Hello all,
Some interesting builds happening here, great to see the diversity in what everyone comes up with. More in the works coming soon. I have heard some of your feedback, I will now include an allen stub that can be chucked up into a drill so the panels can be removed quickly. Using this method I can easily get the panels off in about 20 seconds.
I will also include a couple other allen keys for the other included hardware, swingarm pivot bolt, shock bolts and the axle retainers. For the shock bolts, I run an 8mm reamer through the tabs after powdercoating, so the bolt should fit through. The sharp edges on the shoulder bolt make it tricky sometimes, I will now just ship the frames with these bolts pre installed to make sure they will fit easily.
The plastic panels do pleat a little between the fasteners, especially if sitting in the sun for a bit and they expand. The aluminum ones fit much better, and would be better if you want to have some sort of seal there.
I have a new Phasor bike in the works, experimenting with a BMC V4S, with some modifications to overcome some of the weaknesses when these motors are pushed to the limits...something I know a little bit about..
The BMC graveyard. (there's a new one in there too for comparison.) When my bike eats BMC motors, it prefers them lightly toasted.
Despite the shortcomings, I like these motors for their lightweight, freewheeling, and good torque. If used within the intended design parameters, they last a long time.
The V4S I am currently using is filled ~ 1/3 with oil, the temperature is measured with a thermistor in the motor. The sensor is immersed in the oil whether spinning or stationary. The Cycle Analyst V3 will back off the power to keep the temp within a safe range.
74V 15Ah battery, 50A controller. ~10AWG wires from controller to windings. I was thinking of doing steel gears and dual keyways, but the one way bearing in the clutch will end up as the weak link, and it is much cheaper to replace a sheared keyway. RockShox suspension. Anodized black aluminum panels. (although not in the picture below) 11-30t 7 speed with 40t sprocket.
Profile Racing cranks - Made in the USA! Uses a heavy duty splined chromoly spindle, and sealed bearings
E-13 bashguard / chainguide - never had a chain come off with this
And yes, the frame is designed to have clearance to run your shifter cables / brake line through these openings like this, just make sure they don't chafe. Also, I have found that 1600mm (std) brake line is sufficient, as opposed to the recommended 2000mm. This might not apply if the frame is more full of batteries, if the line has to route around them.
The main power switch, centronics / balance port and charging port are all hidden underneath the seat area. This also made the wiring much easier on the inside, in this application.
Custom key switch
ebikes.ca dual luminators
Keep an eye out for some more interesting Phasor builds coming soon