cycloid 19-1 2.JPG
 
Dave did play with some aluminium gears, I used some in my gen 1 unit, but he found them too soft and went back to steel.
As I mentioned to you Ecyclist in a PM sometime ago, I don't think Dave got his calculations quite right or maybe it was the manufacture not quite accurate enough. He did say it was difficult with his machinery to get tolerances close enough, which is why he wanted to get to the point he could outsource the manufacture of the parts onto better machines. I find there is noise and some vibrations on the Tangent, which means its just not quite there, and loosing some efficiency, and getting wear it should not. It is a pity because its brilliant to ride. Also I witnessed a Sumitomo cycloidal drive working on the mine site I was on. The unit was completely silent and void of all vibrations, so it can be done and therefore have enormous efficiency, as we can see from the amp draw photos of the Avian drive running.
I am not tying to criticise Dave's Tangents, merely to say, they could be even better.

What would be fantastic, is if Ecyclist's Avian gearbox design was made for the astro 3220 somewhere between 13:1 an 19:1 :p :p :p Ahhhh the stuff of dreams, but I don't think that will happen :p :p :p
 
I will make one with 8072 outrunner. Outrunners run much cooler, produce more torque and are dirt cheap. Winter is a hobby time for me. However snowboarding is on the top of my list. I love Mammoth Mountain. 8)
 
Dave's mid drive is great, but it has its limitations imo.

I believe the tolerances like previously mentioned are one problem. The gear in mine is destroyed, there is a crack and the surfaces are totally misshapen.

I will be trying to mate a cyc x1Pro gearbox/crankset to my astro 3220. I expect the gearbox to hold up better than the tangent in the long run and be more readily available for repair/replacement.
 
Fried my CC HV80 on my 3210 Tangent today (got it wet while doing a snowy trail ride). Castle Creations HV80's are easy enough to come by by I understand Dave used a custom made shunt for it to work properly. What are the chances I can buy a new HV80 and use the old shunt to facilitate repairs. Love my Tangent, don't want to give it up and move on.......
 
morati said:
Fried my CC HV80 on my 3210 Tangent today (got it wet while doing a snowy trail ride). Castle Creations HV80's are easy enough to come by by I understand Dave used a custom made shunt for it to work properly. What are the chances I can buy a new HV80 and use the old shunt to facilitate repairs. Love my Tangent, don't want to give it up and move on.......
Chances are good but prepare for some soldering. Just use the shunt and the wiring from the fried one. I’ve done that operation a few times. New HV80s are very very sensitive to water.
 
knurf said:
morati said:
Fried my CC HV80 on my 3210 Tangent today (got it wet while doing a snowy trail ride). Castle Creations HV80's are easy enough to come by by I understand Dave used a custom made shunt for it to work properly. What are the chances I can buy a new HV80 and use the old shunt to facilitate repairs. Love my Tangent, don't want to give it up and move on.......
Chances are good but prepare for some soldering. Just use the shunt and the wiring from the fried one. I’ve done that operation a few times. New HV80s are very very sensitive to water.
Much Appreciated! I'll give it a shot......
 
morati said:
knurf said:
morati said:
Fried my CC HV80 on my 3210 Tangent today (got it wet while doing a snowy trail ride). Castle Creations HV80's are easy enough to come by by I understand Dave used a custom made shunt for it to work properly. What are the chances I can buy a new HV80 and use the old shunt to facilitate repairs. Love my Tangent, don't want to give it up and move on.......
Chances are good but prepare for some soldering. Just use the shunt and the wiring from the fried one. I’ve done that operation a few times. New HV80s are very very sensitive to water.
Much Appreciated! I'll give it a shot......
What voltage are you running this poor thing?
Maybe it is time to build a nice waterproof case.
I'm using VESC on my kit and rode thru a typhoon in Japan without a single problem.
Vesc inside of the case attached to the bike..JPG
Japan. Middle of nowhere..JPG
 
Wow, sweet setup! Running 12S or 14S lipo, depending on situation.......
Wish I had a vertical milling machine or a lathe.
 

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morati said:
Wow, sweet setup! Running 12S or 14S lipo, depending on situation.......
Wish I had a vertical milling machine or a lathe.
For 12s you could use VESC 4.12 just fine. You might be able to use it at 14s, but not fully charged. This would make your battery last much longer. I'm waiting for a single UBOX. I think that this will be a perfect VESC for a mid power (3-4 KW) e-bike.
For now only dual UBOX is available.
You can read about it here: https://forum.esk8.news/t/spintend-75v-200a-ubox-based-on-75v-300a-vesc-and-uni1-introduction/39125
Yes, CNC mill is nice to have. The only machine I don't have is EDM.
 
Ecyclist said:
morati said:
Wow, sweet setup! Running 12S or 14S lipo, depending on situation.......
Wish I had a vertical milling machine or a lathe.
For 12s you could use VESC 4.12 just fine. You might be able to use it at 14s, but not fully charged. This would make your battery last much longer. I'm waiting for a single UBOX. I think that this will be a perfect VESC for a mid power (3-4 KW) e-bike.
For now only dual UBOX is available.
You can read about it here: https://forum.esk8.news/t/spintend-75v-200a-ubox-based-on-75v-300a-vesc-and-uni1-introduction/39125
Yes, CNC mill is nice to have. The only machine I don't have is EDM.
Mmmmmm looks promising if I can't get the Castle Creations ESC to work.
Curious if anyone has tried the Nucular 6F? It can run sensorless motors as well and the buy-in price isn't bad.
 
morati said:
Ecyclist said:
morati said:
Wow, sweet setup! Running 12S or 14S lipo, depending on situation.......
Wish I had a vertical milling machine or a lathe.
For 12s you could use VESC 4.12 just fine. You might be able to use it at 14s, but not fully charged. This would make your battery last much longer. I'm waiting for a single UBOX. I think that this will be a perfect VESC for a mid power (3-4 KW) e-bike.
For now only dual UBOX is available.
You can read about it here: https://forum.esk8.news/t/spintend-75v-200a-ubox-based-on-75v-300a-vesc-and-uni1-introduction/39125
Yes, CNC mill is nice to have. The only machine I don't have is EDM.
Mmmmmm looks promising if I can't get the Castle Creations ESC to work.
Curious if anyone has tried the Nucular 6F? It can run sensorless motors as well and the buy-in price isn't bad.
Just so you know, you can install sensors inside of your Astro. You can find posts on this forum how to do that.
 
What would cause a complete lockup of the drive and can it be fixed?

Tangent V1.5, free wheel and Astro 3210 are in good working order, something is jammed up inside the tangent drive.

[Update] Tore down the drive. Looks like the bearing inside exploded. Had plenty of grease, greased every 100 miles, has about 4-500 miles on the drive. Wonder what the life of these bearing is.

Anyone know how to reach out to Dave for parts?
 
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