E+ bicycle hand-made in USA UPDATE

rebelpilot said:
kaysellters said:
Spewing ignorance with every word.
exactly what part was ignorant? This bike is not made in the usa, but partially assembled in the usa and extremely expensive for what is provided

E+ Regularily sells their 1000w version, installed on their standard mountain bike, for $2,000; subscribe to their email list, and you will get an offer for this @ once a month. Wherever the E+ components may be made, they are built to American standards not chinese standards. Think of the difference between Craftsman tools and ones you get from Harbor Freight; the Craftsman would cost a lot more, but it wouldn't break the 3rd time you use it.

We build our ebikes from cheaply made chinese products and a lot of sweat-equity, so maybe $2k seems expensive at first blush. However, we spend a lot of time hardening those cheap chinese products, and fixing them when they break. So yes, you can get more performance and range for the $ by building from Cheap Chinese Crap. You can get a more durable, robust, USA-warranteed, no-effort, long-term bike for the $ from an E+.

It is simply a matter of what your needs are. E+ rocks my mom without causing me hassle, and I prefer to roll my own from Cheap Chinese Crap.

E+ is a great fit for people who want a low maintenance daily commuter, because they either don't have the time or skills to maintain an ebike. It is not a sport bike, more like an ebike appliance reduced to the least common denominator, and very well balanced as a result of putting the mass in the wheels. It is a well-thought out machine, hampered by their continued use of NiMh cells and a competitive marketplace.

The E+ is not a great fit for someone who wants a fast, long range, or user-configurable bike, and has the skills to make that happen. However, it would be a challenge to build a bike of equivalent ROBUSTNESS for the same $2k, especially if you include the labor costs.

-JD
 
Agree with a lot of what Oat said. Yes, there is a 2K bike from E+, however Rebel was referring to the bike I own (M-750 X2.0) which retails at $4495.00, I got it for $4K and the lowest I've seen it was $3800.00 at Xmas, however because they only have like 40 remaining from the original limited batch of 240, the price usually stays the same.

I agree in terms of the building standards, and I don't have the skills to maintain or build an E-bike. I use my bike for commuting, daily excercise and mountain biking. It is a no-maintenance closed system, so the only thing to worry about is general bike maintenance.

It is hampered by the NiMh front hub battery pack, however you have the option to purchase the Lithium Add-On battery, which will be available again in Xmas. They are currently sold out. (This is not a front-hub, just an Aux battery mounted on rear-rack. This provides a very long range with two batteries, or you can use a regular front wheel and the Lipo only. This is the same kind of LiPo packs I see on a lot of the bikes here, mounted in the back.

It is I agree, not the most long-range system you can buy. The range can be extended significantly with LiPo, but using the front hub alone, you are limited to about 30-35 miles max range with pedal assist, 10-20 miles range with little to no pedalling (depending on many factors). Usually around 13 for me with the hilly roads where I live if I dont assist at all. The LiPo pack is also not cheap, that is for sure.

I do want to disagree about the speed. The E+ engine easily gets me up to 28 mph on setting 5 without pedalling, 34 mph on setting 7-9. I have pedalled it up to 44mph, but have not wanted to go any faster -- it is after all a bike, not a motorcycle. Give me some fatter tires and I would be ok, but the roads around where I live just have too many dangerous holes, cracks and bumps. Either way, the speeds are pretty fast, sure they aren't your 55mph speeds you see some of these guys getting --- thats awesome, but hella dangerous.
 
Miro,

After reading Oat's posts, I am also thinking that maybe you need to adjust your brakes etc. I also feel no real clicking or jerking with the E+ system, except for when applying regen braking, sometimes there is a slight pull, but that is pretty normal with regen brakes. I also feel that same slight pull on the TF, I rode it this afternoon and it has the same exact regen jerk that the E+ does. It is very slight --- I do not feel any of the other jerks you are describing, and I don't see Oats mention it either.
 
I have a skiils to build my own ebike, however I would need a motor among other things.
What motors are offered out there for sale?
Motors with undersized wires, not sealed like E+, TF, falling off magnets after kms, crude assembly, primitive, inefficient BUT CHEAP.
If you look inside TF motor after 20,000 km you will not find any rust inside.
You will not see undesized wires squized through axle.
E+ motor like TF is a work of art mechanically and electrically and even suggesting that it is made in China is pure nonsense.
Unless you want to troll here tell us about any proof and we will look,
EMS maker of E+ would have to contract some shop in China for manufacture and assembly which would never in the world manufacture something like TF motor.
Yes, Sony, Canon, Toshiba etc. have THEIR OWN factories in China and use just Chinese labour.
EMS cannot open their own plant , no way.
So if you can , have a skills to build your own bike is irrelevent if you cannot have TF or E+ kind of motor no matter how much silicon for sealing or duct tape are you going to use.
 
kaysellters said:
Agree with a lot of what Oat said. Yes, there is a 2K bike from E+, however Rebel was referring to the bike I own (M-750 X2.0) which retails at $4495.00, I got it for $4K and the lowest I've seen it was $3800.00 at Xmas, however because they only have like 40 remaining from the original limited batch of 240, the price usually stays the same.

It is hampered by the NiMh front hub battery pack, however you have the option to purchase the Lithium Add-On battery, which will be available again in Xmas. They are currently sold out. (This is not a front-hub, just an Aux battery mounted on rear-rack. This provides a very long range with two batteries, or you can use a regular front wheel and the Lipo only. This is the same kind of LiPo packs I see on a lot of the bikes here, mounted in the back.

I do want to disagree about the speed. The E+ engine easily gets me up to 28 mph on setting 5 without pedalling, 34 mph on setting 7-9. I have pedalled it up to 44mph, but have not wanted to go any faster -- it is after all a bike, not a motorcycle. Give me some fatter tires and I would be ok, but the roads around where I live just have too many dangerous holes, cracks and bumps. Either way, the speeds are pretty fast, sure they aren't your 55mph speeds you see some of these guys getting --- thats awesome, but hella dangerous.

Yeah, I think you overpaid at 4k: 2k for the motor kit, and 2k for the frame and special badging. The frame can be had for a few hundred (marketed as the jeep frame among others), and the old M bikes can be had for under a grand. You may remember me as the Tidalforce guy - I have a huge collection of TF, including M-750X, S-750X, IO-X, (all with the rear battery) and a whole mess of non-x bikes and parts, minus the (135) S-750 frames I sold here.

Your speeds on flats don't match up with what I am seeing on TF-X or my 1000w E+, which I only use on '9'. I have to be on a steep downhill/tailwind to see 35mph, 28mph with heavy pedaling, 24mph not pedaling. Body position/resistance might account for some
it, but our numbers are far enough apart to make me wonder if you are seeing km instead of miles? Or am I confused, is the X2 still a 1000w/36v system? 35mph on 1000w is pretty good, only 28.5 wh/m to overcome 35mph drag.

The 36v9ah pack has 324wh, 260 usable at an 80% DOD, which would cover (9) miles at the 28.5wh/m rate from your 35mph estimate.

-JD
 
oatnet said:
Yeah, I think you overpaid at 4k: 2k for the motor kit, and 2k for the frame and special badging. The frame can be had for a few hundred (marketed as the jeep frame among others), and the old M bikes can be had for under a grand. You may remember me as the Tidalforce guy - I have a huge collection of TF, including M-750X, S-750X, IO-X, (all with the rear battery) and a whole mess of non-x bikes and parts, minus the (135) S-750 frames I sold here.

Your speeds on flats don't match up with what I am seeing on TF-X or my 1000w E+, which I only use on '9'. I have to be on a steep downhill/tailwind to see 35mph, 28mph with heavy pedaling, 24mph not pedaling. Body position/resistance might account for some
it, but our numbers are far enough apart to make me wonder if you are seeing km instead of miles? Or am I confused, is the X2 still a 1000w/36v system? 35mph on 1000w is pretty good, only 28.5 wh/m to overcome 35mph drag.

The 36v9ah pack has 324wh, 260 usable at an 80% DOD, which would cover (9) miles at the 28.5wh/m rate from your 35mph estimate.

-JD

Well, first off the Montague Paratrooper Frame is not really sold by itself often -- I haven't seen one -- in my local bikeshop, the Paratrooper with a barebones system is going for $900 -- are you talking about the same bike? Jeep Frame and Paratrooper Frame from Montague are not the same...

Please send me a link, but I don't think it's the same thing. If you have the Original M-750X From Tidalforce, then you have the Paratrooper frame -- not jeep I don't think. Maybe I'm wrong. The montague frames are pretty nifty and also the original design. The X2.0 is not TF, it's E+, but just called Tidalforce M-750 X2.0 as a tribute to the original etc after the company went out of business. The parts on the bike are upgraded throughout, I took it to my bikeshop and the numbers I quoted you on how much the parts were worth are from the guys I talked to there. Sure it's not cheap, but the bike itself is very high quality and built like a tank -- it is also heavy.

http://epluselectricbike.com/buy-bikes-online/signature-electric-bikes/tidalforce-bike-m-750

That is the bike I bought -- I overpaid a little based on that it's limited edition, but that is just the choice of if you want limited edition or not. I guess I wanted one of only 240 X2's out there. But from parts+ system, it's still not that serious of a markup.

In regards to speed, it is the E+ 1000W system. Let me first say, there is a variance between a windy day and a sunny little/no wind day. When I talk about my speeds, I talk about the sunny/ little wind days on relatively flat roads around my place. When measuring, I use E+ meter but have compared with TomTom GPS, an iphone and a bikemate speed reader. Like talking to Miro above, I at first also had a variance, but after bringing my bike into general servicing at E+, my mileage is now almost dead-on with the GPS unit. As for speeds, I get to about 26-28mph on level 5, it takes a little longer than if I was using 7-9, but I have a 4 mile stretch around where I live which is mostly flat, sometimes a slight decline, and I am usually going 27-28 the entire time, speeding up a little with some pedalling and then coming back to that speed or slowing down slightly on slight inclines. If it is windy out, then my speeds drop 6-7miles lower depending on whether I am just using battery or assisting and how strong the wind is.

With level 9 on that same road during sunny days, on high levels 7-9, I am easily levelling out around 34mph with a variance of +-2 depending on whether the road inclines or declines slightly. I drive behind cars doing 30-35mph on the local road all the time, in fact I have had a friend cruise next to me in a subaru doing 33=36mph and I have been cruising next to him on that road without pedalling.

I do want to make a note that sometimes the bike will not push from 29 onwards (especially on setting 7), but if I pedal a few times up to 34-35, the motor will easily keep me there. The X2 also comes with a bigger crankset, which I did notice a difference when riding my friends TF. I don't know where the difference comes in, but I can assure you I get these speeds. Cruising home from work last week I did 13.6 miles at an average of 27mph and that was 8 miles of uphill.

I don't know how you calculate, but in terms of riding style -- yes, if you are doing 33-35mph, you are burning up that battery. Like I said in my previous post, driving full speed on highest setting without pedalling, I can't imagine getting more than 9-12 miles out of the bike. When I rode the bike pedalling very hard and going as fast as I could, I got about 13miles out of it at top speed. I had a lot of uphills, but also a lot of very fast stretches and 40MPH+ top speeds on the downhills. I also pedalled intensely. But that is not how I really ride on a daily basis.

I do not drive on power 9, in fact the bike does not need it. It easily pulls me up any hill on level 5 with just minor user effort, and if I get tired I put it up to 6-7. Level 9 is reserved for the last 1-2 miles of fast cruising home if I choose, and I don't see the point as 7 is basically as powerful and drains less charge.
I have been getting closer to 20 miles per charge, averaging around the 23-25 average speed mark with constant assist of some kind, ranging from 4-7. Long range is 35 miles +, I would guess optimal road conditions, pedalling hard and low power output -- I can't say, because I haven't pushed it to see how long I could go -- but I have done 28.6 miles with battery to spare driving economically at a 20mph pace with solid pedalling throughout.
 
My speeds are close to what Oatnet describes.
My E+ will never reach 30mph on flat without pedalling, usually 25-27mph on flat with zero wind.
With pedalling it would reach 31-32mph max on flat zero wind.
And those are numbers from E+ display MINUS 1mph.
my numbers agree with review done and publish on other forum:
here is the link to tests done by David Heron, green vehicle activist on Vis for Voltage forum:
http://visforvoltage.org/forum/9319-head-head-a2b-metro-and-ems-elite-bicycles
 
miro is your hub battery 9 amp hours or 10?
oatnet seems to indicate that his is the older 9Ah.
the latest E+ is using gold peak cells with 50 amp continuous discharge capability compared with 45A max in the original hub.
i'm sure the lower impedance cells have higher voltage maintenance that would result in a mph or two higher top end.
can't remember where i read it but the prototype Li hub E+ has been testing which can hold 40+V under heavy load is capable of close to 45 mph.
so kv~~1mph/volt?

kaysellters, perhaps you could confirm this rumour with E+ next you talk to them?
and yeah, $4k is kinda spendy for essentially the same ebike i paid $2 grand for 6 years ago.
even with upgraded components i think i'm still under $3k but with the debasing of currency everything has inflated in price so it's hard to compare.
a month ago a used mx2 with 650 miles sold for $1750 on craigslist with old TF's going for $500 in the used section requiring a $700 hub batt refurb of course.
 

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let me come back home from work and have a look at the pictures I took of opened front hub.
But I am pretty sure it says "min.10,000mAh" on them and they are green, regular D-size cells, not what is shown in your PDF file drawings.
 
just my 2 cents but many bike retailers on the net sell the paratrooper for 5-700 dollars.google montague paratrooper.i picked up a montague hummer for 175 off of craigslist which is basically a paratrooper.peace out.
 
We can stop debating the price. If 4K is expensive for you guys, so be it. I know it's overpriced a little bit based on it's limited edition, but the parts like I said are worth at least a good chunk of the total price - I know you said you got a m-750X, thats a great bike - but parts wise other than the powering system, it's all stock -- On the 2.0, everything stock on the Montague frames was replaced and then some - so thats where a chunk of the price difference comes in --

It's like two people building speed bikes with the same frame, and then one guy upgrading everything with Carbon and the fanciest gear systems -- when you compare the price, sure it will be same frame, and 2-5k price difference (my friend has a 7K Trek -- I don't get it, but I guess he does) -- it's the same here, it's similar frame -- similar propulsion although different -- but the parts do make a difference. Anyway, enoug about the price --

In regards to speed, I do know that the rims on my bike are larger than those that Miro wrote about (DX19). I don't know how much of a difference that makes, but I do know that the speeds I get are accurate. I am uploading two pictures I took yesterday driving on the flat outside my house -- I apologize for the blurryness -- it was dark and I took like 50 shots with my iphone -- these are the only 2 where you cna make out anything from the display --

The numbers are Power Level (4) -- Speed steady 26.9 - two seperate shots - same speed about 30 seconds apart I believe -- don't remember exactly which two shots these were but the bike was holding that speed on that power level -- I had pedalled it up to about 20mph simply because there are cars on the road and I can't afford to slowly speed up, but after 20mph stopped pedalling and bike ended up at 26.9mph. I then was cruising at 33mph on power 8 but I could not get a clear photo -- I am heading for a 4 day vacation, but will try again when I return.
 

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Once again, sorry for the really poor quality of the shot -- I tried. Also the forum is not showing the second pic?

... anyway.....
 
kayselters,
tha question is really:
IS THERE ONE E+1000W SYSTEM or there are versions of E+ 1000W system.
As far as I know and my knowledge tell me speed on E+ is not measured like on bike computer - far from there - it is measured from position sensor or other sensor. Simply spped of bike is derived from rotations of motor I am sure "regular" E+ 1000W ebike will not reach 30mph on its own on flat with 0 wind.
 
Ummm....If you read my prior posts, you can see I have tested these speeds with TomTom GPS, Iphone (distance/speed phone app), BikeMate speed reader and driving next to a friend doing 33-36 mph without pedalling. I'm sorry if your bike does not do these speeds, and I don't think I have a special version of E+ --- I mean maybe it's newer, but I don't think its any more powerful than yours. Like I said before, I pedal up to speed mostly, then let the bike takeover most of the time, like yesterday power 4 got me to 26.9mph after I stopped pedalling at 20mph. My speeds vary as well as I have mentioned before -- last week I was unable to get past 27mph on power 9 without pedalling -- that was a different road and it was post thunderstorm so some winds --- you guys are starting to make me think that this road that I ride every day is not as flat as I am led to believe -- it is a curving road, but I have talked to others who bike it and they tell me its pretty flat not really any discernible slopes. I'll have to go out again and make sure. As for Miro, with pedalling 31-32mph max? Umm... you need to learn how to pedal or maybe your bike is just not as fast --- I am cruising at about 33-35 miles per hour pedalling/not pedalling with cars on a daily basis on my commute -- mostly depending on whether I want to conserve battery or not -- to keep the bike going at those speeds u do need pretty full throttle on one of the top levels 7-9, but the bike holds the speeds no problem and with strong pedalling I can get it up to 35+, on slopes 40+.

-- I did mention that this bike has a larger crank than your bike -- this gives you the ability to push the bike forward significantly even at 30+ mph. Like I said, I have done 40+ -- I think that this does have an effect

To tell you the truth, this is an internet forum. I don't see how I can personally prove it to you unless I ride out to your house and let you ride it yourself. I was just offering you guys up my review and my numbers, take it or leave it.

Thanks to all the other interesting posts on the site though, I do enjoy reading through them.
 
slacker said:
just my 2 cents but many bike retailers on the net sell the paratrooper for 5-700 dollars.google montague paratrooper.i picked up a montague hummer for 175 off of craigslist which is basically a paratrooper.peace out.

Yes, Google it --- http://www.google.com/search?q=montague+paratrooper&tbm=shop&hl=en&aq=f

Cheapest price is actually $789. cheapest under Google shopping --- not "5-700"....show me a new model thats $500? Also, the regular montague green models and the pro models are different -- look it up specs are upgraded, frames lighter on pro series which are closer to mid $900's. The Hummer is not the paratrooper -- sorry -- this isn't a comparison chart --also on Ebay hummer is selling for $202.50 - paratrooper pro models (swiss bike etc) are around $900.

http://www.zimbio.com/Downhill+and+...Montague+Hummer+Mountain+Bike+Bicycle+Folding

And Sure, you can also get ANYTHING off of Clist randomly for cheap -- doesn't mean A) it exists B) its in good shape C) its a good representation of cost -- considering that it feels like 50% of bikes on clist sold are stolen anyway -- my GF's 1200$ Trek got stolen -- sold for $240.00 on Clist right back to our friend who then proceeded to get the guy arrested --- Is that what the bike is worth now $240? Let's not use Clist as the evaluation of what something should cost, and I think your Google numbers are off as well...follow the link.

I guess you can find practically anything used or in whatever shape, for dirt cheap, fix it up, get a product similar but not the same --- that's all not the point though. I understand that its hard to fathom for people who build this stuff with their hands, that someone pay 4K for a bike that does not do 100mph/fly/act as a battery powered submarine. I got it because I love it, I think it looks great, the parts are top notch US design, and I enjoy having a limited edition bike. I get like 50 compliments a day for the bike, even though most people don't realize it's electric.

Ok no more justifications. New topic. How about Hurricane Irene and the effect on the electric bike industry? Anything....
 
If the EGO was left out, everyone would respect the other guys choice. I'm a dumpster diver, junk hording builder.
Last night my house was full of guys & their wives who own houses, cars and GL1800's that make my stuff look pretty rough. All of them learned what is important in life, several years ago. The last one to learn, is a retired VP of a multi-national. This poor fellow has suffered the most incredible abuse over the years, until he finally figured out what the rest of us value in each other. Respect for the other fellows choices in life. I quit riding a Goldwing 7 years ago. All the others continue to ride. No one laughs at my e-bikes.
Here at ES, it is much more valuable to share our common interest than to find differences to criticize how we zot around on electrons.
 
Hey Gordo,

nice reply and I agree with you -- I too appreciate the fact that this community exists - and would much rather just read about people's experiences than argue about details, prices and all the other non-relevant stuff anyway.
 
So yes
I checked
on every NMH cell in my hub it says GP ,min 10,000 mAh, charging 16 hours/!!!!/.
My personal opinion is that E+ speed can be increased by at least 5mph if powered by non-NMH cells.
First of all 30 cells in series even 5miliohms each - that`s whooping 150miliohms.
A123 20Ah or 15Ah flat cell - 12 cells in series 2mohms/on higher side usually less/ each - that's only 24 miliohms!!!
It is hard to imagine that E+ system would not react to 5 times lower IR of battery.
The worst part of having NMH is charging time of on average 5 hours with lengtly last balancing stage.
E+ is basically one-trip-a day ebike for that reason.
On my TF with LiFePo battery with 1 hour charging time average I can make 2 trips a day easly.
I cannot say that I don`t think about finding way to power E+ on any 36V battery.
It can be easier that you think.
My findings so far are that just like it was mentioned on EMS old forum/now shut down by EMS/ BMS has flash memory which holds programm and unlike on TF software loaded on main BMS chip - PIC18F will not be lost when you disconnect 30 cell string. So good news.
Also there are not 30 balancing wires , there are only 18 balancing wires.
One thing is certain BMS entire or partial must be in communication with motor all the time during power up.
I would love to have another electric technology minded partner E+ owner who will be willing to work with me.
Just to claryfy, on any E+ bike front hub battery is not any prepertary for particular E+, I mean any E+ hub will work with any E+ motor.
E+ hubs are offered for sales by dealers as a spares.
 
I'm pretty good on sleep. Maybe you shouldn't post something completely wrong aka "Look it up on google" -- I did what you said and your numbers were wrong confirming what i had wrote previously --

maybe just push the slacker in you, and add 10 more seconds of thinking/actually looking time before you just post some wrong info.
 
kaysellers,
I don`t quite understand your post, who posted wrong information , what wrong information.
Can we leave topic of speed finally to rest as other suggest?
I`ve never questioned your numbers kaysellers, your numbers are correct on your bicycle I believe you!!!
, you have special version of bike for this or other reasons not important.
Please, leave this thread for others to contribute it will take time for others to notice this thread and hopefully post here.
Have a nice vacation!!!
 
Miro -- I wasn't responding to you -- I was responding to Slacker -- in regards to his previous posts

sorry for the misunderstanding. - I appreciate your input in regards to your E+ and your research into other battery alternatives -- I too would love to make the E+ more than a once per day ride
 
Yes,
I want to keep this thread at the top of subforum for sure , maybe some other E+ owners will notice it.
My NMH hub battery is good for now, but for how long?
For winter I will switch to my old trustfull Tidal Force as a workhorse for daily commute. And winters are severe here with 20-25Celsius below zero.
I mostly use car next day after snowfall and when temperature dips more than minus 10C.
Winter is a time when I going to work on E+ , I have several experiments in mind.
 
Miro - on your e-plus, do you ever feel like the ride begins to power down at times -- i mean like after you've been riding for 30-35 minutes and battery is about 50% or so drained, do you feel like the power9 is not as powerful as beginning? I feel like it still pulls the same, but sometimes it feels different on hills -- at the same time, if I park my bike, with about 50% left and go in to get a coffe, come back, and start riding, then the power seems the same as at 100% -- i might be imagining things as its something i think i notice and at other times i dont at all .....
 
Yes,
I would be surprised if at level 9 or any other level E+ still feel the same after 50%DOD /Depth Of Discharge/ .
Because discharge curve of NMH chemistry is rather bad, voltage sag is really bad on discharge on Nickel comparing with other chemistries.
Example:
in level 1 at batt fresh system draws 120-130W
after just 50% DOD E+ display shows just 80-90W of power draw - means E+ becomes sluggish.
When you look at PDF document cell specs previous page of this thread you see why - look at discharge chart, it is horrible comparing with LiFePo or any other Lithium of any kind. Well, Nickel chemistry what to expect.
It is not if EMS offer Lithium , it should finally go ahead with Universal Battery Connector and offer it on E+.
We E+ owners are already loosers , because UBC for sure require change in software, unless EMS would reprogramm our DISPLAYS/controllers.
For now we are on our own, left with heavy bricks of 9Ah usable capacity and radiclously long charging times.
 
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