E-Bike Tester Hall Sensor Diagnosis

Ezrider_028

10 mW
Joined
May 17, 2023
Messages
24
Location
Illinois
I have my hub motor often struggling to take off, and even it it takes off when pressing the throttle to say more than 800w (based on SW900), it jolts and the controller cuts current then it resumes. .

When I use the e-bike tester the Green Hall connection remains on all the time (see pic), outside of this observation the other test are successful. .

Based on this test result on the Green Hall light staying on, --Does anyone know if I need to replace the Green Hall Sensor ?

Thanks,

EZrider

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Here is how to test for a defective hall sensor.

 
I think this says it best...

"If one of the hall’s voltage doesn’t switch, then you either have an issue with the wiring for that hall or an issue with the actual hall itself."

Regards,
T.C.
 
You did spin the wheel backwards to test didn't you? Spinning a geared hub forwards won't turn the motor ( internal freewheel ). If the motor isn't turned, the magnets won't be moved past the halls & no Winky blink.

AussieRider
 
Thanks everyone - just an update I ended opening up the motor. Invested in a 3 jaw gear puller. I did find that after continuity testing it was the red power cable that somehow broke and I had to solder it. However that was not the end of my woes, upon opening the motor it was rust galore and found magnets became unglued and were stuck to the stator and 5 magnets were broken.

So this is where I’m at, so far had no luck in finding the exact same magnets. Meaning im trying to find the type Voilamart uses - I learned not all magnets are the same. I asked Voilamart support but they are useless, can’t get a response from them.

I’ve been asked if they are block magnets, are they Neodymium N52? Etc. I have no clue.

All I know is the size 24 x 12.5 x 1.8 mm.

If anyone knows where I can get Voilamart replacement magnets, please share.
 
Finding those exact magnets is going to be challenging. If the broken ones didn't get chewed up too much, it is possible to glue them back to the rotor. The pieces will repel each other strongly, so you would need some kind of clamping arrangement to keep them in place while the glue is curing. If there are small chips missing, it won't affect the motor performance noticeably.
 
3 jaw puller is nice to have and can be found for cheap but not a necessity.

If your really careful and a bit of an acrobat you can pop the stator out of a hub motor. I undo the cover plate, lay the axle of the hub of a soft material and push the stator out. The trick is to break the magnetic attraction, thats the acrobatic part but it doesnt take long to learn.

Rust can be cleaned out and you can use

Magnet replacement - I would find the right dimensions and go Neodymium off ebay and try it out. See what happens. Epoxy and clamp it.
 
3 jaw puller is nice to have and can be found for cheap but not a necessity.

If your really careful and a bit of an acrobat you can pop the stator out of a hub motor. I undo the cover plate, lay the axle of the hub of a soft material and push the stator out. The trick is to break the magnetic attraction, thats the acrobatic part but it doesnt take long to learn.

Rust can be cleaned out and you can use

Magnet replacement - I would find the right dimensions and go Neodymium off ebay and try it out. See what happens. Epoxy and clamp it.
Thank you Calab, I ordered the spray on from Amazon and have JB high temperature weld to ra-attach the magnets. Was unable to find the exact magnet size dimensions on eBay so need to custom order. So will se how it goes.
 
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