Do I need a puller for replacing hall sensors?

Maybe I will buy another motor from the same seller and try building the wheel myself, would be handy with a spare one.

I would also like to have some more juice. The battery I have is not powerful enough, so when I go full speed it shuts down. What are my options without going lipo? Are there any cheap and light weight alternatives? I like the triangular batteries from EM3ev but those are very expensive.
 
Congratulations, now you are an expert.

Soldering a halls is a pain, I'd have left good ones in place too. If the motor really fried bad, you would more likely have had all three blown.
 
utsi said:
Yes, the sensors were glued into some holes in the metal. Had to use a lot of heat and a small screwdriver to get the broken one out. I'm a little ashamed to admit it, but I only changed the broken one instead of all 3 :oops: Doing all seemed a little risky the first time.

you only have to replace the bad one. they are not matched transistors. they are integrated circuits and as long as they have the 5V and ground they all work identically, new or used.
 
Yes, I will not replace more sensors than needed. It took me 3 attempts to get it right. I bent the legs of the first one so it broke. The second one the solder joins got too big so it was scratching the cover from inside when the motor was spinning. The third time I soldered 3 small wires to the sensors and applied shrink tubing before soldering it to the motor. What a PITA! :D

Now, should I buy an alibaba battery like dogman dan did? The problem is that it will not fit inside my triangle so I will have to put it on the rear rack, which means moving my controller to the triangle. But since it is less than 5kg it wouldn't mess up the balance too bad, or would it?
 
you can cut the packs apart and reassemble them into the frame. just connect the serial sections with large gauge cable and put the sense wires in the middle of the connecting cable.
 
Very cool! Do you know any tutorials on how to do this? I'd hate to mess up... Getting ready to pull the trigger on this.
 
I haven't endorsed the alibaba battery at all yet. Just reported that it came, and puts out 90% of it's rated capacity.
Cutting one of those packs in half would be a nightmare to me. But at 15 pounds, easy to carry on top of a rack. Or just carry on one side, in a pannier.
 
Yes, I know you didn't endorse it. Thanks for sharing your experience with it! 15 pounds? According to the specs it's less than 11. Did you weigh it? Weight matters a lot to me as I carry my bike up and down the stairs to my flat, 3rd floor..

Maybe this is a dumb question, but if I buy this battery and a 30A controller, will my 1000W motor run a lot faster? And if so, will beefing up the phase wires be the only other upgrade I need?
 
New plan!

I have an old liFePo4-battery from sun-shing28, 48v 20ah. Heavy as hell and too big to fit inside the triangle, but since I have it I might as well use it for a while. It says it can deliver 30A continuously, could I just buy a cheap 1500W controller from China to use with my 1000W motor, or would that kill the battery?

I used to have the liFePo4 in a backpack, but 9kg battery + laptop and gym stuff is a pain to have on your back.
 
you can take the sun-thing pack apart and split it 3/4&1/4 and put the 1/4 lower in the triangle so it may fit then. the trick is to use a large wire to connect the two sections and then place the sense wire for that node in the middle of the wire you use to connect them. it is easy plus then you can finally put the pack in compression with end plates to keep it alive longer.

always confine your high C rate discharges to a full pack and keep it under 1C when you reach midway in SOC and then drop to 1/2 C at the end of the charge. the cooler you can keep the pack during discharge the longer it will last and high C at low SOC means hot hot.
 
It's an impractical battery size - 270mm * 160mm * 140mm. Would it be possible to split it in 3* 90mm thick blocks, have 2 in the frame and 1 on the rear rack?

I don't know much about the anatomy of the battery, what does it mean to put it in compression?

Also, does splitting a battery mean that I will have to learn how to spot weld or other difficult stuff?
 
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